nkane

The arches are high, but they're also sized weird. I normally wear a 9.5ish boot, but got these in an 8.5. That said, I really like them. Considering that they're like half the weight of many plastics, they're very warm and quite sensitive for climbing. They're not even that bad for trail hiking - I wore them for the whole 6 mile approach to the Brothers and my feet were fine. I highly recommend them, if they fit your feet.

I just like to make sure that the biner doesn't get wiggled around and begin to unclip itself by hitting the bolt head, the hanger, or another link of chain. I've gotten to the top of a TR and see one of my draws almost falling off due to having the gate rotated into the side of the hanger. Scary.

Oh man I so agree. I just moved back East and I am so sad to leave all the great climbing in the PNW. You guys don't know how good you have it. I mean, the Gunks are fine, but between the climbing, volcanoes, skiing and the vast undeveloped mountain ranges out there, there should be enough to keep anyone happy for several lifetimes.

I've never seen such bad grammar. If they can't QA their website, what makes you think they'll QA their cams?

Geology question - In this picture, you can see a band of lighter rock on the peaks in the background, just above the glacier. Can any knowledgeable people tell if that's a sign of the recession of the glacier? Is that lighter rock newly exposed to the air and hasn't grown lichen yet? Or is it simply the "high-water mark" of a normal year's snow? Thanks, and great TR!

EdsPans and I have a pair of the yellow ones MarkWebster posted above. I like them ok. I have crappy hearing and they definitely help on windy belays and wandering routes. However there is a certain headache factor as they do tend to turn on in the pack and burn through batteries, so we started reversing a battery when not in use. They're also not that loud, which can be a problem when it's really honking. The weight is also a factor. A fourth complaint, if I may, is that the clip to attach them to yourself is a little funky, and there's nowhere to attach a lanyard. After a disastrous afternoon this winter when the radio fell out of my pocket and got buried in a snowdrift, leaving my partner screaming into a blizzard, we created a sort of duct-tape-webbing harness so it now clips to my harness. All caveats aside, I still use them at the Gunks and for alpine.

Great job! We probably passed you guys on your hike in, our hike out. Looks like you had better weather than us!

If you want a sport day, don't forget about Rumney - great bolt clipping on super-featured schist. Bouldering at Pawtuckaway is also fun, if you're into that. And when you're at Whitehorse, don't forget to walk next door to Cathedral Ledge for some longer, steeper lines.

Build a bonfire, build a bonfire, Put Seaaaatle on the top Put Vancouver in the middle And we'll burn the fucking lot.

Last night I had the rare E-1: injured while packing for the climb.

Anyone want to climb Mt. Hood this week? Only day I can't go is Wednesday. I was thinking Leuthold or Reid, depending on conditions.

Wanna come climb Hood with me?

Anyone want to do Leuthold's or something? Weather dependent of course...

Wow! An explosion of potential partners! I'm booked for this weekend and the 5th-8th, but I am looking for anyone who wants to climb Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday morning. I do ski, and I have AT skis and skins but no AT boots, so I'd have to either score a pair of boots or lug heavy alpine boots for any ski travel. Looking forward to getting out!

I found this interesting article a while back (it may have even been posted here!) - PDF

At the beginning of July, I'm taking leave of these fair shores and moving to New York City. Since I've only lived in Portland for two years, I'm quitting my job as of Friday and taking June off to climb. I'm looking for partners to climb with midweek throughout the month. Goals: -Run up Hood at least one more time -Do something in the Olympics - climbing, backpacking, alpine, whatever. I've never been there and it seems like an awesome place. -Cragging at Smith, French's, Broughton, Ozone (never been there either) -Alpine routes in the ALW, North Cascades Here's me: Here's my rack (it's a little bigger now):

I used one of these on a NOLS trip many a year ago: It's black, and is even lighter than the current version. The main thing is that it has more compression straps, allowing it to be used as a compression stuff sack for you clothes during the approach, and then it's your day pack for a summit attempt. I'd love to get my hands on another one, as my old one was lost in a house fire. Send me a PM. I live in Portland but I will pay for shipping.

5 Gallon Buckets Super Slab Spiderman Rumney: Lies and Propaganda 5.9 War and Peace 5.9 Waimea 5.10c Rose Garden 5.7 Red Rocks: Great Red book 5.8

There's now an action alert on the Access Fund Site. I like the bumpy road to Bulo and would love to see it stay open.

I wanna say they're at like 4500, maybe 4000. Certainly high enough that there will be snow for some time to come.

Thanks everyone! There's some decent advice in here, and people were much nicer than I expected. I only cried maybe 3 or 4 times.

There is still a crapload of snow in the mountains.

Thanks, everyone. Ivan, the reason I didn't rig the anchors with the rope was that we weren't swinging leads, so I would have had dismantle it and leave my second without an anchor when I headed up the next pitch. Hemp, you're exactly right, I did read the Long book. Thanks for the critique. I think I need to spend more time setting up anchors on my kitchen table legs before I head out again. Trogdor, I learned from the Long book, a NOLS course I took many years ago, and climbing with various people over the past few years.

Thanks for the feedback! Winter, in the first picture, I think that picture might make it look like there is more slack in the system than there is, but I will take your advice into account in the future.

Trip: Smith Rock - Moscow, very slowly. Plus, critique my anchors! Date: 4/5/2008 Trip Report: EdsPans and I arrived to an inexplicably empty parking lot at 740am on Saturday. Early morning sun at Smith: After spending a good amount of time racking and turning the top of my pack into a mini-backpack, I started up the first pitch. This was my first climb building natural anchors without the supervision of a crusty mentor, so I'm posting pictures of them so they can be ripped apart by the ravening hounds of CC.com. First anchor: Second anchor: Third anchor. I was the least pleased with this one, since the two top cams are too close together, but this one was the only anchor that actually held bodyweight, as EdsPans discovered that her foot was smaller than the crack and slipped in the offwidth section on this pitch, and it did fine: We ended up topping out after several hours of effort, in which I learned that I need to get faster at rigging anchors. Since we needed to be back in Portland that night, and it was starting to rain, we called it a day. Overall, I found this route a little harder and chossier than what I was expecting. Super Slab and Cinnamon Slab are both Smith 5.6s, and Moscow is definitely a step up in difficulty from them. In particular, the smooth wide fist/forearm crack at the top of the third pitch gave me some trouble. It was still a great route and a fun time, as always. Gear Notes: 2 #4 c-4s would no go unused on the third pitch if you don't like wide stuff. Approach Notes: Walk across the bridge