tazz

the gully is out. It was melted out half way down. The rest is a free fer all! Crevasses are opening with very thin bridges. No snow after the pass except for a small section just below it that was almost melted out when there. I bet it is now as it is south facing. from the pass there was three sections of rock, scrub and boulder melted out before solid snow started. Deep runnels and sun cups in the lower area.

Come on! This shit is just too easy for you!! I think you need some pickets suffering to mix in with your rock skillz!

We took Buck Creek trail out from Buck creek pass. The route we planned was from Pass No Pass. There is a climbers track that takes you from the trail up to pass no pass. There is an avalanche path and debris in the hairpin turn on the trail, just before the climbers track. Its pretty easy to find.

I am not the best person to ask about seracs and climbing them. the seracs are large but I am unsure how large you want them to be...? I do know that the Crystal glacier was very active when i was there. I saw no activity from the sulphide. maybe someone who knows the glacier and its activity can help ya out better than i can. thanks folks

Thanks for the pics! yeah that line we took up was not the best runout. It worked well for the morning though. Ummmm... did ya know that you "borrowed" marmot food?

Trip: Buck/ Fortress HighTraverse 7/3-7/6 - what ever worked Date: 7/3/2009 Trip Report: Two years ago I tried for Buck solo, This is how it turned out. I have had this obsession every since. This time I planned 2 months in advance and asked some of my favorite folks to join me. My plan was to climb Buck and then traverse cross country to fortress and climb it. Now these folks are all crazy fast peak baggers and Bulgers list tickers. The area was perfect for folks to tag many peaks. I thought it was great that the “energizer bunnies” could have their list ticking fun! I am not much of a list ticker and have no problem parking my ass from 5pm to dark. They can’t sit for that long so they did what peaks they all could. The trip planning was working out perfect till I fucked it up! I was woken up by a vibrating phone. 7:45am!!!! Me, “Good morning Yana.... OH FUCK!!!” ....repeat for about 50 xs! I was supposed to pick up carla at 5 am !!! Shit, fuck, damn!! WTF???!!!??? I just came back from Shuksan and had not caught up on rest. My phone was unfortunately on vibrate. I slept right through the phone alarm and calls from my partners. What an idiot I am!! The only thing I could do at that point was tell them I would meet them at camp that evening. Started out at the th at 12: 15. Same timing as the last trip. I think Buck wanted me to do the entire shwack solo again! I rocked the bushwhack between the crossing and the ridge. Then laterally walked right up to the exit path into the basin. I think it took a total of 2.5 hrs from the crossing of Buck creek to the traverse across the basin. A walk in the park!! ;-) My group ran in to these guys(good climb guys! I was jealous) It seems I was the only one who didn't have an issue with the bushwhack... Although, I now cannot shave my legs due to the wounds and abrasions I have acquired. I may have lost a quart of blood on the bushwhack!! The route plan was to climb under the east buttress of Berge. When I finally caught them they had changed the plans and camp location. This would affect the rest of the trip. I didn’t care as long as they let me know what was up. We had radios for better communication. I was trying to get info from the folks in the lead. I got no response. I was ticked about the communication, or the lack there of. It was great up to this point. I was bonking and needed to know what folks planned on. I was told they would go up to a knob and then call me. They didn’t, they kept going and I had no idea what was going on...???!!??? I got a bit ticked about the communication but It was all cool and we all ended up in an incredible camp! [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2622/3701361914_50a5703a43.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3226/3701362184_90f4009cd2.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3455/3701362362_725f970bfd.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2520/3700554107_d43366cb0e.jpg[/img] The plans for Buck obviously changed due to camp location. Longer and harder but worth it! From high pass we descended, then back up the snow/pass of “doom!” Then drop down to Lewis basin then back up Buck. Then repeat the return trip. The crux of the day was a steep snow pass. We chose to climb the less steep part but it had bad runout. The other steeper section created by a cornice had good runout but DAMN steep!!! [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2449/3700555353_a9d667de8e.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3425/3700555189_367b6581ef.jpg[/img] This is where we saw the finger impressions in the snow from the two Berge climbers. He must of had a FAST ride down! weeeeeeee.......! We then picked and our way down to Lewis basin which is amazing!! [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2638/3700556441_9554e21437.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2429/3701365738_0a3bd46709.jpg[/img] Then it was time to finish Buck! 2500' later and fun C3 scrambling I was at the top! Whoo hoo! I gotcha Buck! [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3644/3700556893_e0606661d7.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3456/3701365178_2b34108ec5.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3497/3700558419_3b17f7a627.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2567/3701367208_62040da5d4.jpg[/img] That’s all I cared about and so the rest of the trip was just to be with the folks I love and the mountains I love! The summit is very airy!! Yummy!! Now it was time to reverse the trip back to camp. Folks headed up Berge and I kept going. Took a break at the pass waiting for folks. It was a quick summit for them. Time to descend the snow slope of DOOM!! I down climbed to the rock. Then 3 of us glissaded the slope. WEEEEEEE!!!...Fun!! That was FAST steep glissade! From there folks wanted to do point sumpin sumpin...summit.I wanted my advil and whiskey and no more pain! I enjoyed my time off and took pics of them bagging peaks with no name! ;-) [img:center]http://http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2433/3700560991_9aa83aac19.jpg[/img] I do have to say that Franklin hit 12 summits this weekend! MattB, hit at least 10. The others hit about 6-7 peaks. I lost track. Franklin took off in one direction and matt the other. It was like watching some weird race! [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3082/3700561239_9d7e44a70f.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3528/3700561547_85c797223c.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2480/3700561993_a8d8bf7744.jpg[/img] It was time to move on to Fortress. It was a great traverse with some steep snow traverses with crappy run out. [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2573/3700695077_cf2e1f6ed3.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2656/3701503208_c977dc6bd7.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3535/3700695401_332fa3b8f8.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2654/3700696175_8d5e7c7d4a.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3425/3701504406_15e3711b73.jpg[/img] The plan was to get to camp and then drop packs and climb Fortress. This was not going to happen for me. I was hurting on this day. I was in so much pain there was no way I was even going to try . I needed rest for my body. Baker attempt, then two days later Shuksan and then 24 hrs later I am thrashing my way up to Buck. My body was on strike and wanted rest! The others scrambled up Helmet Butte as I rested and wandered around the area and enjoyed the views. [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2643/3700695643_27c8d74347.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2526/3700695923_e62280b27d.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2625/3701504798_678c835f52.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2527/3701505020_f5e0baf6b1.jpg[/img] We could see the weather changing and hoped it would hold for our last day to get up Fortress. Three folks headed out after Helmet Butte and the rest of us set up camp. We walked up Flower Dome for a quick view of Glacier. By this time the weather was defiantly coming in. We woke to crappy fog and clouds and called it a trip. The 9 miles back out was a death march with 4-5 HUGE avi paths and debris to weave/thrash through. Lots of work to be done up in there!! All in all it was a great trip and I got Buck! That’s all that counts for me.... :-) 24000' of gain in 7 days has my body screaming at a me! Trying to tell it that it is good for it is not working...hah! This trip meant a lot to me. Thank you to the great folks who joined the fun with me. Gear Notes: helmets for those pesky rocks falling from slopes ice axe crampons (mainly used for steep slick heather slopes) Approach Notes: Bushwhack and try not to bleed!

NICE!!! I Know that snow slope shot! haha! Franklin saw the finger impressions in the snow. No ice axe? haha! That was a fast ride down that slope! weeeee.... hey there! I was the sloth you watched from your camp. ;-) My second time doing that bushwhack! I have now bid it farewell... FOREVER! Great work you two.

Well ya know I love my new rope... 8D Ok I am weird but not that weird! I didn't word that properly. I don't actually sniff the rope! yes good times! Thanks for adding your input and pics!!

there ya go...more pics. it is a nice route and very easy climbing! Much better than the fugly gully.

Trip: Shuksan - Suphide/SE Rib Variation The things I like about alpine rock. Its not snow! The slower pace and pure enjoyment. The communication between partners. The exposure! The smell of the rope when repelling. (Yeah I know I am weird) listening to gear clang around as your working your way up. The concentration and focus it takes. I could go on but won’t torture you all. BirdDog and I got together for a very fun climb of Shuksan. A few weeks ago he mentions Shuksan in an e-mail and I jumped all over it. I have never wanted to do the steep gully snow slog. Its enough of a snow slog on the Sulphide that I wanted to try out the SE rib route. Most of the route is exposed class 4 and can be simu climbed, but I wanted to work on my rope and multi pitch skills ( I am hoping to tag more alpine rock summits this year.) Plus the thought of pitching off without a belay just didn’t thrill me. We left camp along with the only other 2 parties on the peak. The other 2 parties took the gully. One of the parties of 3 we camped with. They are good folks so I took some shots of them and figured we would send it via e-mail. I love meeting other climbers out there! Climbers rock! We mounted the rib just above the first large notch. That was the hardest move of the entire climb. Low class 5. The rock is really good, I was surprised how good it was. Several pitches later and tons of fun we are on the summit. I have no words to describe how happy I was feeling. It has been a dream and a lot of hard work getting into Alpine rock and now I am HOOKED!!!! Pickets here I come!! A few repels and we were off. There are at least 3-4 rap stations through the gully The third rap station cannot be reached so one must scramble down to it on exposed class 3. All Have solid, good webbing. We wrapped up a perfect trip with the long slog across The sulphide. Bridges are thin and I was able to easily tap them and it just collapsed. All can be skirted around VERY easy but figured I would let ya all know its that time of year Its great when all falls into place a trip works so well. I want to thank BirdDog for being a great partner and leading the rib. Thanks for a great trip!!! [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3569/3682825364_00200d9ac0.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2425/3682012535_33c69e2f85.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3544/3682013023_5228f7b516.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2581/3682013477_7ca55701de.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2422/3682014427_ca6724a3f3.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2454/3682014741_ed35518d14.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3545/3682830356_42837e9369.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2674/3682016933_1ce8cf2c6d.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2630/3682830948_6a86c98b97.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2578/3682018861_0dfe410f6b.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2654/3682019079_6accd8be0d.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2570/3682019971_7d9d96b8c7.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2468/3682019761_c3d08c9ca1.jpg[/img] Gear Notes: small set of nuts webbing for slinging horns we used twin 30m alpine rope. crampons and ice axe Approach Notes: Crevasses are easily skirted, but the bridges are THIN! Snow starts just below Shannon ridge proper. Traverse is melting out. There is a great melted out camp with running water around 6200' or so.

Did you piss on them? Thats what I do when claiming something as mine in the alpine. I piss on it and say no one else can touch it! See once you piss on it no one wants to touch it! Better start drinking that H2O, you got alot of rock to piss on in order to claim it as yours!

another fun one again! Thanks!

here is a tr good beta by a good climber. go for it!

Good work gals! great climb!!! Thanks for sharing.

Got an e-mail from Geoff asking to join for a baker trip. I said, “sure!”. Then the next e-mail was, “what route?” My reply, “Boulder route!” Done, We had plans. Then weather messed with us for a week or so. Then it was on! I am not much of a volcano climber using the conga line dog routes . I have always wanted to do the Boulder Cleaver route On Baker. I knew the approach was more difficult, more gain (8000'), distance and had a small crux that keeps most folks out :-). Just my kind of approach, one that keeps others away! Plus it was fun! Great partners, views, route and pure fun was had!! Thanks Geoff and Chris! Some pics for you all to enjoy.

Yes the king and queen! beautiful! Good work to the both of you!

oh, pick it apart will ya! One of the best shot I have ever seen of prusik. Even kicks the larch seasons ass!

Hey Tim, that prusik shot sucks, could have found a nicer place to go with rain and clouds ya know. Sheesh it is so ugly there.

Hey folks. I figured I would post this here. Crappy weekend to get out and climb but if ya are look for this car at your TH if you are headed out. It says North Cascades so that a broad area!!! ___________________________________________________________________ To all, I just took a call from Deputy Toner of the Snohomish County Sheriffs Department. He was asking for our help in looking for a missing hiker reported to be somewhere in the North Cascades (I know that's a large area, that's why I'm sending this message out to such a large group). Please share with your employees that may be out at trailheads if they are not on this mailing list or won't see this message because they are already out there. The missing party did not let anyone know where he was going to hike. He last talked to his Dad on Sunday. He was expected to be hiking Monday through Wednesday. He has not returned and has missed two days of work, which is out of character for him. He has no history of mental illness or suicide. He supposedly is "experienced" in the woods, but is known to push himself. Vitals: Name: Mark Albrecht, DOB: 11/27/86, Driving a red Ford Thunderbird with Indiana License (number unknown). If found please contact Deputy Toner at the Snohomish County Sheriffs Department. Thanks for your help getting the word out. ^0^ ^0^ ^0^ ^0^ ^0^ ^0^ ^0^ ^0^ ^0^ ^0^ Peter R. Forbes District Ranger Darrington Ranger District 1405 Emens Street Darrington, WA 98241

there is a bit of beta on snow levels in these two trs pratt mt tr 6/12 melakwa lake tr 6/5

Abernathy!

CBS, yes one day. class 4 and low 5 for the summit block. A small gully to a choke stone that usually has ice over slab. then a funky step up to the true summit. Folks have different ways to get up that step...heh. a couple of trs for you. one linky two linky

I ran into this on Baring a week ago. You can tell at least 4 groups with different color tape marked the trail every 50' or so. The funniest thing is they all flag the SAME SPOT! . There is a cattle path the whole friggen way! Even in snow This is a strait forward route that should need NO to very minimal flagging!

whoo hoo! thanks!

Hey! Thanks for the link to your pics! haha! Yes great meeting you, so to speak. You have that name for a reason ya know! You are fast!Plus, you are a kick ass skier. I watched you two all day Sunday along while keeping tabs on all the skiers out there. Your style and experience makes easy on the eyes to watch and film. Almost pretty...yup I have a video of you. You are ripping down dragontail glacier. Your partner is in the last half. Unfortunately he took too long to drop in and my card ran out! So i hope you don't mind but figure you would want to see it. I put it to music as all the sound was wind, my partners yacking in the background and my breathing! Yuck! [video:vimeo] fast skinning guy from anne arnoldy on Vimeo. I also took a couple of pics... You can't be a climber/skier in a beautiful place, and sit in good lighting near my camp,in front of me! I am gonna shoot ya! It's a bad habit. I am glad you posted so I could get these to ya. :tup:What a great weekend to kick of the spring/summer season!