gt5816v

Anyone heading out to portland's yoesmite this week?

Yeah, weren't you at that place the other day?

Sounds like you all have been having fun while I was in Cuba.. but I'm back now and imigration didn't even try and stop me I'm pulling my house together this week, going to Smith this weekend and hope to make it out to RB one night next week. BTW Bill it's Joshua I'll try and whip up a TR on the climbing in Cuba tonight too..

Yeah, I don't think I'd advocate the use of a bike helmet for climbing either. Just saying the the helmet falling apart from an impact isn't necessarily a bad thing. I use BD hafldome for caving and climbing so I smack it into stuff all the time!

Yikes! I broke my tib , fib and ankle in a bike accident and that hurt like hell. Cant imagine what that must have been like for her! Amazed she survived. You really push the safety stuff Bill but it's obviously for a good reason! I'll see you out there when I get back in town

Great song.. I can't see how it saves any space?!? Can't you stuff things into a regular helmet in your pack? If anything I'd think that would take up more space.. I'm sure it's safe and all though. Look at bicycle helmets. If you use one in a crash you toss it and get a new one. That's the price of light weight. Not to mention the helmet deteriorating during impact is distributing and absorbing the force.

Thanks Bill! I should have also mentioned that I'll be in Cuba until the 26th of this month. Only two days of climbing there though.. Better than nothing

Damn, thought I could slip that one past you....

I'm looking for a steady partner to climb with in the PDX area. Broughton, Rocky, Beacon, etc.. I climb with my GF now but she's not really into multipitch routes and I can really only get away with having her as a belay monkey for so long before she gets fed up with me. I have a pretty decent rack for trad and aid climbing. I've been climbing for about 15 years yet I'm still no good at it.... but then again for the past 5 years I've only gotten out a couple times a season. This year I've been shaking off the cobwebs and can lead 5.9s trad, perhaps easy 10s sport. I've been better in the past so I'm not a total loss... I would really like to be leading trad 11s at some point. I want to climb the Nose and think it'd be a lot more enjoyable (and faster) to free the majority of it! I have a standard 8-5 job and cycle commute. I live by St Vincent's so it's tough to over to the crags on week nights but weekends are no problem. Happy to pay for gas/rentals on trips to Smith, Leavenworth, the Valley, etc.. I also like sunsets and long walks on the beach. So if you have some skills and want to show me what's up that's great but I'd be happy with someone of equal skill that's just willing to get out and climb on a regular basis!

Is that to protect against this? 627268372642109932

Don, that's awesome!

I went there like 10 years ago to check it out. I remember it looked pretty gnarly.... But there was a visible anchor on the uphill side (IIRC) with some slings on it.

BD Micros C3s Not on sale but cheap C4s

That's such an arrogant thing to say Bill.........

Nice pictures, looks like fun!

If you have any specific questions post up or shoot me a PM.

I've never gotten the impression of arrogance but then again Mark might be joking and I'm too dim to recognize it.....

I'll give her a go next time I'm out there then. Thanks!

So I was going to climb it Sunday morning but after peering off of the diving board at last light on Saturday I was pretty sure most of the bolt hangers were missing on the bolt ladder. Could've been the poor lighting but I did see a few hangers... I talked to one of guys at Red Point first thing Sunday and he said the 2nd bolt was chopped for sure but that's all he knew. Anyone got any beta on this? THanks!

Nice, I think that is my favorite climb. Can't believe it's been 12-13 years since I've been up it.... damn!

My Asolo AFS EVOs gnaw up my heals on the ascent. Otherwise they are fine. I'm sure a set of Intuitions will fix it.

Nice! I've been rained off that wall every single time I've tried OS!

I have always used leather boots. This year I got some Asolo AFS Evos. They are super warm and offer tons of support. If you check out my trip report on Thielsen you'll see the bad.. The liner in the those EVOs just chews up my feet! Had the same problem on hood.. Some Intuition liners are in my future!! I wanted a boot for alpine and ice climbing. I don't think there is one boot that will do it all though.. I might get a set of the Trangos for summer alpine.

I didn't see any bolts but there was a sling in good condition. I could have easily missed bolts given the conditions though. I was really shocked how long it took us but we were f'n around with mole skins and gearing up and down with the weather changes. I guess I better learn how to use my BC skis....

Trip: MT Thielsen - Classic Route Date: 6/9/2007 Trip Report: My buddy Zak and I arrived at the trail head at 10am after seeing a black bear run across the road. Book said 4-6 hours up and back... The weather was overcast but the summit was visible as we hit the trail. Hoofed it up to the PCT intersection with a few sections of snow covered trail. It's every bit of 4 miles in my estimation , different books call out 3-4 miles. Weather started moving in as we got on the climbers trail. Not much snow on the way up, glad I brought axes, pons, rope, screws, etc.. Clouds descended, visibility was 50-100ft and it started misting. We hit the summit spire at 2pm. I looked at it and kicked myself for bringing any gear. If there were some visibility I would have dorked around on some of the other routes but given the conditions I decided to suck up my gear mistake, drop the pack and free up the 5.0 route. The summit is so small it was kinda spooky in the fog. I couldn't see anything but what I was standing on and I knew it dropped probably 500ft onto the south slopes... Scrambled back down picked up my anchor and proceeded down the ridge. Gained the trail and slogged back to the trail head. By 6pm we were back on the road and then another black bear ran across. Then :brew: Gear Notes: I wasn't sure what the conditions would be like higher up so I just brought all my stuff. I'd say for a June and later or possibly even May and later climb no technical gear is needed. Approach Notes: Mosquito's weren't too bad and totally disappeared by the PCT. I'd like to climb this sucker in winter, not sure if the highway is plowed though?