AlpineMonkey

Fugs was in great condition wasen't it?! Did you guys make the treck over to Running Gear, it looked really big from the road when we were there last Wednesday. Frenchman looks a lot better from a week ago, but still needs some time it looks like from your pics. Good climbing. It got warm on this side of the mountains today, hopefully things stay in condition for a little while longer. Did any of those drips to the left or right of Frenchman look climbable?

You and Scott should go there. 1 hour and 15 min drive out of the burg. You can practically drive to the base of the climb, 5 - 10 minute approaches. Good and short, moderate to easy routes for you two to practice on. It would be a good place for a first lead.

Today my girlfriend, suckbm, and I decided to find some ice. The approach was a five minute uphill walk wich left me gasping for air, seriously. The crux was getting through a barb wire fence while suckbm tried to grop me. We found some undocumented ice to the right of the "Beer" routes. We first climbed the middle route, which we named "Pink Panty Dropper," 35 feet tall, WI 3. Then the route to the right, which we named "Gummy Bear Martini." 25 feet tall, WI 3. We were going to climb the far left one as well, but I walked to the base and the top out was only 6 feet above my head. Perhaps Capallini would find it a significantly tall climb. The FA is up for grabs. We then trecked over to the far left of the Beer routes and found a climb wich to our knowledge had not been climbed. We followed foot prints to the base of the climb and topped out to some fresh webbing. It was an excellent climb though. I really wanted to do Bavarian Dark, but it was to chandeliered for me. Lastly, we climbed Sody Pop which was in great condition, Rainier Light was not in, it could be climbed but you would just bash your picks up. My little darling.

It is, who might this be?

Anyone have any updates on this neck of the desert? Are the Beer routes looking good? I really want to climb Bavavarian Dark.

If your looking for some ice this weekened, you can find some at Vantage. Climbed Fugs yesterday, the most in shape I have ever seen it, with suckbm and my girlfriend. Runnging Gear Death Falls is in and fat. Frenchman might be in by the weekend.

Lead up past the crux which was very steep and set up a hanging belay. My partner, suckbm climbed up to my belay, and just past the belay his tools blew out. He took a fall directly onto me and my belay and also droped one of his leashless tools. He then started yelling, "fuck climbing leashless, fuck french canadians, fuck, fuck, fuck..." We were past the hardspot, WI 5 max and all that we had left was a few meters of WI 4- or 3 left. We were 3/4 up the climb. We were both really dissapointed as we both thought the climb was finished. We ended up bailing off a single screw, suckbm could go no higer with a mono tool. We then, or more like me got drunk for the hike out. Guess we'll have to go back for this one.

Jens, I don't know how you plan on getting in there, but we've been doing it on foot. No snow machines. When we were getting many of the climbs done, we had punched in a good trail which allowed us to get to the climbs relativly quick (2 hours of solid uphill walking). With the new snow I would perdict 3 or more hours of walking to get to the climbs. 1 hour of walking on a road and 2 or more hours of breaking trail. And, we know a very good way to get there, having been there many times. If its your first time going in there it could be a real bitch, getting lost and postholing in snowshoes in the woods all day. As far as it being good or not, it depends on the season. This season its the best thing since bread. There are so many climbs all really close to each other and there all in. I've been there on some occasions when nothing was in hardly and yes, then it did suck. Perhaps thats why you've only heard really good and bad things, because Strobach is eaither in or its not, there is no inbetween. We've been driving from eburg so the drive time is quick for us too.

We snowshoe in everytime. Get off your and get some exercise.

Went and checked out the other area's too, but haven't gotten time to climb them yet. I have photo's, but we didn't do any climbing. We'll get over there eventually, maybe next year. Yeah, I'll email the pages to you, but I want to make a few changes first.

While many of you have been banging up your picks at Banks, we've been exploring Strobach Mountain. Supper fat ice and beautiful views are what this place has to offer. Below are my notes on the climbs. Hope some of you enjoy, perhaps it will inspire you to visit. (Note, the letters for unclimbed lines do not corespond with the letters in the WA Ice book, they are letters that I have assigned for my personal notes.) Also, what I have labeled as first on the right is acutally first on the left.

Can you post Microsoft Word attachments on here. I made a word document summarizing all of the ice climbs in the Motherload area which some may be interested in.

Found someone for tomorrow, but if anyone wants to get out on monday give me a call please. (Only people I know please)

Going back tomorrow. Would be willing to go back again on Monday if anyone wants to go with me. Give me a call, I posted my phone number in the climbing partners section.

I need a partner for tomorrow or anytime this week. Please only people that I have met or know. If anyone wants to get out give me a call. I can meet you anywhere. I mostly want to go to Strobach. The climbs are fantasticly fat right now, never seen them so good. I don't have acess to a computer anymore so if you want to hook up you need to call me, not email or pm or post on here. Craig 425-691-0090

One week ago my partner and I attempted the unnamed and unclimbed Strobach D on page 220 of the WA Ice book. The begining of the climb begins with a 25 foot free hanging ice curtin, aprroximatly 95 degrees. While attempting the route a loud bang, like a gunshot came from the curtin and a fracture line appeared. I bailed. We returned one week later (12/29/06) to find the hanging ice in a little better condition, resulting in the FA of a fine route. Name/Difficulty: Tower of Power - WI 5 FA: 12/29/06 Length: 50 meters Avalanche Danger: Moderate Approach: The right most flow in the Motherlode Area Route: Ascend the 25 foot 95 degree free hanging curtin leading to moderate ice climbing above Descent: Rappel the route

Thanks people need to post more ice info. Im not sure why I posted this in the Alpine Lakes, if a moderator could please move it to the ice section that would be sweet.

Was able to do Sody Pop: And Rainer Light today: Please, please, please post where you all have been climbing. Any new updates to whats in etc. for Washington. -Craig

Here are some pics from the 22nd. Showing the fatness, all the named climbs are in, many of the unclimbed lines are also in: Climbing Sudden Change of Plan. We also climbed Ice Dreams.

I've got several pm's asking about the approach. We drove to the base of FS 1202 and then walked the entire road. The road was groomed, I assume for xc skiers. We then bushwaked to the base of the cliffs. Our trail would have been covered up by the recent snow.

After trying an unclimbed line and almost having a few tons of ice come falling down ontop of me and my belayer, when the entire pillar fractured, we had a sudden change of plans and went and climbed the route (Sudden Change of Plans). I'm not going to post pictures, but everthing is in now and supper fat. All the ice seems thincker then the pictures in the book. Dropline can be climbed if your a hard ass, as well as many of the other unclimbed lines.

Whats the science behind free standing ice pillars? Are warmer weather conditions better then colder? Any special techniques. Anything to consider. I was trying a route this weekend and the begining had a 12 foot in diameter and 15 feet high free standing pillar. While trying it there was a loud bang like a gun shot and a horizontal crack went through the entire pillar. I carefully got off the thing. Once ice fractures does it heal or is it done for the rest of the season?

Any recent updates for Vantage. I was wondering if maybe the flows to the left and right of Frenchman have come in?

Who gives a shit if it was climbed by Bill or anyone else for that matter. The point is, its a nice fun little wall which is not documented in the WA Ice book. The name dosent matter, it should just be documented so if there is a future publication it can be included. That way the book is more complete. Call it Ice Climb A because its the first one you get to. Location: Quincy Name: Ice Climb A FA: Unknown Difficulty: WI 3/4 Description: 65 or so feet high, top out and belay from top, short walk east to descend, acess from parking lot 1, located above (such and such) lake