sparverius

I'm looking to head up to Index this tuesday and wednesday if anyone is interested in joining me. I lead up to 5.10a trad. -Jason

hey all. I'm interested in climbing the burgner/stanley route on prusik peak july 20-22. If there is additional time I'd also like to check out the pearly gates out of leavenworth. I'm off to Redoubt/Spickard tomorrow through sunday, so I won't be able to get to a computer much before then. Call if interested. Jason 541-908-5205 jwschill@gmail.com

thanks for the great TR Steph. I'd like to echo Donn's comments about how the cohesiveness of our team and the patience/professionalism of Kelley Bush and the rest of the NCNP are the reasons that everything ended on a positive note. This is a trip and experience that I won't soon forget. Jason

hey all, Jason here. I want to thank everyone on this site for the encouragement and good vibes while I was hanging out on terror this past week. The sound decisions and efficient climbing of Steph and Donn saved Steve's life as well as mine the day of the accident. So many details added up to a happy ending to this ordeal. The decision to drop me some supplies while rescuing Steve was crucial, as was giving Steph and Donn a radio, which they used to direct me to the overhanging ledge where I holed up. Three stormy nights at my initial bivy site would have been grim. Lead climbing ranger Kelley Bush's calmness and amazing ability to lead rescue operations under pressure greatly contributed to the success of both rescues. Hearing her voice every morning and night on the radio was reassuring. I am grateful to Kvork Arackellian who rescued Steve and I on the hi-line and the helicopter pilot Tony who performed two extremely difficult rescues over the course of five days. Thanks all. I have the summer off and will be headed back to the hills soon after a short drinking vacation, if anyone is looking for a partner. I will be loosely based out of seattle.

Hi all, thanks for concern. Talked to J this morning and he's still warm at core and food supply okay. Tomorrow there may be a chance with the heli but no promises. Park service is on it, including thinking about ground options if he gets colder. We'd all prefer the fly-in though. -J's girlfriend

Nice work and pretty pictures Chris.

The Willamette Backcountry avi course wasn't opened to the public when I took it a few years ago. But it looks like OMA has one in addition to the mountain savy courses already mentioned: http://www.i-world.net/oma/trips/avalanche.html

btw Shapp, those are some bad-ass photos

I floated that section in March and was thinking the same thing. It would be nice to get in there and devote a day or two to scoping out some lines. I recall that some of the spires were several hundred feet in height.

Born and raised near Cleveland, Ohio College in Grantham, PA Wandering the western US 1998-2003 Oregonian 2003-Present

ummm yeah, you're right. But I was hoping for a nice approach, maybe even on skis once the snow starts to accumulate.

wouldn't the possibility of downed trees make it hard to follow the TJ trail? I've never been up the Elk Cove/Coe Glacier approach. How does it compare to the approach from Cloud Cap? Guess I could look at a map to figure that one out.

So what is it going to take to access the NF this year, a helicopter? If the TJ trail is toast and the road filled with downed trees, what viable options exist?

Hey Ian, I think we met three years ago at Wolf Rock when you were climbing with Deverton. I've seen you around over the years and at some of Logan's parties. I've never climbed with Tyler, but first started climbing in Oregon with skyclimb a while ago, who you may have climbed with. If you're still in corvallis, I'm always looking for new climbing partners. Jason

a valiant effort and wise retreat

Was just up at his old stomping ground, the Menagerie, a week ago. I though of him and was grateful for his bold pioneering climbs there.

Yeah Tyler, it was a sweet day up there. When did you last climb the west face? Judging from the small trees and thick mats of moss in the cracks, it seems like it's been neglected for some time. We did winter sunshine in one pitch.

Trip: Indian Summer in the Menagerie - Rooster Rock-West Face, Hen Rock-Winter Sunshine Date: 10/25/2008 Trip Report: Logan and I headed up to the Menagerie last Saturday for one last stab at summertime glory. We slept under the stars at the trailhead and didn't stir until the sun broke into the canyon at 10. The approach took just under an hour and put us at the base of Rooster Rock. We started with the "classic" west face route on Rooster. This route has some potential, but needs some gardening and a good scrubbing. Looking down from halfway up the first pitch The upper part of this pitch presented problems with a flaring chimney leading to an overhang, but redeemed itself with a nice hand crack in the moss. I pulled off large mats of the stuff and wondered about growth rates of moss, and when this route had last seen activity. I belayed Logan from a mossy ledge atop the first pitch and tried to clear the dirt and moss from my face. More awkwardness followed on the second pitch, but Logan led it elegantly. After exiting the awkwardness, a short but sweet open book led to the summit. Chicken Rock We opted to end the day with winter sunshine, a bolted route on Hen Rock's south face. Logan followed my thrashing and scratching lead, and we enjoyed a fine sunset on top and hiked down in the dark. Approach Notes: steep and sweaty

yeah Nate, that place is great. We stopped by today to see if they had any AT boots for Anna, to no avail.

A valiant effort. That rock looks awful.

nice photos Steph

check out this website: http://www.gravityadventures.net/guidebook.php Or contact Mirek through the site. He's a good guy and wrote the book. And I believe he put up a few of the climbs there.

nice flora and fauna pics

hell yeah Nick. Good to see you back at it. The rib healed up ok?

alright. Be careful up there. It would be fun to wait for snow and do a ski traverse of the mentioned peaks.