RJRiha

Comparing Gunks climbs to alpine climbs is a silly exercise at best. I'd be more interested to how they compare to our crag testpieces, specifically routes like Classic Crack, Canary, Godzilla, Deception Crack, etc... I'm personally heading to the Gunks later this year, so I'll be interested in how the routes compare to our crags. If this tool can climb 5.10 at the Gunks though, I can't image they can be TOO sandbagged.... [video:youtube]

Here's an idea for you Josh: Why don't you put Stuart on hold, get some more experience doing some less physically demanding, yet fun peaks until you gain some real experience. THEN you can do Stuart via a much more classic route, such as the west ridge. Then you would enjoy it that much more. Why would you want to bag that peak by such a notoriously bad route anyway? I'll let you in on another reason you have problems getting experienced partners. Your age comes with it a liability. If for some reason, there was an accident, your older, more experienced partner could be held liable. When you're 18, and a full adult in the eyes of the state, this changes. Why don't you spend some time and practice your camping skills and physical fitness? I'm not going to recommend you just go out and go hiking, because you said you've been there/done that. But you obviously haven't honed your backpacking skills, otherwise you wouldn't be slogging a 50+ pound pack up Rainier, or be sleeping on snow without a pad. When you practice your backpacking skills, you'll also be gaining physical fitness, and as your packing skills increase, your new-found fitness will seem tenfold as you'll be lugging lighter packs on stronger legs, propelled by stronger lungs. As others have said, you're throwing yourself at stuff when you don't have the adequate skill-set. Pick something less committing (and less dangerous) than Rainier, or Stuart. If you need a volcano, how about St. Helens (permit might be difficult right now), or even Adams via the South Route (you do know how to self arrest, right?). Or better yet, do one of the trails that goes around the volcanoes, or one of the trails that goes all the way through Olympic National Park (these can be quite challenging and quite beautiful). I guarantee your backpacking skills will go through the roof, AND you'll get the added benefit of seeing tons of peaks, or routes that will get you dreaming of future adventures. Good luck, and HEED THE ADVICE GIVEN HERE....nobody wants to throw a wrench in you adventures, we just want to see you do these SAFELY.

BBQ the pope looks like a harder one for the grade. This is more due to the bolting rather than the climbing.

The Coast Guard considers rescues as "training exercises" and doesn't really affect the taxpayer anyway. If they weren't out rescuing someone for real, they would be performing fake rescues. It's this stupid idea that some have that, "I'm responsible, I'm not out in the mountains, why should *I* the taxpayer pay for that guy". In reality, that guy usually doesn't pay all that many taxes, and it's generally the guy who smokes, eats like crap and doesn't exercise, and is going to cost Medicare an ass-load when he gets lung disease and diabetes in old age.

No, more states do NOT need this type of legislation. The last thing we need is people dying in the backcountry because they're scared that the cost of rescue will be too spendy. What's next, charging you for fire services when your house burns, or how about a police bill when they respond to a burglar? It's bad enough that ambulance rides cost a damn fortune (the same time the EMTs that operate it are getting paid SHIT).

I was in one of the two parties in front of you, and I take take your comment as somewhat of an insult. That is, considering that we STOPPED rappelling and waited for all 4 of you to get down before we made our second rappel to ensure that we didn't knock any loose rocks down on you.

I disagree with that. I climbed the last 2000 feet of Rainier wearing a down jacket AND a wind shell over it, and that was in the summer and I was STILL a little cold. And that was during the summer....I wasn't the only one doing this either; the wind was good at stealing heat that day.

Sweet trip!!! I attempted this in the 07/08 winter, but the 2" of forecasted snow turned into a 15" overnight dump and the entire place turned into an avalanche death trap.

What kind of climbing are you looking to do? You are right about missing out on some great stuff in the Olys. I wouldn't recommend the rock because it is hard to protect and pretty chossy (with a few exceptions such as the north side of the final summit pitch of Olympus). I'd recommend (for snow climbing): Olympus (definitely not a day trip unless you are hardcore) Deception (again, probably not a day trip) Constance (again, not day trip) Mt. Washington Ellinor is always fun to run up Pershing if you like a little shwacking Jefferson has the best ridge from summit to summit that I've ever been on Angeles The list goes on..... Get the climbers guide to the Olys, and you'll have more stuff than you could do in a lifetime....

I didn't know there was any access issue associated with that place. There are no signs indicating such. And there is evidence of recent climbing (chalk on holds).

I finally ventured out to check out the notorious choss pile known as Chimacum Rock. I was surprised at the pocketed face on the far side of the rock. There were about 6 routes that went up this severely overhanging face on what appeared to be quite solid rock. All routes looked VERY hard (5.12-5.13+?). Does anyone know about these? Looks like someone is pulling hard out here.

Up to 30 feet would be a world record size Burmese. They only get that big when they're captive at zoos and constantly fed a diet of pigs/goats, etc and kept WARM. In the wild, they have to hunt food, and don't grow to be the mammoths that they're capable of. They have been in the Everglades for over a decade now. Those snakes reach their adult size in 5-10 years. IF (and that's a big if) they start reaching their average maximum size, you'll see that average go up to 13-18 feet, depending on sex. They very well may never average larger than they are now though, due to lack of heat. The Everglades averages between 10-20 degrees lower at night than their natural habitat, and 10 degrees lower during the day. Heat is one of the determining factors for growth. Saying that they may reach Jersey is quite a stretch. They need a constant minimum temperature to avoid getting pneumonia (which almost always leads to death). The first freeze would kill every single one of them. The weather today in Atlanta would be enough to do it. They could evolve to withstand lower temperatures, but we won't see it in our lifetime. Besides the Everglades, there are few places in this country that would support large pythons (Hawaii being one of them). If the planet warms to the point that the Eastern seaboard becomes hospitable to Pythons, we have much bigger things to worry about.

Anyone been out to 32/38 this last week? I've been tracking the weather, and it seems like I'll find dry stuff. Anyone know for sure?

If you stay off the ridge proper and stay on the East side of the ridge, it should be pretty cruiser. I did it 2 years ago in very low visibility, and we found our way pretty easily. The only part that may make you think a little is the slope up to A/B/Horses Mouth. There was a monster cornice above that when we were there, and had to cut left up an extremely exposed snow slope. Definitely easiest from Washington to Ellinor. The backside drop off from Washington is either route 11 or 12 (don't have my book handy). That's the easiest, and definitely the fastest route between the two. Up on the ridge is more fun though.

Just got back from enjoying my MLK holiday at 38. Very windy, but the rock was DRY. Did some roped bouldering (gritscone) with 2 newer climbers to stay out of the wind. 46 degrees felt warm after climbing in 25 degree weather at Smith this weekend (weather service said it would be in the 60s!!!!).

WOW is all I can say. The face climbing looks totally reasonable in terms of difficulty and the rock looks absolutely stellar for the range. The crack pitch on the other hand....that looks QUITE tough.

Wow!!! I'd love to see pictures of Ulf's Arete. I'd always considered that route as of a grade much too hard to do on Olympic rock for the mere mortal(due to the choss factor). Is it pretty solid in the crack pitch? How about turning the roof? Has that climb been repeated?

Are you going to climb Community Pillar? That looks like an interesting one.

I talked with one of the guys that put up routes at Elwha Wall, and they know how to access the area once the dam is removed. The only problem is the parking is not nearly as close as it is now and definitely less visible. Looks like there will be worries about cars being broken into. Have you done some climbing at that wall? My only experience there was humbling. That is some HARD climbing. Many routes seemed extremely sandbagged.

Unfortunately, from what I've personally seen, most of the undocumented ascents took place during a heyday in the 80s. Most of the lesser known peaks will have a summit register that has the FA, followed by 1 or more ascents in the 80s, then nothing until the present. Maybe the only way to get some of this info would be to do some of those climbs and take pictures of the registers. For some reason, the 80s seemed to be a popular time to go nab chossy 5th class routes, and there was no internet forum to go report the accomplishment.

Nice Tombstone quote!!!

This seems to be quite common with the guidebook not being accurate. There are several places that I have either climbed or spoken with people who have climbed a peak in question that supposedly has never seen an ascent, only to find either a register or a piece of rap sling. These are mostly chossy 5th class spires that seem to have been fairly popular sometime during the 80s. Many have no obvious record except for evidence at the top of the peaks. Interesting that an Olympus winter ascent is similar, as I was under the impression that it had not been done in the winter. I have somewhat of an interest in seeing the next version of the guidebook become more complete as to what has been climbed. There are numerous small peaks and spires, mostly in the interior of the range that may or may not have been climbed. One in particular, though not in the interior is a large spire just to the south of Bretherton. From across the valley it appears to be 4th or 5th class and VERY difficult to reach (probably best reached by carrying over/rapping down from Bretherton). Who knows whats on that side though, as it may be simply a walkup.

I said "might not". The problem with that approach is the area around Elk Lake and Glacier Meadows is quite steep and could be hazardous for avalanches. If you got a good weather window though, this might not be a problem. There are still places on the hike in that are trivial without snow, that you wouldn't want to fall with snow. That said, there are a few other routes that may be possible in winter when the brush is covered (that would normally be horrendous). Possibilities include: South Fork Hoh to the Valhallas and traverse to Olympus from there (probably not a good route, but would be beautiful), North Fork Quinalt to Low Divide, up the Elwha and over to the Humes (this could present many bad avalanche slopes as well), but my favorite idea would be to take the Bailey range in to the Hoh glacier.

There aren't easy routes there....There is one 5.7 route that is somewhat easy, I think it's called "slappin skeeters". I got up a 5.8 there, but not without flailing around a little bit. It was sandy and dirty though, so feet would slide off little ledges and hands wouldn't quite stick without brushing all the holds. Most routes there tend to be 5.10 and above. I tried a 5.10 on top rope, but it totally shut me down. Definitely the steepest grades I've ever been on. Since Kevin put up a good number of the routes there, I have a feeling he likes to sandbag .

This pirate thing is so played out. We need to bring back some other cool historical figure....how about ninjas?