sparverius

Trip: Mount Redoubt - NE Face Date: 7/17/2009 Trip Report: Donn and I climbed the NE Face of Mt. Redoubt on Friday. I was ready to get back on the horse after the fiasco on Mt. Terror and Donn was eager to climb the face after two aborted attempts in recent years. We were able to drive about 2 miles up the Depot Creek road and crashed there with nary a car in sight. The skeeters were busy and gave us a preview of what was in store for us at Ouzel Lake. The hike in on Friday was reasonable. We arrived at the border after 45 minutes of hiking on an old logging road through 2nd growth forest. photo by Donn Soon after crossing back into the states we passed a posh cave that I wish was available on the N. buttress of terror. We followed a well maintained path through pretty Hemlock old growth forest climbers left of Depot Creek for about 4 miles That put us at the base of the impressive waterfall. I haven't seen a waterfall in the cascades backcountry that matches the sheer volume of this one. Several fixed ropes made the wet slab climbing less intimidating We climbed steep ground through alder, talus, and forest left of the main fall and were cooled by the mist. Soon we were atop the falls in a marshy/meadowy flatland infested with mosquitoes that allowed us first glimpses of the face. Photo by Donn Looking back down Depot Creek Valley and into Canada. From above the waterfalls it was only about 1.5 hours to Ouzel Lake. But we made the mistake of climbing up through alder to the left of the creek when we should have stayed closer to the water. We made it to Ouzel in roughly 5.5 hours from the truck and had the lake to ourselves. We were able to see the top of our route near camp, including the ice apron, arete that connects the apron to the hidden couloir, and the final couloir. photo by Donn photo by Donn The bugs forced us into the tent early and we both had restless nights. I dreamt that I was back in the cave on Terror. But it was more precipitous,and I was tied into a block that kept falling out. Shaking off the nightmares, we crossed an outlet of Ouzel Lake @ 5 a.m., the pain from the cold water bringing us to life. After a short scramble above the Lake we traversed on snow and slabs to the Depot Glacier Donn led us through a maze of crevasses and icefalls to the base of the apron. He set up a belay above one of the bergshrunds and I led up the apron. The snow was in good shape for kicking steps and we simul-climbed the entire apron. Deadmen pickets gave us decent protection and we were able to place screws in the ice under the shallower snow slush we found near the apron's crest. I belayed Donn from a crevasse near the top of the apron and he led the last hundred feet. The apron was about 700 feet of climbing. Donn has some good shots of climbing on the apron. Once on the arete above the apron, Donn led up to it's end and then traversed left and up for about 30 meters to the base of some easy rock climbing that enabled us to bypass the exposed entry into the hidden couloir. Indian paintbrush on the easy rock pitch leading to the hidden couloir After two short pitches of easy climbing we rappelled into the couloir. Donn led up to the right of the couloir for 200 feet, placing protection on the rock before traversing left under the cornice and topping out on the summit crest. The couloir was soft from baking in the sun all morning and was steeper than the apron. Donn started some wet snow slides as he traversed that picked up speed as they harmlessly rushed past me. We down climbed loose third class briefly and then traversed rotten ledges to the intersection of the south side route. We ditched our packs here and simulclimbed up easy ledges, through the cannonhole back to the northside, and then up 100 feet to the summit. The ascent had taken us 10 hours from camp. The views of Bear's North Face and the northern faces of both Picket Ranges were incredible. photo by Donn We did three raps from the summit and then downclimbed back to our packs. Donn rappelling under the cannon hole The descent was straightforward from there, following the path of least resistance back to the snow, which led us all the way back to the Redoubt Glacier. The long walk on the expansive and mellow glacier was enjoyable in the evening light. We made it back to camp 14 hours after setting out for the climb. We feasted and drank cold beers I'd stashed in the snow and scrapped any plans we'd had for slogging up Spickard the next morning. At that time, beers at boundary bay seemed more enticing than a scree fest. We slept for 11 hours and on our hike out the next morning passed at least four parties headed up to the lake. Overall, the climb was an exciting mix of rock, snow, and ice, and was worth the approach. Gear Notes: 60 meter 8mm rope, three pickets, three screws, 4 pitons (used one) handful of nuts, four medium cams (should of brought smaller ones), one axe, one tool, steel crampons, deet, headnet. Approach Notes: Depot Creek road driveable in 4WD up to washout (~2.5 miles up) Trail to base of waterfalls is in good shape, with signs of recent maintenance. Trail from waterfall to Ouzel Lake easy to follow.

Well done fellas. Thanks for the inspirational TR and beta about the gunrunner traverse.

pm sent

I'm looking to head up to Index this tuesday and wednesday if anyone is interested in joining me. I lead up to 5.10a trad. -Jason

hey all. I'm interested in climbing the burgner/stanley route on prusik peak july 20-22. If there is additional time I'd also like to check out the pearly gates out of leavenworth. I'm off to Redoubt/Spickard tomorrow through sunday, so I won't be able to get to a computer much before then. Call if interested. Jason 541-908-5205 jwschill@gmail.com

thanks for the great TR Steph. I'd like to echo Donn's comments about how the cohesiveness of our team and the patience/professionalism of Kelley Bush and the rest of the NCNP are the reasons that everything ended on a positive note. This is a trip and experience that I won't soon forget. Jason

hey all, Jason here. I want to thank everyone on this site for the encouragement and good vibes while I was hanging out on terror this past week. The sound decisions and efficient climbing of Steph and Donn saved Steve's life as well as mine the day of the accident. So many details added up to a happy ending to this ordeal. The decision to drop me some supplies while rescuing Steve was crucial, as was giving Steph and Donn a radio, which they used to direct me to the overhanging ledge where I holed up. Three stormy nights at my initial bivy site would have been grim. Lead climbing ranger Kelley Bush's calmness and amazing ability to lead rescue operations under pressure greatly contributed to the success of both rescues. Hearing her voice every morning and night on the radio was reassuring. I am grateful to Kvork Arackellian who rescued Steve and I on the hi-line and the helicopter pilot Tony who performed two extremely difficult rescues over the course of five days. Thanks all. I have the summer off and will be headed back to the hills soon after a short drinking vacation, if anyone is looking for a partner. I will be loosely based out of seattle.

Hi all, thanks for concern. Talked to J this morning and he's still warm at core and food supply okay. Tomorrow there may be a chance with the heli but no promises. Park service is on it, including thinking about ground options if he gets colder. We'd all prefer the fly-in though. -J's girlfriend

Nice work and pretty pictures Chris.

The Willamette Backcountry avi course wasn't opened to the public when I took it a few years ago. But it looks like OMA has one in addition to the mountain savy courses already mentioned: http://www.i-world.net/oma/trips/avalanche.html

btw Shapp, those are some bad-ass photos

I floated that section in March and was thinking the same thing. It would be nice to get in there and devote a day or two to scoping out some lines. I recall that some of the spires were several hundred feet in height.

Born and raised near Cleveland, Ohio College in Grantham, PA Wandering the western US 1998-2003 Oregonian 2003-Present

ummm yeah, you're right. But I was hoping for a nice approach, maybe even on skis once the snow starts to accumulate.

wouldn't the possibility of downed trees make it hard to follow the TJ trail? I've never been up the Elk Cove/Coe Glacier approach. How does it compare to the approach from Cloud Cap? Guess I could look at a map to figure that one out.

So what is it going to take to access the NF this year, a helicopter? If the TJ trail is toast and the road filled with downed trees, what viable options exist?

Hey Ian, I think we met three years ago at Wolf Rock when you were climbing with Deverton. I've seen you around over the years and at some of Logan's parties. I've never climbed with Tyler, but first started climbing in Oregon with skyclimb a while ago, who you may have climbed with. If you're still in corvallis, I'm always looking for new climbing partners. Jason

a valiant effort and wise retreat

Was just up at his old stomping ground, the Menagerie, a week ago. I though of him and was grateful for his bold pioneering climbs there.

Yeah Tyler, it was a sweet day up there. When did you last climb the west face? Judging from the small trees and thick mats of moss in the cracks, it seems like it's been neglected for some time. We did winter sunshine in one pitch.

Trip: Indian Summer in the Menagerie - Rooster Rock-West Face, Hen Rock-Winter Sunshine Date: 10/25/2008 Trip Report: Logan and I headed up to the Menagerie last Saturday for one last stab at summertime glory. We slept under the stars at the trailhead and didn't stir until the sun broke into the canyon at 10. The approach took just under an hour and put us at the base of Rooster Rock. We started with the "classic" west face route on Rooster. This route has some potential, but needs some gardening and a good scrubbing. Looking down from halfway up the first pitch The upper part of this pitch presented problems with a flaring chimney leading to an overhang, but redeemed itself with a nice hand crack in the moss. I pulled off large mats of the stuff and wondered about growth rates of moss, and when this route had last seen activity. I belayed Logan from a mossy ledge atop the first pitch and tried to clear the dirt and moss from my face. More awkwardness followed on the second pitch, but Logan led it elegantly. After exiting the awkwardness, a short but sweet open book led to the summit. Chicken Rock We opted to end the day with winter sunshine, a bolted route on Hen Rock's south face. Logan followed my thrashing and scratching lead, and we enjoyed a fine sunset on top and hiked down in the dark. Approach Notes: steep and sweaty

yeah Nate, that place is great. We stopped by today to see if they had any AT boots for Anna, to no avail.

A valiant effort. That rock looks awful.

nice photos Steph

check out this website: http://www.gravityadventures.net/guidebook.php Or contact Mirek through the site. He's a good guy and wrote the book. And I believe he put up a few of the climbs there.