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denalidave

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Everything posted by denalidave

  1. Absolutely. Step aside Ivan.
  2. E-mail/PM sent.
  3. There's plenty of pins laying all over the place there... I just saw one on the notch the other day that nobody seems to use.
  4. Steve, I've taken enough falls on Sufficiently Breathless to assure you it does take good gear. However, the tricky gear is right off the ground, but even there, you can get in some small nuts, as well as small/micro cams. I'd say it is sustained 10a (IMO).
  5. Besides doing it w a pack, try it w/out a pack but a small dumbell, instead. You can shift the weight from 1 arm to the other, perhaps it may help with your climbing hand, forearm and finger strength? Otherwise, I used to just put some metal weights (40-50 lb)in the pack and let er rip... Go at the pace you plan on hiking at. Or , work up to it, if needed.
  6. BillCoe already cornered the market on aliens...
  7. I'm usually around Beacon a few days a week too, let me know if you want to run up something. Plenty of good options. Dave
  8. OK, I will preface this by admitting I am a lowly simpleton, but it seems the economy is still in free fall, just a matter of time till we ground out. Regardless of all the shenanigans those in power do to line there own pockets (more) along the way. (IMHO)
  9. Shows in yer climbing. That was in the olden days though, now they use plastic credit cards things (I think), which are chock full off all the essential caloric, vitamins & minerals you need to be the ultimate hardman dirtbag.
  10. Nice Curt, but if the avatar that bstach uses does not dissuade someone maybe they deserve what they get?
  11. denalidave

    fucking awesome

    That is funny. I was reading this post when I heard the same story on the radio. Enough is enough... I'd bet he'd been wanting to do it for about 19 years.
  12. Now that's funny too.
  13. My favorite shot from that trip was this one... but you can sift through a shit ton more Here - AK Range for a Day Pics Also, more vids at my YouTube site(s) Dave's You Tube I may have met the east coast guys but only a brief hello so not sure if it was them or not. There was only a few climbers and a few rangers in that early though, so it could well have been them.
  14. Cool video! I was out there at the same time. I think you are camped below me on April 24th. Looks like your tents in this short vid I took. I did not get to climb this trip, just went out to putz around on my skis before starting work up there. I could not resist the perfect bluebird day so I went in for just one night. Glad to see you guys made it up in suffer-fest style! [video:youtube]
  15. That "thin crack" is actually the second pitch of crazy horse. The way Jim puts it is its 5.9 on top rope and 10.a to lead. I agree with Jim on that one...
  16. Or, you could just FREE SOLO up BLOWNOUT , then DOWNCLIMB (FREE SOLO) Jill's . That's how the hardmen roll at Bacon, so I hear, anyway.
  17. You can also rap to snag ledge from the top of the first pitch of Jill's (at the base of the Crazy Horse finger crack - Yosemeti Ledge, not at the top of Tooth Fairy) in one long rap with a 70 meter rope. Be sure to be exactly on the middle of the rope as it BARELY makes it to snag ledge. In fact, you have to come off the end of the 70 meter rope, but you can reach the belay anchor slings on Snag Ledge so it is not at all scary or dangerous (as long as you know it beforehand).
  18. I used to have some powdered milk that was whole milk. Now that it is all gone, I can't find anyone that carries it (though I have not done much research, just checked a few grocery stores). That stuff was waaaayyyy better than the standard non-fat dry milk. BTM (Better than Milk - soy based dried product) is not bad either but I can't remember how it tasted in coffee as it has been years since I used the stuff.
  19. I gave up the real coffee long ago on the trail and just go with the fu-fu instant mixed stuff. No, not quite as good as a latte from you barista, but no hassle. I still use the Stove Top Espresso Gizmo at home or car camping, as well as the battery operated milk whisker from IKEA, I think they are about $2 IKEA Frother The next best thing is a good french press (IMO)... As a matter of fact, I'm slurping a scrumptious latte made with the above tools right now. MMMMMMM, coffee!
  20. Very nice Steph, as usual. Love the night photos.
  21. "BECAUSE THE BEST CLIMBING IN OREGON IS IN WASHINGTON, AT BEACON ROCK".
  22. But no one has said the real reason... "BECAUSE THE BEST CLIMBING IN OREGON IS IN WASHINGTON, AT BEACON ROCK". That is what I have always been told, anyway.
  23. Kenny, I see you seem intent on keeping on a roll here. Hey, the loose rock load just above Grassy Ledges up to the short chimney had built up to a ridiculous level and sending grapefruit size rocks down to the SE Corner's base. Could have been cleaned out or stacked earlier during the pre-open work session, but of course (surprise) it somehow just didn't happen. But what the hell, you just keep at it here, it's so damn productive and helpful. Lucky for us Beatards, we have some outstanding youths in the area that volunteered, without anyone even asking them, to get rid of a bunch of rocks from the top of the Dutchman... Wow, they were even nice enough to throw down some beer cans too, although the beer was mostly gone by the time they sent them down to us climbers. Still, it was a very nice gesture on their part. Good to know we have such fine, outstanding and considered youths looking out for us and making it "safe" for the rest of us...
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