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beecher

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Everything posted by beecher

  1. yeah, there's lots of subarus around and you can score one used pretty cheap. decent all around traction, comfort, economy, reliability. throw on some studded tires & go for it. flotation is bs, snow tires are actually more on the tall and narrow end of the spectrum. you just need enough clearance that you won't high center on crust after a melt-freeze (as long as you're not the lowest ride out there you'll be fine)
  2. north of highway 20, and also anywhere east of a line drawn between diablo dam and stevens pass, the buddy system applies. also, you are not allowed on smaller mountains after 10PM. you may however stay out later on the big chubby ones. there is plenty of scrambling/climbing for all ability levels that you can do solo in the cascades on big and small mountains alike.
  3. Bollocks - Guinness requires no fewer than 16 satellite acquisitions for top 100 status.
  4. My Mechanic, just off Aurora on 97th or thereabouts. Great service, David will sit you down and take the time to explain what he did and why. I don't know if he'll hit on your girlfriend, but he'll take care of your Subie.
  5. The Vasques with the stealth rubber are really nice. quite light & sturdy. I can't say that I have climbed 5.8 cracks in them (goodonya dannible), but they run/walk/smear well.
  6. these are not customer service representatives or web reservation experts, they are guides. rants like these coming from someone I don't know, and about conversations I did not hear, don't hold much water to me. sorry to hear you could not find some more constructive means to resolve your frustration, maybe you learned something and will have better luck dealing with people in the future.
  7. Not a nut case or a climber, I don't think he actually walked around the world, although he has a unique life story. There was a good article on him in the Sierra Club rag a few months ago and some stuff on the web, well worth checking out.
  8. beecher

    dynamic belay

    Penalty slack!
  9. It is very difficult to ski while roped, unless you are simply sideslipping at the same rate as your ropemates. When you ski downhill on a crevassed glacier, you simply take the chance that you may fall in. Skinning up, however, I think it's worth it to rope up unless you are very confident in the conditions. Even though it would be difficult to get in an effective arrest position, the friction of the rope on the snow and the weight of the other people (unless they are upslope of the fallen skier) are probably enough to hold many crevasse falls. Also, it is challenging to kick turn while roped.
  10. I have some pic's of you on P2&3 taken from the hwy
  11. I always assumed that "mid way" anchors at crags were really only originally installed so you could climb a full pitch (ie: close to a full rope length) to the upper anchor, from which you would belay your 2nd, then lower the 2nd and do two single rope raps to get down. They are not there to break the climb into two pitches of less than a half rope length each, that would be silly. There should not be anchors installed partway up where climbs change difficulty, especially in this case where you can lower or rap with a 60m rope.
  12. I'm gonna assume that a "summit program" gift certificate means he'll be walking up a large mountain. You want a regimen that combines aerobic conditioning and leg strength. Running hills or stairs is excellent. Mix things up with some cycling and even some swimming to keep him from getting suspicious. Learning how to hydrate and fuel your body to handle long periods of activity is important, so go on some long hikes, rides, runs, ski tours... Here's a great link with great advice: http://www.ncmountainguides.com/essaytraining.html
  13. Am I to understand by your comments that you have soloed this route? Cool! I believe the ledge allows you to also bypass the short descent and traverse on the glacier. is this true or are my arselips flapping? Kevbone, I'm almost certain that he means he worked 9 to 5 in seattle, then went and soloed the route. I have a cousin named Chuck, and he is capable of amazing feats. I am assuming they must be one and the same. Chuck, I am going to miss your wedding in June. Sorry.
  14. you have to hike to climb in da mountains? even in these here cascade mountains?! protest at westlake. 5PM
  15. I've always thought this route is a good and funny example of what people are willing to do to find decent alpine rock in the cascades. Approach description: go up over headlee pass, traverse for a while, drop down a short ways onto glacier (or traverse manky ledge) from a point at which you could take a short and easy walk to the summit, and then start climbing. I haven't climbed the route, but I have walked to the summit, then walked down to the middle of the slab portion of the route. Yes, you can walk there from just west of the summit following beautiful rock ramps. It sure is a cool looking route, and I do hope to climb it, the rock on the upper portion looks fabulous. But I have to admit to myself that it will be pretty silly and contrived when I do! The slab doesn't seem like an appealing place to be in winter. I like the big glide crack or moat that appears in Schurlock's photo.
  16. is looking good fellas. nice! do you have a burst mode on your camera or did you just luck out with the timing on some of those?
  17. shouldn'ta said "now I can not fall"
  18. where was the house this was stolen from? I live in that neighborhood and there's a troupe of lowlife old school fuckwad good old boys who need to be beaten badly. Yes, they bring out the worst in me. I love hearing stories like this - thank you tvash..tena
  19. beecher

    so cool...

    is this the pet peeve thread? noisy shit flying around like jet skis in the sky is the last thing I look forward to.
  20. I just released a deployment. I agree, they can be somewhat time consuming.
  21. here here. take your change, your gum, say thank you and go home.
  22. I hate duets
  23. jesus. kevbone made a funny that i like. Isn't it ironic
  24. gotta second this input
  25. trashcan rock has lots of short beginner routes. if i'm remembering correctly it's located between the park entrance and hidden valley. you won't have trouble finding some rocks to have fun on.
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