Reid

A few of my friends and I are wanting to take a short road trip for five days in about a week. We are looking for a climbing destination, but the deal is most of our group consists of less than accomplished climbers (5.6 - 5.8 and pretty new to ice). So some nearby hiking would also be good. Heres our list of ideas and associated concerns/questions. Thanks in advance for any input. -Banff *Easier single pitch routes still in? *Avalanche conditions? -Utah *I've really only heard of Indian Creek. Does quality, easier climbing exist? *I know good hiking exists, but where? *Weather -Yosemite *Any crowds yet? *Weather -Smith / Oregon cascades (fall back plan)

Curb your enthusiasm Especially if you were ever a Seinfeld fan

I'm not sure that Leavenworth is genuine eastern washington - you have trees

This'll be one of the few times i wished i lived in EWa

Anyone know what vantage is like right now? I'm sure the ice has all fallen down, but is there snow on the ground? Would sunshine wall be dry tomorrow? Weather looks tolerable for tomorrow: just as cold as seattle, not much wind, and a little sun.

Gym climbing will nearly always emphasize strength over footwork/technique. Gym routes are also sustained. A 5.6 alpine route of multiple pitches could involve less than 1 pitch of actual 5.6 climbing. The 5.6 moves will be interspersed with segments of rock that may require no handwork at all or at the very least will be far less steep than the 5.6 in the gym. If you were able to climb .9/.10 in the gym I wouldn't be concerned about the physical strength needed to get yourself up a multipitch 5.6 outdoors. Technique and footwork is what will get you through that.

I'm down there most Tuesdays and Thursdays bouldering. I Haven't roped up at SG yet, but I'd like to. PM me if you're interested.

Can anyone explain how they break? I'm having a hard time imagining a groomer being so harsh compared the BC that it could break a binding. Unless you're talking about some spectacular wipeouts by a newbie on hardpack.

If you're questioning the rope's integrity, you already know the answer.

Powerthirst 2

I'm a self taught skier and deep powder is still difficult for me. The upper terrain of alpental after a storm is probably where I've learned best. They never groom that stuff. Sure it gets tracked out, but if you look for it you can always find untracked powder up there. I started skiing with the goal of ski mountaineering and touring in mind. I bought cheap used skis with Silvretta 505 and boots from second ascent. The skis are now thrashed and the boots are a little too big, but you can learn to ski in just about anything. So for now buy something that will work and get out.

Always a primary concern on steep slopes. Sounds like something I'd try to ski only on corn snow.

Really nice photos, thanks for posting. Looks like a fun trip. Also being a shitty skier, I'd like to know how steep/difficult was the skiing?

And apparently May/June is the earliest they'll be able to do this. Really?

Just drive in or are you up for a hike/snowshoe too? Colchuck lake near leavenworth is a real pretty area. Or you can camp down in the canyon just off the road (icicle creek canyon). Little less snow than other places listed so far, but maybe less of a drive.

How many miles of road skiing are required to get to the long's pass trailhead? I think this is the road past salmon la sac that Marko mentioned. I've always thought this would make a nice ski tour; probably the most enjoyable route to stuart if you're on skis.

This pitch? What route on SEWS is that pitch on? It looks rad

Did you climb the thin crack to the left of Penny Lane? 11b fingers with real smeary feet. I think it's called crime of the century. That may have been my favorite of the year. I also really enjoyed Even Steven's at Index.

second ascent is alright, craigslist is probably cheaper

sent ya a PM

I found detergent that makes the same claims sold at Wal-mart for $5. It's aimed at the hunters (no odors or uv brighteners etc) but mentions that it's safe for gore-tex. Right next to it was scotch guard type stuff that worked really well on my ski pants also for $5. The only problem is you gotta go to wal-mart

Just climb at Stone gardens. I'm sure there will be one you can do. Probably next to the v1 you can't get off the ground on. Summer goals: Spend enough time in the mountains that I get hassled at work for either the amount of time I take off or the condition I show up in on Monday mornings.

paddle shifter...

http://www.summitpost.org/article/263578/so-you-want-to-make-a-rope-rug-eh.html

29, I think the lack of morals really helped out