SPS and I did this route a few years ago and were amazed at how little glacier was left. How was the glacier looking this year?
There is supposed to be a way to traverse back south along the ridge, dumping you at the standard bivy col. We didn't try it, but would have cut off a lot of time getting down. We used a single 60 m and had no issue. Made it back to the car same day we summitted, but I would call it more of a two and half day trip. Good job guys! This was probably one of my favorite climbs to date!