BirdDog

Glissading itself is the cause of many accidents, I can't imagine someone doing it with crampons on. Wow!

My deepest sympathies and condolences to the friends and family. Time does not cure death, it is however a great healer. From what I saw of the family on TV, you are very strong people; I believe in time you will heal. The very best to you in the this most difficult time. Also, my sincerest gratitude to those who participated in the rescue op.

An avy beacon only has a range of about 200 yds. So unless you are with others who have avy beacons they are not much use. A PLB would be better for finding a lost hiker. If you are snowshoeing in avalanche territory you should also have a beacon and at least one partner; and have knowledge of avy avoidance/rescue. Do a search on this site for some interesting info on PLB's.

"Freedom of the Hills" by The Mountaineers Press. Most any climbing store has it, also REI and Borders, Barns & Noble. The Bible of climbing.

runningrat; Not trying to be rude here but I think you are attempiting something stupid. Pysical prowess is no substitute for climbing knowledge or experience. The route to muir can turn into icy white out conditions very quickly, even in summer. Could you have navigated your way down in those conditions? The Muir snowfield does sometimes develop cravasses. Could you rescue one of your buddies from a cravasse with the gear you had? I would say you would be fool hardy to do any mountain snow travel without crampons and ice axe, and the total knowledge of self arrest. Please read a recent post in Mt. Hood Rescue, why not go up... by billcoe. While this peticular event had a happy ending, many do not. Read up on climbing, hypothermia, accidents etc... then make your decision.

Yes, it's a bit silly to compare 14,200 - 17,200 on Denali w/Hood. In my opinion your post was a bit silly. I'm sure it was not your intent to appear that way; however that's the way it came across. If I was stuck up there I would want no one less than Crag Rats, PMR & CMR looking for me. These guys have more collective knowledge about Hood than could be assembled anywhere. I have every confidence the rescuers on site have the best chance of success in this situation. Hopefully all three are together taking care of each other, waiting things out. Best to all invlovled.

OP - You're right, currrent conditions on Hood are similar to those found on Denali, however if you're talking the west buttress the routes are quite different. The north face of Hood is extremely avi prone in these conditions, and has sustained steeper slopes. Also Hood doesn't have fixed lines and 5000 wands. Take a close look at the routes on Hood and think you'll see that no one can blindly push up them in these conditions. You seem to think someone can climb 3000 on Hood in a couple of hours. You state you've been on Denali - Did you go from the ice bowl to high camp (17,200)in a couple of hours? I am sure the rescuers are doing their best. Best of luck to all up there.

As my Dad always said "Being a climber is nothing more than someone putting one foot in front of the other. Being a mountaineer is knowing when to stop climbing and get home safely." Summit fever can be caught by anyone, local or tourist. As far as face to face meetings - I have been stopped by climbing rangers on Rainier on several oocassions. The "meetings" were always courteous and friendly. They were just making sure I was equiped and knew what I was getting into; probably so they didn't have to rescue my sorry ass later.

Northwest Cable News is holding press conference @ 9:00AM. You can watch on the web.

I started climbing in the early 70's. We didn't have sport climbing or gyms, everything was trad. While I have done some sport routes, I prefer trad. I think rapping off and setting bolts for a pinkpoint is nothing more than aid climbing. But who is it hurting? Yea, bolt ladders can be an eyesore; bit it's not like you can see them for miles. When crampons were invented people thought that was cheating. Things change. I don't have tattos or piercings; but that doesn't mean I condem those covered in ink and holes. If it works for them and they're not hurting anyone - so what. Let folks climb in whatever style they want. Live and let live!

I started climbing in the early seventies - read goldline, swami belts and klettersoles. I have done sport routes, but I prefer trad. I feel rapping off and drilling bolts for a pinkpoint is nothing more than aid climbing. Then again when crampons were invented people considered that cheating. Bottom line is differeent strokes for different people. Sport climbing is not hurting anyone. Live and let live!

I have mild asthma, but it have never bothered me at altitiude; in fact I feel way better the higher I go. If you're talking Cascade volcanos, none of them are high enough to really be concerned about HAPE. It can happen on Rainier, but seldom. You will be more prone to AMS (acute mountain sickness). Take time to aclimatize and AMS won't be a problem.

Wow, haven't read the whole thing yet - but defintely interesting. Quite a few years back I ran into some guys on Rainier testing wire swags on pickets. From what I saw they worked well unitl the wire cut into the snow and then levered the picket out. I believe it was SMRC dudes - maybe they could add some insight.

As mattp says, a torch will work. You can get an attachement for the torch that fans out the flame, this way you'll have less chance of burning a hole and you'll get more even heat. A good hair dryer will work too; just don't let you know who see you using her hair dryer.

Absolutely stunning photography! Gorgeous. Thanks for sharing.

Avalanche - your gear is likely on the carbon.