AlpineMonkey

Its taken from the unclimbed route I did on Snow Crk. Wall.

Current N. Face D-Tail.

Sherpa Glacier Ice Cliff Arete Ice Cliff Glacier Girth Pillar NE Face North Ridge (2 times) NW Face NW Face Couloir Stuart Glacier Couloir Razorback Ridge West Ridge Cascadian Couloir I get obssessions with mountains until I've tracked out everything. I'm done with this one for good long while.

Looks good John, thanks for sharing. How many attempts was it total over the years? Thats a damn good time. Last year it took us 9 hours or something. PS, I still have more routes in the bag then you, buddy.

BF sucks. I've been tere once and dont plan on going back.

Enjoyed the beautiful weather on Saturday. I have also done the route several times before and found it hard to believe there was real ice. There was about 15 feet or so of good, solid alpine like ice just below the picture where the couloir bottle necked down. It was an unexpected, fun suprise. I'm finding myself less ambitious and more caring toward other things in life. Spending time with people who I care about and enjoy being around, climbing for the enjoyment of climbing, rather then for other reasons.

Actually thats my lady carrying everything for me.

Sounds like good fun. I've wanted to do a few of those routes for a while. Maybe I'll have to go check them out next week. Thanks for the report.

Trip: Colchuck Peak - All To Ourvselves Date: 5/6/2007 Trip Report: These days I find myself spending lots of time with my new “main” climbing partner. As I reflect on the past few years, I am finding that my interests and views are changing. I find myself now looking for quality. TR STARTS HERE: (N. Face Dragontail looks super good right now) This was a trip of changing minds. With our hearts set on the NE Couloir of Dragontail, after seeing that awesome TR posted last week, Denise and I set out on bikes up the Colchuck lake road at 3:30 in the morning. We ended up pushing them most of the way. The mudslide hasn’t even been scratched and the road definitely will not be open on schedule. We topped out at the lake at first light, and decided on climbing the NE Couloir on Colchuck Peak instead, a route I haven’t done before. However, ended up doing the NBC route due to a large cornice on the top. We found perfect conditions and both had a blast. It seemed so odd to have a normally popular, overcrowded area all to ourselves. Not one other person in the entire basin. The Route: The lake is still walkable: Self Portrait: We actually found a little ice: Fun climbing, great weather. Summit Shots. A big mean bear. Gear Notes: nothing Approach Notes: Bikes, road will not be open next week as planned.

Same, carried tennis up. Walk down was quick and easy. The only reason why we walked down was because on pitch 5 it started dumping buckets of rain on us. Thus my rainbow picture. I would have rapped down otherwise, but didn't want to do it in a rain storm. Based on what you said catbird, the rap doesent sound all that great? Would you not recomend it? How long did it take to rap?

We walked down the gully, 1 rap, no problems.

Well said catbirdseat. Yeah, I skipped a few here and there. We were short some, by mistake. I can't tell from what you said if you liked the route or no? I had lots of fun on it.

That looks fantastic.

Kat, I'll name them in a day or two. I'm on the W. side and all my records are in E-burg.

How many hours round trip did it take you guys. I'm thinking about running up there and doing it on my way to Seattle this weekend. I have wanted to go up that for a couple years now. -Craig

Sobo, Pitch 5 is the worst, the first bolt being about 20 feet off the belay over crumbly loose rock, but it is short. I think its stupid how a bolt wasen't put down lower. Someone is going to fall someday through no falt of their own when their feet and hand holds crumble away and get completly F-ed up. That pitch I have shown with the caption, "Fun Exposure." Other then that crapy section, all is good. They call the crux being up high, a 5.9 crack, but that is most definatly not the crux. I found the crux being on pitch 1 or 2, and the crack I would rate a 5.8-.

I don't trust bolts... I usually bring two with me to areas that I haven't been to before, but they also work nice as draws. The route calls for 15 draws, we had 8 or 9, so I was using whatever I brought.

One or two weeks ago I predicted this climb would not be in again until the next ice age. Way to prove me wrong. Looks like you guys had fun.

Trip: Goose Egg Mountain - Ride The Lightning Date: 4/22/2007 Trip Report: *A Snow Creek Wall Alternative* With rain in the forecast, my girlfriend and I decided to scratch our Leavenworth climbing plans and head to Tieton. Goose Egg Mountain, a place I have long wanted to explore seemed to seize our imaginations. The few who have found adventure on this wall have told me stories of ok routes on poor rock. Route climbs under and around the obvious roof in the lower right corner. We ended up climbing “Ride The Lightening,” a grade III, 5.9 route. The approach took approximately 15 minutes from the car to the base of the clib. The Tieton River Rocks guide gives the route a PG-rating, but I didn’t find anything to be extreme. We found excellent climbing and the rock really wasn’t all that bad. Every belay is fixed with “bomber” bolts. The wall is comparable in height to the snow creek wall and the views are definitely better. 8 pitches. Looking down pitch 2. Crimpy face climbing. Looking down pitch 3, showing the beautiful and classic dihedral. Amazing climbing. A happy one. Fun exposure. A pleasent supprise. My eyes kept on eye balling... In the end, we had an amazing time and I can’t wait to go back and experience more routes. It is an excellent alternative to the Snow Creek Wall. Gear Notes: 10 quick draws, pro to 4 inches. Approach Notes: 15 minutes car to route.

Suckbm in first Couloir. Suckbm belaying just before I fell. Kurt Hicks, Suckbm, and LittleGorilla, and I think the 4th is Pup On the Mountain Entering the white out. On descent it was a complete white out, couldnt tell the ground from air at times.

Suckbm and I tried to do the runnels and I took a 20 foot fall out of them. Fell about 8 feet vertical and then found myself upside down on my back. I slid upsidedown, down the ice for the remainder of the ride. Had one picket blow, and another that I placed in sugar snow hold. We came back down and then did the variation. Good to meet up with all of you and it was fun climbing together. I don't have too many picks but pm me your email and I'll get all of you pics. Plus I would like some too. -Craig

That was the brand of my poles, Leki Makalu or something.

Just because I leave poles next to my car doesent mean there up for grabs. Karma told me that next time your crossing a sketch stream they will colapse and you will fall in head first. Whoever you may be.

have to write a paper, getting out tomorrow though

I have a brand new, never been used Charlet Moser ice axe, with the tags still on it. Its length is 52 cm. Click here for reviews. If anyone is interested send me a pm. I'm asking for $60 and I will pay shipping. The ice axe retails for $140. -Craig