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Everything posted by skitchmo
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Left nice cordelette and two beautiful locking biners on summit wall of Mount Erie last week. Although I was a fool I'd love them back... Eric 360 770-8103
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You da'man. Keep sending those pics of god's country...
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Lost Black Diamond Raven while descending low on Easton/Squak in early June. Eric (360) 770-8103
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best of cc.com [TR] Index, Vesper, Sperry, Big 4 MadManMisAdventure - 7/30/2007
skitchmo replied to ivan's topic in North Cascades
Sounds like leg-shaking terror. Clearly true Grade V requires strength and endurance, nerves of steel, finely honed skills and the ability to smell danger and dance with disaster while moving quickly and safely. I would have bailed. There may be more Grade V available in Darrington, Concrete and South Seattle? -
speed record [TR] Mt. Olympus Speed Record - 7/31/2007
skitchmo replied to off_the_hook's topic in Olympic Peninsula
You're nuts, but I like your pictures. Did ya' smell any roses on the way? -
I am becoming addicted to your regular jaunts through the Sierras and posting of such beautiful pics. Thanks for taking me back.
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[TR] Mount Ritter/Banner Peak - North Face 6/23/20
skitchmo replied to off_the_hook's topic in California
Leor, Keep the great pics coming. Perhaps if you started getting regular exercise your legs could carry you even further and you could send even more great pics of the High Sierra motherland? -
Probably too snowy up high but you could have fun driving to the end of the road at Artist Point, playing in the snow and going for a short walk. Your best bet is to get bagel sandwiches at Grahams down the road 2 or 3 miles in Glacier. You could also check out the visitor center just shy of Artist Point if it's open and hike around Bagly Lakes which may be snow-free (just watch out for the kraken!) Later in the year a hike around Table Mtn and camping in the Chain Lakes area is great kid fun.
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[TR] Demonslayer Peak (FA) - Certain Death Route, 5.14b XXX 6/16/2007
skitchmo replied to suge's topic in Alpine Lakes
Sends shivers through mine spine... -
Keep sending the great pics of CA. It provides some hope for those of us huddling under dark, grey, wet skies.
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[TR] Conness/North Peak - Glacier/NW Ridge - 6/17
skitchmo replied to off_the_hook's topic in California
Thanks for posting those pics, I miss that country terribly. Brings back memories of terrifying lightning, a fun jaunt up North Peak Couloir, a relaxing fat splief and an unexpected navy helicopter popping over the ridge... -
For that REI tent I could pack 3 of my 6 Moon Designs. Or even better, 1 Six Moon Designs and 4 pints of margarita mixin's. As I age though I am just taking the light tent and letting my pack get lighter and lighter...
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I completely agree. Finding rusty old pins brings to mind romantic pictures of hobnails, knickers and dulfersitz rappels. Leave 'em for the rest of us to chuckle at and move on. I'm also OK with clipping and leaving the occasional recent pin. I don't buy the whiny, liberal, mamby pamby BS that fixed pins are so bad. If a fixed pin ruins your day then you have too much time to waste thinking about little things.
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I have the larger Alpha and like it for what it is. A great car camping tent, in "light weight" mode to pack my entire family (4 of us) into for back packing in bad weather or bad mosquitos, or if I every need a strong tent on a mountain. I just did Baker two weeks ago and took my 2 lb Six Moon Designs ultra light. The other two guys were looking for some shade and my partner and I were relaxing in the evening shade of our tent while sipping our margaritas. I find I almost always grab that dinky little 2 pounder.
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I recommend using tact and common sense when observing others climbing. And I agree it's inspiring to watch great climbers, just don't be obnoxious about it. And I vote for at least a little bit of reading. For instance John Long's books about anchors have revolutionized how I set anchors and dramatically improved my safety. Books are not always alot of fun, but when your ass is hanging over 500 feet of air it's nice to be confident in how you do things...
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[TR] Guye Peak - Improbable Traverse [FFA/FKA] 6/1/2007
skitchmo replied to therunningdog's topic in Alpine Lakes
Is this new climbing gear available from my local REI or do I need to order from a more specialized dealer like Mountian Tools or the AAI gearshop? I am also wondering if any special training is involved? Inspired in Bow -
[TR] Mount Chossington - Chosseast Ridge 6/2/2007
skitchmo replied to MCash's topic in Olympic Peninsula
Note to self-stay home in the North Cascades. -
[TR] South Sister - Blown Away Ridge - Ying Yang 5/29/2007
skitchmo replied to gapertimmy's topic in the *freshiezone*
this may sound like a stupid question but was this sister in Washington or Oregon? Brook Trout -
[TR] Haeckel, Wallace, Picture Peak, Powell Traver
skitchmo replied to off_the_hook's topic in California
Nice pics. Brings tears to mine eyes to see such nice veiws of the High Sierra, truly "Gods Country". Thanks for taking the time to post. -
Trip: Cathedral Peak - Southeast buttress Date: 5/21/2007 Trip Report: Trip: Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak Date: May 21, 2007 Approach: Amazingly dry for end of May. Tuolumne Mdws climbing is great right now. Trip Report: I am sad to report the end of my 76 year old father's climbing career. Dick Stark started climbing in the early fifties and is a product of the Stanford Alpine Club, manila rope and the dulfersitz rapel. He started me out on Goldline rope tied in with a bowline. We then advanced to using a swami belt to tie in. It was exciting when we started leaving pitons behind for passive nuts. He still looks at cams as newfangled gizmos. He dislocated his shoulder several years ago at the top of the Cockscomb in Tuolumne Mdws, but we had wanted to climb Cathedral Peak one more time before all of his "parts fell off". Unfortunately 200 feet up he dislocated his shoulder again. He then climbed 25 feet of 5.6 with a dislocated shoulder. My wife, Ann, pushed from below, tolerating his spontaneous expressions of frustration (every daughter-in-law's worst nightmare). Once on the ledge where I was waiting, it took about 15 minutes to get his shoulder back in. Like a fool he turned down the Percocet and just cursed and gritted his teeth. He claims the unmistakable clunk of successful reduction was better than sex. We then lowered him off and had a quiet walk out. I pointed out that retiring from rock climbing at 76 is quite respectable and that he is probably the only person to have dislocated a shoulder on two of the peaks in his beloved Cathedral Range. He is now relegated to backpacking and peak bagging but I think he still has a lot of miles in those knobby knees and skinny old legs. Approaching on a low snow year. We at least got in two pitches of fun climbing. Cathedral Peak geriatric orthopedic clinic. Still smiling on the way out. Congradulations on a long and enjoyable climbing career dad. Skitchmo Gear Notes: Small rack inluding shoulder immobilizer.
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Thanks, good idea. I hate mixed skinning and walking. Maybe I'll have breakfast at the TPR and have a liesurely look for some belay-from-the-bumper classics?
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Goin' to California for some skiing on Sonora Pass next week. Anyone know how the approach to, and descent from, Cathedral Peak would be early in the season (assuming Tioga Pass opens soon)? I haven't done Cathedral Peak in about 15 years and remember it as an absolute blast on spectacular rock. Probably just skin up to the base and then rap back down to skis? Skitchmo
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Atta boy, if Hillary and Tenzing had turned back 'cause of a few minor adversities they would have been but a historical footnote. Keep up the strong work...