scottgg

Being way into the "light and not-so-fast" scene, I am always looking for ways to lighten my pack. "Mountain boots? No way! Bug spray? Forgetaboutit!" Seemed reasonable, but it didnt address the army of blood thirsty bugs we were sure to encounter. So I enlisted the help of Federal Way's local wizards to cast a spell of protection over Jens and I. My pack was lighter, but of course their stupid incantation didnt work, so I was thankful to use Jens bug juice to keep the hoardes at bay. Like Nelson describes in his guide, this climb has mediocre (for the Stuart Range) rock, and is especially loose through the crux (we both thought this section was alittle easier than 5.8). But the position is awsome, and the climbing great! Jens testing the rock midway up.... Stuart.... Almost there..... On top, with balanced-rock in the background.... Jens psyching up for the free ascent.... Sherpa..... Sherpa Balanced Rock looked improbable at best from the summit, free or otherwise... You enter the crux with protection below your feet, definate ground fall potential. But Jens cranked it, and I managed to worm my way up it, taking one fall. Yee-Haw!

I thought I caught you casting a few mischevious glances towards willis wall last weekend! I think the guide books advice on "the wall" goes something like this: "...load up on carbs, throw up a few hail-marys, and dont stop until your at the top!"

Looks like Liberty Bell helped get you guys ready! Nice pics!

This is probably the coolest/best pack I have used. Its perfect for car-car alpine rock climbs, and I even used it overnight on liberty ridge (bit stuffed, but I made it work). If you are looking for a light (2#5oz) pack to do it all, then check this puppy out.

Great climb guys, very cool looking line! I have the 1st edition of Vol. 2, and the "west arete" is in it.

The "west arete" is in vol. 2 of Selected Climbs.

I'm planning on trying the traverse car-car this summer... has anyone done this, or have any advice/ specific times? Thanks.

I climbed it last season in May, and I would expect conditions now to be similar. The face should be snow free, and the gentle glacier in good condition.

Now you can get those Cobras Kurt

I use the Civetta Extremes, and I have enjoyed them. However, I have noticed that the narrow width does not accept various step-in crampons (at least on my size 14). I currently use strap-on G-12's, and they work well. Be sure to match the boots with your spikes before you buy.

I know that a team recently attempted to climb Rainier, Hood, and Adams in 24 hours, and I think they were successful...

Wow, that link has an amazing story! Sad...

Awesome Looking!

Climb: Mt. Hood-Reid Headwall Date of Climb: 6/10/2006 Trip Report: I enjoyed this route, and our pictures turned out so nicely that I felt compelled to share them. Our original intent was to climb Lethould's Couloir, and I only brought my second tool as an after thought. But once we got to camp at Illumination Saddle we decided to try out the Reid Headwall. View Up From Camp Sunset Over the Reid The snow was good, and after several hundred feet we came to a 70degree snice step: At this point I took out our spare tool, led the pitch, then clipped it to the rope "zip line" style and sent it down to my sister. This section was followed by a mixed traverse, followed by steep snow to the summit ridge. A second tool was very helpful, as was a fun/motivated group Gear Notes: Two Screws(used) 2nd Tool

Cool climb!

Yeah, nice job Gary and Aaron. Your TR inspired me to do the route, but I would have appreciated some bigger buckets in the couloir

Must have taken some will power to pull on those wet boots in the morning and tackle Stuart!

Doesn't sound good I know these two women made the first "man-less" ascent of Denali's Cassin Ridge, I wonder what they where attempting on Foraker?

Everyone knows that guns are aid, but anything goes in the alpine! Aside from dispatching snakes and the occasional young snaffle-hound, they are also useful for testing slide-prone slopes, freeing stuck ropes, and encouraging your partner not to back down from his lead!

yeah, there was lots of debris beneath our route, but conditions were very stable while we were climbing. we passed the berg on the right side, and found the lower couloir held very hard snow/ice, while the upper section got early sun and had sofened up enought to kick steps. Very neat route!

Nice day, huh? Saw you guys on the west ridge, near the twin cracks, just before we left the summit.

Has anyone recently been up the south side of adams? Can you drive all the way to the trailhead? Thanks!

Has anyone climbed up the haystack besides via the backside gully? I saw some old webbing and a bolt on the south? face. Seems like it would be a fun climb when leaving the family to enjoy lunch below...

Ok, what about psychologically challenging Cascade routes? It seems some of the more hyped hard climbs are well within most of our technical range, but due to the mysterious aurora (whether deserved or not) they receive few ascents. Last week I saw two parties bail off saber ledge on Castle Rock, after deciding against the canary route. After seeing both parties climb the first pitch (harder) I know the intimidating pitch was within their technical reach. What are some other technically moderate routes with a big psyche-out factor?

After a few trips through the enchantments, and decents off dragontails south side, I have become interested in a rock tower located south of dragontail, and west of asgard pass. As you descend the glacier behind dragontail, the spire is to your right, and I think its called The Witches Tower... anyone know of any routes/beta? Thanks!