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Everything posted by gt5816v

  1. Broken Bones

    Ouch! Did you land on your feet?
  2. Broken Bones

    Tib/fib/ankle from a biking accident. Tib was spiral and nasty. My foot was pointing the wrong direction. Fib was completely separated mid span and jammed against the skin on either side of my calf. Tons of collateral tissue damage. Amazingly they did a closed reduction. The doc said to give up sports completely cause best case I might be able to walk. WTF?!? Guess I showed him That was a long time ago but the atrophy was the worst part indeed. When they took the hip cast off my leg just folded up and I could not straighten it. Eventually I had a walking cast and then a remove able. Prob ~20 weeks of rehab. A friend of mines son had a very similar break recently and they did an open reduction with pins and his recovery time was much faster... I've broken my collar bones a couple of times. My nose, many toes and many fingers. So what happened to you Porter, sorry I missed it
  3. [TR] The Witch - Igor Unchained 9/6/2007

    Very cool! Thanks!
  4. Fall Gear Closet Cleaning Sale

    Aye, thanks.
  5. New Red Rocks Guidebook

    Just ordered it. Thanks Bill
  6. Portland area Thursday?

    Wish I could this week. I'm in the middle of re-doing my deck and it's going to rain thurs/fri!!!!! Saturday I will climb dammit!
  7. Fall Gear Closet Cleaning Sale

    What condition are the link cams in? If good I'll take the #2 possibly the #1 as well.
  8. Red Rocks - Sept 25th to Sept 28th

    damnit all. I just default to one of these: when the going get's tough. Ask Dan F about us trying to get up Tai Stick...
  9. I forgot my copy a few weeks ago and picked one up at Redpoint on the way. The guy was nice and gave me a $5 discount for being dumb. So I only paid $25 for this book. It's the same as my old book except without the coffee stains and dirt. Not sure if the new edition is out yet or not but this ain't it. $15
  10. Since nobody is interested in the new copy maybe someone wants my old, stained, dirty, torn and worn copy instead?
  11. adjustable daisies

    That's some manky looking FP! From Steins Pillar?
  12. climbing partner in pdx

    Gotcha, well that rules me out Bill.. I wasn't sure if he meant this kind of strong: Or this kind:
  13. Trip: Vinales Cuba - Various Date: 9/5/2007 Trip Report: So this trip all started because my girlfriend has always wanted to go to Cuba. Whether you like their politics or not it's a wonderful place with some really great people. So for her birthday I surprised her with the trip and let her pick out the areas she wanted to go. My only stipulation was that I get to spend a couple of days climbing while we were there. Climbing in Cuba is not very well known although it started in the early 90s. Cubans are very practical people and climbing is a rather esoteric thing to do so it took some foreign involvement to get things going. The place to go in Cuba is Vinales. It's about 180km West of Havana with mostly perfect roads leading there. The walls aren't huge by any means but they are vast. The limestone mogotes make up the valley and provide so many walls for climbing you could spend months there. It's referred to as a mini Yosemite... If you're looking to put up some FAs this is somewhere you might want to go. Vinales is a small town of farmers and they are no stranger to tourists. There are literally a couple hundred casa particulars to stay in there along with a couple of hotels. I had heard of one casa that catered to climbers and was highly recommended everywhere I could find info so I set my sites on that. We arrived at Oscars door step and got no answer so we dropped our gear and expected to have a bit of a wait but within a few minutes Oscars wife found us and brought us in. Our room was on the 2nd floor and had a great view of the mogotes. We unpacked our gear and went downstairs to find some food. There were a couple of guys from Denmark there so we talked about climbs and they had just been out to an area that morning and really recommended it. So after a nice home cooked meal at the casa and a few cervasas we hit the sack. Day one we got up at 6:30 ate and set out for the cliffs. It was only a 2km walk but we managed to get lost and eventually had to come back to the casa and get more directions. On our second attempt we found our crag, Esenada De Raul. Named after the farmer Raul who owned particular area and had a small private tobacco field at the base of the crags. We solicited a local kid to show us the way through the farm. There we met Raul, he was super nice and offered us pinas, cigars, honey and many more things he grew on his farm. We assured him we'd come back after climbing and set off for the wall. We bush whacked up the hillside to a small hanging valley that made up Ensenada De Raul. The climbs were all 5.8-10a and all within 5 minutes of each other. I started out on a long single pitch 5.8. Never having climbed limestone it was an interesting experience. So many fragile features I was constantly expecting things to snap off and send me on a whipper. Interestingly enough it's very difficult for Cubans to get climbing gear and it's way too expensive for them to buy anyway so almost everything they have is donated. Most everything is bolted, even cracks because they simply do not have trad racks and the folks putting up the routes wanted the locals to be able to climb after they left so it's all bolted. I was expecting run outs and sketchy gear but the bolts are almost always very closely spaced and 3/8ths or better. The only issue I noticed were the anchors. Very few were equalized and almost none have rap rings or rap hangers. Bring leaver biners or webbing and rings! The other things I expected were the climbs to be a little stiff for the ratings since it's mostly pro climbers going there to put these up. It's not exactly a on the way to anywhere so not many wankers like me go there. I felt the climbs were a little softer than rated. But then again they've seen so few ascents all the little nubs and features are still there. We moved over to a shorter wall with 3 5.8s on it and blasted up the right hand route climbing up roots, flakes pockets etc.. On the rappel I pendulum'd over two routes to the left and clipped the 2nd bolt since the first hanger was missing. The middle route was missing the 2nd and 3rdd hanger but shared the anchor with the left route. I had contacted Metolious trying to get them to donate some hangers for us to take but things didn't work out. It's a shame because they could have used them! By this point we were out of water and drenched in sweat so we bailed. On the way out we stopped and bought a couple pinas and Raul chopped one up for us to eat there. That really hit the spot and we headed back to the casa and gave our hosts the pinas. It's very hot and humid!! Day two we got up at 6:30 and my girlfriend was sick. So after determining that she would survive I talked one of the Danish guys into going climbing with me. We hiked up there said hi to Raul and warmed up on the 5.8 wall then went into the jungle to try a new wall with some 5.8s and 5.9s. The wall was slightly overhung but the features so numerous the climbing was fun. On the second route it started pouring. The rock stayed dry though and I topped out set the anchor and rapped off. Morten zoomed up it and then we moved over to a 5.9. The rain was really coming down and towards the top the rock was getting wet. I hung for a minute shook off the pump and tackled the last of the climb. Rapped off in the pouring rain cleaned the route and packed up the gear. By the time we were back in the valley the sun had returned. We were shipping off to a small island for some R&R that afternoon so that wrapped up the climbing portion of the trip. Gear Notes: 10-15 draws and a 60m rope. There are a few trad climbs but I don't think it warrants hauling the gear for how few there are. Some of the multi-pitch overhung will leave you dangling in space if you don't have a tag line. So you may want a second rope.. Approach Notes: See Oscar, he has maps of the area with climbs listed. www.cubaclimbing.com has a lot of info on the area and further local contact info. Best place to stay in Vinales: Oscar Jaime Rodriguez Calle Adela Azcuy #43 Vinales Pinar Del Rio Phone: 793381 leydisbel0410610@yahoo.es (this is his daughters email in Havana but she can relay and requests to Oscar) It's $20 CUCs per night, meals are $3 and beers are $1. If you need any first hand info on the climbing or just traveling to Cuba feel free to email me at joshuajmurray@gmail.com
  14. climbing partner in pdx

    Define strong please?
  15. Blackwater

    The military turns out all kinds of technically trained people; doctors, lawyers, pilots etc..
  16. Smith 17, 18, 19 (mon, tue, wed)

    Damn! Wish I could...
  17. Broughton on Sat?

    I think I'll be out there most of the day if anyone wants to meet up I'm going to spend part of the day practicing aiding but other than that I'm open for whatever..
  18. New instant, super water filter

    I'd rather keep the debris in there too. Makes for a more impressive infection later on....
  19. Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

    I dunno but if it is dry I'll head over this afternoon. Anyone else?
  20. New to Bellingham

    I was just up there last weekend. Went bouldering at Larabee..
  21. Passive pro and other things

    $50 shipped to 97123 for the hexes? =)
  22. Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

    Thursday night a go for RB? I'll skip out of work early if so =)
  23. name that route

    Really? Felt easier than that.. Well it's fun either way and very exposed! Thanks!