Argus

Trip: Darrington - Pabst Smear - FA Date: 12/12/2009 Trip Report: David Whitelaw and I went out looking for some ice in the Darrington area on Saturday. We drove up the Clear Creek road and found a flow coming down the Asbestos Creek drainage. The 50 yard approach ensured that this would be the route we would be climbing. The lower part of the route from the road. The climb continues up and left out of view in the picture. When Dave pulled out his puffy jacket that was older than me, the route name was born. The route has some lower angle ice to begin with that we solo'd, then steeper steps in the WI2+ range. We roped up at one of the steeper bits and climbed 5 roped pitchs. We decided to descend after that due to the fact that the next curtain we would have to climb had a significant amount of water running behind it. We hadn't exactly gotten an alpine start and didn't expect to find that much ice up there. The water flow was definitely increasing as the day went on. Most likely there would be quite a bit more ice above where we turned around. We made 4 full length double rope rappels and walked the brutal 50 yards back to the car. This was definitely a fun mellow day out. The ice was nice and it actually took good screws. It's probably very rare for this to even form and even rarer to be able to drive to the base of it in December. We definitely felt like we scored. Gear - 6 screws, double ropes. Some lower angle ice on the bottom of the route. Cool Grotto.

A 15 footer on a purple Metolious sounds pretty big to me.

This is the boulder you're looking for. Slab Daddy Stoke

The ledge at the top of pitch 11 is big enough for a few people. Check out the topo on the previous page.

Snow free. Even the snowfield at the base of Liberty Crack is gone now.

I've climbed on the one at Montana State before. The one they have is sweet. It is totally motorized, so it automatically changes speed and angle. You just program what you want your route to look like it goes from there.

Here it is: Crossover Descent

Can't resist.

Eraserhead 11b and Imagine Your Best Student Here 11a on Private Idaho are now clean as well.

I looked at Beckey's topo again and the 5.9+ section is after the foot traverse section. I doesn't really show the chimney at the the traverse, so we assumed we were at what he calls the pitch 5 belay. Either way, still a fun climb.

My guess it would need a little work. I bet there is some lichen on it, but that comes off quite easily.

Nice Tr. Here's a couple of pics I snapped of you on Saturday.

At the top (2nd pitch) of Magic Fern??

So are there anchors on Wet Dream? I never saw any when I rapped it.

Have at it. If I recall correctly, there is no anchor on this climb and it requires a bit of schwacking to get to the top of the cliff.

I assume you're talking about Wet Dream. I cleaned this route 2 years ago only to find ferns and blackberries growing out of it 2 months later. I have never seen it dry, so it's probably not worth the effort. If it were clean and dry, it would be fun though.

"jesus came onto them" Clicky

Focus on the beer Bill. As for the carabiner, I have know idea since I got it for free.

Prefer tall boys!

So how far up the road can you get now?

Don't waste your money buying those things. You'd be better off renting a whole BC setup from Marmot.

http://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/road-status.htm

This thread should be titled popped nut.

Isn't little boner and deep throat an oxymoron?

Where's the booze?