Tom_Sjolseth

@Darin.. there are probably other higher unclimbed points out there (possibly a sub-summit of 7FJ, or one of Jack's false summits), but this one has got to be the toughest. I'm not sure of the prominence on Assassin Spire, but I believe the map to be in error as it only lists 160' of prominence for Assassin Spire. I believe there to be over 300' of prominence, but we'll probably never know for sure. @Steve.. very cool! We were equally surprised to see you I'm sure. @JoshK.. surprisingly we didn't see or hear that hanging glacier drop a single thing the entire time we were in there (even at camp). You wouldn't see me climbing that thing though, especially at WI6.. @Rad.. I'd be glad to contribute this to the NWMJ.

Sick. What a nice looking line!

Trip: Assassin Spire - NW Face - The Shooting Gallery (IV, WI4+) - FA Date: 3/7/2010 Trip Report: Assassin Spire - The Shooting Gallery (IV, WI4+) Photo courtesy of John Scurlock. Assassin Spire is a subsidiary summit of Lincoln Peak, one of the intimidating Black Buttes on Mt. Baker. Until this weekend it had never seen an ascent via any route. Daniel Jeffrey and I headed up to Marmot Ridge via Warm Creek off the Middle Fork of the Nooksack River on Thursday evening after work. We had planned to approach that evening, but it was raining when we arrived, so we decided to postpone the approach until the following morning. Friday morning we awoke at 3:30AM, and got ready to head up. We were crossing a very icy Warm Creek by 3:50 in complete darkness. We then headed up new-growth timber through a clearcut for 700' to gain Marmot Ridge. From here, it was a long, undulating journey to camp at ~6200' in the basin below Assassin Peak and Heliotrope Ridge. The next morning we awoke at 3:30 again to crystal clear, starry skies. We brewed some water and coffee, and proceeded to cross the basin to the base of the NW Face. We had spied a vertical line of ice (~3 pitches of WI6) below the hanging glacier, but it looked a bit intimidating for us, so we opted to try a less sporty line on climber's right. 2 25m pitches of WI4+ (90-100 degree ice - short stretches of overhanging on the first pitch) separated by a ledge led us up to a 55 degree buttress. The ice on the curtain was very brittle and it took multiple swings to get good placements. This was very tiring, and we pumped out fast. I led 25m on the first step before running out of screws. I then lowered off and belayed Daniel up to finish the last 5m (one more screw placement). From here, he belayed me up and I led the next 30m pitch. The ice was better here, but still brittle in spots. A swing of the tool would shatter the ice as it broke off huge chunks. From the top of the first curtain, we climbed 55 degree snow (firm and punchy here) to gain the hanging glacier. Above the hanging glacier lies an amazing amphitheater of ice and rock that rivals anything else I have seen in the entire N Cascade Range. How impressive!! Many lines are waiting to be climbed here consisting of very aesthetic, sustained, and solid ice. We traversed the hanging glacier to another gully (45 degrees), which we simul-soloed. This gully led into some 70 degree ice which we also soloed. We went right at John Wilkes' Tooth before arriving at the final ice curtain (20m WI4+). Daniel led this and we topped out in another steep snow/ice gully to 55 degrees. 3 more pitches led us to the summit. What a place! From the summit, Lincoln Peak looks impressive, as does Colfax and Baker. We spied about 15 snowmobiles parked under Sherman Peak, and saw 4 climbers at the col below the upper slopes of the Coleman Glacier. We were buzzed on the summit by an EA6B Prowler who did a double-take and circled us 2 or 3 times. The pilot tipped his wing. Very cool. This was a fantastic trip of epic proportions with a great partner in Daniel Jeffrey. Thanks to John Scurlock for flying over before the ascent to take recon photos, and thanks also for flying over on approach day thinking we were on route (we had told him we would be climbing Assassin on Friday). We saw him circle about 10 times looking for us. If only we had a flare gun... Scurlock's photo from March 5. THANKS John! Tracks in front of the Sister's Range on the approach. On the approach looking up at Heliotrope Ridge. View of Assassin Spire from the approach. Daniel at camp. Assassin Spire from camp. Fading light over the Sister's Range from camp. Alpenglow on Assassin Spire. Sunset. Me leading the upper portion of the first ice curtain on Assassin Spire. Looking down from the arete. Looking up from just above the first ice curtain. Daniel topping out on the first curtain. Daniel climbing up to the hanging glacier. The amphitheater. Views to the Sister's Range from mid-route. Looking down from high on the route. The Assassin Spire conglomerate. Tracks on route. Weeping curtains of ice from mid-route. Daniel climbing up to the belay below the third curtain. Daniel leading the third ice curtain. The steep gully above the last ice curtain. The upper slopes of Assassin Spire. Daniel a few pitches below the summit. Daniel on route below the summit. Daniel approaching the final steps to the summit of Assassin Spire. Lincoln Peak from the summit. Mt. Baker and Colfax Peak from the summit of Assassin Spire. Daniel on the summit. View to the west from the summit. Looking down from the summit. Me on the summit of Assassin Spire. Unclimbed ice on Lincoln Peak's NW Face. A close-up of unclimbed ice. A huge curtain of ice (WI6) below the hanging glacier on Assassin Spire. Sister's Range in fading light. One parting shot.

Rafael, I have your screw and your pin. I have been in touch with spionin regarding a rendezvous sometime this week. We saw your prints topping out above the rock step after we climbed the ice step (the prints below were gone). It looked like fun!

I found it about halfway up. How do I get it back to you?

Nice shots! Good bumping into you at the Alpy parking lot today.

Trip: Chair Peak - North Face + NE Buttress Date: 3/1/2010 Trip Report: Daniel Jeffrey and I linked up for a great climb up the N Face and NE Buttress of Chair Peak today. We met at the P&R at 2:50AM to get an early start. We were headed up the well-packed trail by 4:15 after a stop for supplies at McDonald's in North Bend. The trail is great until just above Source Lake where there is an annoying breakable crust. We were sinking in calf-deep in snowshoes which made for slower going. We gained the ridge, then headed over to the N Face in fairly deep, soft and wind-deposited snow. The first pitch is really fat right now with great plastic ice (brittle in some spots, but plastic for the most part). The remainder of the route is just as fat with some great, punchy snow and more fat ice. We topped out at 7:30 and spent about 30 minutes on the summit enjoying the views. From here we walked down the descent gully (no need for rappel here) to the notch and the rappel slings. We rappelled here, but didn't really need to as we would later find out on lap #2. After the first 20 feet, we down-climbed the remainder of the descent gully below a huge, looming cornice and made our way back over to the NE Buttress. Here, we decided to do another lap before things started to heat up. We took a left-hand variation to start and the ice was a bit brittle, but then became solid higher up. The next portion of the climb was deep bucket steps on 50 degree snow. The step in the middle of the route was eroding, so we took a less spicy variation to the left, being as how we weren't roped up. Ice is very brittle here, and chunks were coming off with each swing. We topped out at the notch, then immediately headed down again, this time bypassing the rappel and just down-climbing the gully this time. I headed back down towards Snow Lake to retrieve the glove I dropped before starting up the N Face. I got my glove back and made my way back to the TH, returning right at 10:45 for a 6.5 hour round trip. We brought 3 screws, 1 60m rope, and 2 pickets, but only used the rope for a rappel from the notch. I bootied an ice screw and an unused KB piton (laying on the snow slope on the NE Buttress). An excellent day off work! Beautiful sunrise from the N Face. Daniel starting up the North Face. More sunrise. Low on the route. Sunrise again. Beautiful! A look ahead to the upper portion of the route. Daniel climbing on the N Face. Halfway up the N Face. Daniel just below the summit. Views from the summit. Looking down from low on the NE Buttress. Looking up from below the step. View from the NE Buttress. Looking down on Daniel. Daniel topping out on the step. Nearing the top of the NE Buttress.

Nice work, gents!

I was up there last Tuesday. We climbed the Fuhrer Thumb and made it to 12,000' before waist deep wallowing forced us to turn around. I have never seen it that deep on the upper mountain. I'd bet with all this sunshine it's going to be fairly good in the AM with any melt-freeze (we sat at 12,000' in T-Shirts on 2/9).

You've got my vote for entertaining TR of the year!

Dark Peak was one of my Top 5 favorite summits on the Top 100 list. I didn't feel cheated one bit. I suspect Josh will have a similar experience.

I think Dark Peak is a good climb for you, Josh. Check out a TR I wrote about it here.

We climbed Rainbow Falls L&R yesterday. Rainbow Right above the chains is getting thin and tops out on bare slab. We drove up the Entiat this morning and checked out McCrea Falls which was melting out fast and very hollow. Large chunks of ice were scattered about the base and we decided to bail. We thought about checking out Banks Lake but the temps were pretty warm so we drove home. Drury Falls looked fat on the way home.

Nice foresight to do this route now. Too bad about the skis, but it sounds like Tim had fun in his teleboots regardless! Any closeups of Baker?

You could easily get by with a mountaineer's axe.

Just picked one of these up at PMS. Great work, Steph. A great idea to help save a great NW climbing area.

Avi danger was pretty much nil. We did hear seracs coming off the Nisqually Ice Cliff, but that happens regardless of avi danger.

Trip: Mt. Rainier - Nisqually-Gibraltar Chute Date: 12/26/2009 Trip Report: Franklin and I summitted this morning via the chute. Conditions were pretty good, especially through the chute itself. We didn't use the pro we brought. The upper mountain was in good shape too, half and half firm and ankle deep postholing. It was windy on the summit, with temps around 5. We descended the Ingraham Direct which is not an advisable descent route right now. It's thinly covered and broken. We hugged the right side near the bottom (right along the rock). We then walked down Cadaver Gap. We probably should have descended the ledges. Sunrise from above Gibraltar Rock. Franklin on the ascent. Morning Alpenglow. Franklin at about 13,500'. Views. Franklin on the upper mountain. The view across the summit crater. Franklin on Columbia Crest. Liberty Cap and Puget Sound from the summit. Franklin descending the upper portion of the Ingraham Glacier. Looking down the Ingraham Glacier. Cathedral Peaks and Little Tahoma. Franklin happy to be done with the Ingraham Glacier. Looking back up the Ingraham Glacier. Franklin, all smiles after his first summit of Mt. Rainier.

Trip: Big Four - Upper North Face Date: 12/5/2009 Trip Report: Justus_S drove up to the Mountain Loop Highway before work this past week, and took some photos of the N Face of Big Four. It looked like it could be in climbing shape given the great snow conditions and clear weather, but we weren't sure about the portion down low, so we were intent to check it out ourselves. Justus, therunningdog, and I left Seattle at 1:30AM this morning and drove to the parking area for Big Four Ice Caves. We walked out and looked at the North Face, basking in the bright moonlight. Although the upper portion of the face looked great, the lower face where polished slabs guard the way was absent of snow. We decided to check out a route up Dry Gulch that crosses over into the bowl below the upper half of the N Face. This would enable us to bypass the tricky lower portion of the face in the dark. We arrived at milepost 27 off the Mtn Loop at about 3:15AM. After 30 minutes of packing up our gear and remarking how cold it was, we were off. We headed downhill to cross the River, 'schwacking through brush in the dark. Once at the river, we could not find a suitable crossing right away, and so we headed up stream to find one. About a half mile later, we stumbled upon a suitable log (albeit iced over). Carefully, we made our way across without incident. From the river crossing, we headed up the hill in slide alder and devils clubs (still dark), aiming for the waterfall. Once at the waterfall, it was very tough to see the route, especially since the moon was crossing over the top of the peak and out of view. We poked around for about an hour or so, trying different variations through iced-over cliff bands, but eventually gave up and waited for sunrise. When the sun came up enough for us to see clearly, we spied a gully to climber's right that heads up into the basin below the Dry Gulch route. We climbed this gully about 600' to a leftward trending diagonal ramp. This ramp was great, because it offered us practically the only route up into the basin. Once in the basin, we traversed climber's left, then straight up into an avalanche cone coming off the E Face. From there, we cut right up another steep, diagonal snow ramp that enabled us to gain the bowl below the upper N Face of Big Four. We had not heard of anyone going this way before, but Justus spied it in hi-res photos and we figured it would go. The ramp leads into some very steep terrain (65 degrees) with very large drops below. The snow was perfect though, and so we felt fairly comfortable through here. Perfect styrofoam! At the end of the ramp, we cut straight uphill and gained a large saddle below Pt 4720+. From here, we could see the remainder of the route. 1500' of steep, beautiful ice leading right up to the true summit. We didn't belay any of the final pitches, but rather did running belays with me leading (tied into the middle of the rope) and Tim and Justus following (tied into the ends, staggered). I placed a total of 8 screws on the entire 1500', and slung about 4 trees. Other than that, all the sticks were bomber, so we felt pretty good about things. We topped out at 1PM, just as we had guessed from the get-go. We made our way over to the true summit, ate some food, re-hydrated, took some photos, then headed down to find the Dry Gulch route and descend. The descent was steep in places, and we had to down-climb one vertical WI pitch (15'), and several 80 degree WI pitches. We didn't make any rappels. Again, the placements were all very solid, so it was very confidence inspiring. We finally made it back to the car at 5:15, 13.5 hours after we left. What a great day in the mountains, one I will remember for a long time to come. Thanks to Justus and Tim for being such great partners. Big Four's East Face at sunrise. Tim happy to be out on such a beautiful day. Justus starting up the access ramp. Justus halfway up the ramp. Pt 4760+ The upper North Face of Big Four in stellar conditions. More of the upper North Face of Big Four. Justus and I heading up to the first pitch. Justus and I starting up the first pitch. Views from mid-pitch. Me on the first pitch. Zoomed out. Icicles on the North Face of Big Four. Looking up to the remainder of the route. Justus and Tim somewhere on the North Face. More ice! Tim, all smiles. Mountain Loop peaks in the distance. Nearing the summit of Big Four. Shadow of Big Four from just below the summit. Vesper, Sperry, and beyond from the summit of Big Four. More summit views. Tim and Justus traversing the summit ridge. Me on the summit of Big Four. Weather moving in? Me downclimbing from the false summit. Justus and Tim downclimbing to the notch. More downclimbing. The last of the downclimbing. Parting shot from the descent.

Sinister?

Nice work, Steph. I especially like your night photos from camp. You've had a good year.

Wow, GREAT photos, tvash. Excellent in fact.

Nice work getting it done! I'm glad nobody got injured by the falling serac. Looking forward to the photos.

Beautiful! Nice work.

Nice, Jimbo and Wayne. Just another wild adventure on a classic peak.