Crillz

Any takers for Tuesday evening 6.23... Weather's looking good.

The approach to the lower Castle Rock routes are some of the most grueling in the 11worth area.

So, I'm looking to try and get out a couple of times mid week - kind of make it a regular thing. I'm not getting a good enough "fix" just climbing on the weekends. I get out of work around 3:30 in Seattle, and can be in Monroe (or meet somewhere else) by 4:45 or so realistically. Flexible on the days. I'm leading low 5.10s (probably belaying 5.16+Rx), but need to get better. Anybody else in similar shoes? Got a job, but still want to climb?

That 2nd floor balcony looks primed for a big group of party animals!

If you're talking about having a cordalette for rock rescue then you should probably take 2 because you'll burn one up setting up your anchor, right? You should take 1 webolette for building your anchor. You should take 1 cordalette for rescue situations. You should take 2 prussiks for jumaring. You should carry enough gear to ensure you have a full rack at the end of the pitch to set up a belay 'cause you never know what pieces you'll need. Oh, make sure you bring at least 6 locking biners. Make sure to bring a half dozen tied runners to rap from - better bring some rap rings for safety too.

Maybe they had JOBS.

I don't think so. The nearest rap station I can remember is to the left about 50' from the ground. A couple bolts with some old tat.

There are more routes than that, but they looked pretty dirty on Sunday. The upper pitch of Magic Fern is even a little crappy. Get someone to scan page 226 out of the book for you.

The 4cast is calling for chance of showers this pm in Index. Any locals care to offer their weather forecast? I was planning on heading that way after work, but would rather not if it looks like rain. Thanks for the info.

Mark, Next time we rope up together, make sure you tell me pre-climb if you rack home-sewn runners. Have fun in Yos e mite!

Learn Morse code and use it with the rope. This way you can have actual conversations with your partner - no confusion this way!

If they're still pushing blocks, I'd say Godzilla is the very limit of being safe. Seriously, last night, you could've been tagged by rock fragments if you were belaying Godzilla. Whoever's cleaning should at least put a sign down low! The LTW is too popular. I don't think it's related (or maybe it is), a good size rock fell from up above the black wall about 9ish. If anyone would have been in its path it would have been lights-out.

Some climbs are soft by 2 number grades.

The large climbing group in general just sucks. The groups with one rope and a handful of people taking turns on toprope truly gets to me - this only happens in certain places, but they're the places that you want to hit real quick before heading home or something (Classic Crack in 11worth). As far as the mounties, my run-ins with them have been pretty smooth. Like others have said, they usually gang bang the easier routes, and in some cases it's on garbage that you wouldn't even think about climbing anyway. I guess everyone has to learn somehow... But, after learning a few basics (1 day), why the fuck can't someone just head out with 1 or 2 other bumblies and figure shit out. I agree with whoever said it - If there's a rope up. Pull the thing, and climb on. The few occasions that I've pulled ropes: there was nobody immediately ready to climb, so I just started yarding the rope down, and half-ass told the "group" I was pulling their rope - I didn't ask. You can always offer to drag the rope back up when your 2nd cleans. I have yet to see a fist fight at the crags! Haha.

When you autoblock, it's off the anchor, so yes, if you were to belay from the side, and the 2nd falls, the anchor could shift. If you really wanted to sit away from your anchor, you might be able to re-direct rather than use autoblock. Just do it, use your common sense, and have a few clusterfux and you'll figure out what you do/don't want to do anymore.

Anyone headed to or want to hit Index Thursday afternoon (5/28)? About Me: I can be there around 5 or 5:30, or we could meet in Monroe. I'm pretty comfortable on 5.9s there. Getting into leading more 5.10s there.

Got any wood left that you need taken away? Headed that way this evening.

What's the snow like without an earlier a.m. start? Is it easy walking w/out snow shoes or skis. Is it postholing madness? Chairpeak/Tooth area. Thanks for any info.

Maybe I'm an azzhole, but I hope a few people in my building get the swine, and maybe we'll get a week or so vacation. No better way to not get the flu, then hiding out in the mountains.

It sounds like this climber initially backclipped. The rope doesn't suddenly go from being properly clipped to back-clipped just because of a change in direction. Forget what everyone's saying - you must use lockers for everything or you will die!

Light is right! Wiregates! If your hands are giganto, you may want to play with a couple in the store before you drop a benjamin on new biners.

I believe there's some developed routes up above Squirrley Gates - that trail may have something to do with those.

I agree. I've had some shitty experiences trying to get into Canada. Quick ones that come to mind. 1)I got locked in an interigation room for a couple of hours one time. 2)Wasted at least 2 hours one time, and my buddy got denied entry. "We'll let you in, but he's got to go back." (fuck canada that day - went to Index instead). Top it off, US agents screwed with us on the way back in. "We hassle everyone that doesn't get let into Canada." WTF.

Opinions? I think I need to get a passport, and at the same time my WA driver's license will be expiring soon.

Not sure it would mean much to a lawyer, but don't most guidebooks basically say, don't trust the information in this book because it might be wrong.