scottgg

Yep, very inspiring!

Checked out the East Face again this past Sunday, we climbed 4 fun pitches before bailing. I know lots of folks have this gem on their list, and I can't wait to get back, maybe after winter's official start.... First Pitch Marko rockin the challenging 2nd pitch Looking down from our high point

Thanks Jens! I was up in the Alpental valley on Sunday, and there was ice everywere! The cliffs around "Source Lake Line" had a bunch of good looking multipitch ice, and the Rap Wall had some cool daggers coming off the top. NY Gully looked like it had lots of white stuff (ice?) on it, East Face of Chair looked really good, but the NE Slab on The Tooth was very thin and didnt look fun. Snowpack was good, seemed like one big layer. The upper parking lot is open, and there is a nice ski trail leading to the backcountry. Yippee!

School is going to be cancelled, and I'm heading up to the hills tomorrow. I'd like to leave really early, and be back in the early afternoon. Anyone free?

Sounds cool. Is the upper parking lot open yet? How about the cat track? Thanks!

I'm stuck at work, but I'd love to get out tonight after work.. maybe Si Haystack?

partner found, thanks!

Who's got some free time? I have to be back in Seattle by 12:00pm, so I'd like to meet up super early. Weather is suppose to be "ok". Some thoughts: Scope out the approach to NY Gully Improb Traverse on Guye Peak Rap Wall

Either by yourself or another party, what notable ascents do you want to see done this winter? In other words, hearing of others success on which climbs will most inspire you? These are the climbs that I'd be stoked to see others get up: East Ridge of Silver Star A nordwand route on Rainier North Face of Mt Persis

Thanks Rat

Great advice so far, I agree that your body size partially dictates the type of gun that works best for you. I use a snub nose hammer-less S&W .357 with an in-the-pants holster. My best recomendation is to get a hammerless snub nose .357. Totally reliable, easily concelable, solid stopping power, and you can practice with cheaper .38 special ammo.

So I'm wondering what the correlation is between ice/alpine climbing ability and performance in traditional exercises like pullups pushups ect. I know technique plays a huge role, but what are your experiences/anecdotes/ or anomilies you have seen. For example: a wizened ice climber once told me if you can do 15 good pullups and cant climb WI4, then its your technique that needs work not your strength. Thoughts?

Discovering Cascade Climbers, and its great networking abilities, allowed me to climb with some great people I wouldnt have met otherwise. The comraderie and new friends has been my favorite part of this years, here are some highlights: Abiel Peak- Blind Date (thought it was a FA, but I guess some hardmen did it in the 80's) Triple Couloirs- perfect conditions Stuart Glacier Couloir Sandy Headwall- First time up Hood Reid Headwall- So much fun the first time I decided to come back with my sister Liberty Ridge-beautiful and challenging Sherpa-north ridge and balanced rock FFA (Jens risked a nasty fall to lead it) Backbone Ridge- OW was tough! Mt Adams w/ my Dad- Unforgetable Chair Peak- North Face in November- Awesome mixed climb! I havent really caught on to this bivy thing, so all routes were car to car (except Lib Ridge ) Thanks for all the tips and advice (whether solicited or not ) and for an awesome resource!

Anyone have some leather ice climbing boots for sale? PM Me. Scott

Nice Man! Those new tools look sweet!

Yep, fun stuff! I'd love to climb the East Face in winter, sounds like some awesome conditions Pope. Its a blast in the summer also, better than the NE Butt. Here are some pictures I dug up... My buddy Aaron in front of Chair Peak a few winters ago. The face looked about the same yesterday, but the east face had a little more ice, while the north face had a little less... This picture is to show Chris what he was missing by climbing it now Taken during a climb of the North Face two winters ago.... Highly recommended early season climb, now who wants to check out the Tooth's East Face?

Climb: Chair Peak-North Face in November Date of Climb: 11/1/2006 Trip Report: You know the scenario: your milling about the Alpental parking lot, packing up for a nice fall hike, or perhaps a jaunt up one of the local classics: South Face of The Tooth, or Guye Peak’s Improbable Traverse. You shiver from a stiff breeze, which rustles leaves and prompts you to pack an extra layer. Suddenly the first rays of sunlight burst over the hills, painting the east facing hills with a fiery red glow. Chair Peak immediately catches your eye, with its east face covered in early season ice runnels and smears. What would it be like up there, you muse, nice blue ice or powder snow tediously bonded to the rock? Yearning to find out, I set the date for Wenesday, but first I would need a partner… I foresaw the cynicism that would meet my “Climbing Partners” request, but I asked anyway: Who wants to check out some early season ice on Chair Peak’s North Face? Chris Martin (aka cfire) responded, and begrudgingly agreed to a 3:00am rendezvous at the Albertsons off I-90. The digital display read 20 degrees at Snoqualmie, and there was a stiff wind out of the north (or was it south?). Our headlamps sparkled brilliantly off the fresh snow, and the icy trail kept out attention until we started up the drainage leading into the basin below our objective. Crampons and tools were soon chewing up the icy slope leading to the base of the Northeast Buttress, and Chris led us around the corner to the base of the left facing corner signifying the start of our route. We saw some solid looking ice at the top of the corner, and patches here and there, but the route was mostly snow and snow-dusted rock. The climbing looked desperate, a far cry from the rolling 70 degree ice that I’d seen before. But Chris tied in anyway, figuring he could get some gear in the corner. I grew nauseous watching him climb: he was doing awesome, but I could tell that it was hard, and the pro was extremely sporty (marginal pins). I was relieved when he finally clipped into the slung chockstone and brought me up. He pronounced the climbing “spicy”, and turned the sharp end over to me. The next pitch climbed into the ice we saw from below and continued past the ring piton and up to a fixed angle piton. Chris then led a simul-climbing block to just below the summit. This section was mostly moderate firm snow, but the last 25 meters was more challenging mixed climbing, but with good frozen turf sticks. After tagging the top we down climbed to the south, then made two 60m rappels into the basin and hurried back to the trail. Car by 2:00. Awesome time! Gear Notes: knifeblades

Chair had a fair amount of snow on it as of Sunday, and these cold temps may have worked there magic up there. Anybody up for checking out the North Face with me tomorrow? I'd like to leave super early, and get back in the early afternoon.

My brother and I checked it out on Saturday, but found the slab covered in snow and the first pitch running with water. Looks like a really cool route, cant wait to do it. Currently, there is snow from about 4500' and up, south face was dry though.

Hey Jim and Dave How about a topo? Maybe we'll consider this climb as a recon for a winter attempt!

Anyone done this route, or have any beta to share? Thanks!

Great photo, thanks!

Plans fell through, Weather looks good, I'd like to leave early and be back Saturday night. Ideas: East Face Mt. Tooth Stuart West Ridge Or ??? PM me

Awesome! I know Joel K. from a few years back, really glad that he's doing well and enjoying more of the Cascades than just Rainier!