bigeo

Belated happy birthday to you. Nice way to celebrate.

Sounds like Stewy put you through the ringer. Nice work getting it done anyway. I have wondered about approaching the N Ridge via Stuart Lake. Sounds like a reasonable way to do it. Mountaineer Crk has never been painless for me, up or down. Thanks for posting.

Thanks for the pics and description of your descent. A couple other questions: What made you decide to descend rather than continuing up? At the first rap point on the ascent did you use the sling upslope from the rappel or the lower rats' nest just around the corner from the drop and how long a rap was it?

Sean, Thanks for your (attempted) report. My partner and I went in to climb Curtis Ridge last Tuesday. We found the approach up to 10k pretty straight forward, but we had a boot track to follow, presumably yours (thanks for that). Nevertheless it was a long day and much warmer than anticipated. We started at 11am from White River Campground and didn't get to our bivy spot at 10k until 8pm. We didn't rally early on Wed. like we should have and by the time we got to the rappel spot it was getting warm and stuff was starting to come down from above so we retreated. If we had the time we would have proceeded to the Gendarme bivy spot and started early on Thursday morning to climb the business part of the route in the early AM before the rockfall kicked in. I'm also curious how you managed the descent.

Nice guys! I'm pretty sure the 8 miles of road would have shut me down.

That first picture is stunning. Thanks for sharing

They're at the last indent with my 43s so 45 is pushing it. If you measure the boot sole length I could give you a better idea. Just heading out for the weekend, so wouldn't be able to ship until Monday, but with USPS priority they would still get to you with plenty of time.

Hey Marc, I've got a pair of 404s. Not sure of the size but with my euro 43 size M11s they are about maxed. $50 + shipping? Could ship them out today. Einar

This help? http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=34322.0

I recommend intervention

For god's sake, somebody stop him

I agree with Tvash. that on terrain that is steep/hard enough to warrant tools you're not going to self-arrest. I disagree that ice tools work fine for that purpose. It is much harder to get the firm grip needed on the head of the tool. A full length ax is a more versatile tool for moderate alpine/glacier climbing, serving as a walking stick and balance point on steeper slopes as well as being useful for plunging and as a "deadman". I like the BD Venom as a hybrid for mixed alpine climbing. The pick angle and bent shaft make it useful for steeper ice and hard snow. The smooth shaft plunges well, while the head is easier to grip than an ice tool for self-arrest. Being lighter and shorter than a standard ax, it is better for carrying on/in the pack when on rock. Mine has the hammer for banging the odd pin or setting a nut, but you can get it with an adze as well.

I've always thought that it's better not to examine too closely some of the emotions that climbing can evoke. And yet, I'm always interested to read the results when others do so. Thanks for articulating something I have felt but chose not to find words for. Selective memory can be a climber's best friend.

I'll say it again Joe: You're a glutton for punishment. Looks like a fun outing in a type 2 kind of way.

Check out the Washinton Alpine Club. I have some great climbing partners who went through their program. I believe they are a tad less "regimented" than the mounties, but I have no personal experience with either org.

Thanks. I thought those pics looked "professional"

Great trip, elegantly chronicled, stunningly photographed. As the father of two adult sons who didn't take to climbing, I read this with a touch of envy. You two are lucky to have each other. Thanks for the inspiring report. Scott, if you wouldn't mind, I'm curious as to what you teach.

Very cool. John Frieh declared this the best route on Rainier in the thread following a recent TR from Ptarmigan Ridge. That, together with your excellent report, and I'm no longer wondering what to do next on the Big R. Thanks.

I also felt that the climbing on Ptarmigan was less interesting and sustained than on Lib. Ridge. Good call on doing the left variation. The 2 move "mixed" crux going right is pretty anticlimactic. And that long rising traverse to Lib. Cap definitely detracts. Still, my second favorite route on Rainier. Beautiful pics. Thanks.

any one had a look at Drury lately?

Yeah, only two parties on the route Sunday. Met two parties heading down as we approached, concerned about avy conditions in the basin under the E face. Gotta say things felt pretty locked down, but there was evidence of wind loading on that aspect. Route is in cruiser cond.

We went up to Alpental instead and approached two different lines (the one to climbers right of Flow Reversal and something on Bryant Butt.) and actually roped up before the warm temps and threatening hang fire caused us to back off. Ended up on the rap wall instead. My concern with Drury was that there would be similar objective hazards, but, with the effort involved in getting to it and the years of anticipation, good judgment might not prevail. Seeing the pics from yesterday, it doesn't look all that hazardous and I wish we had stuck to plan. Anyway, thanks Alex for the pep talk and I do intend to keep Drury in my sights and make it happen this winter if conditions allow.

That's frustrating. Rubber boat is packed in the van, gear assembled, stoke was high, but after waiting for 30+ years to climb Drury, I guess I can wait awhile longer. When it happens, it's gonna be PERFECT. Thanks for the update.

Thanks Alex. What do you think the current warmup does to prospects for climbing Drury tomorrow?

Appreciate the beta. Where did you cross the river?