fheimerd

still looking for something solid...

Found laying at the base of cruisin. I've been hanging on to it but havn;t found the owners. If it's your send me a pm describing the unique gear tag and I'll get it back to you. I'm gone for two weeks so you'll have to wait for a reply Frank

sweet, thanks for the info.

Has anyone been up there recently that knows about what type of gear to bring. Do I need pitons, bashies, really small nuts, cam hooks etc?

Similar intersts. I've been working on aiding for a bit now and itching to get on some good introductory climbs down in yosemite. I've got the 21-15 of august to climb. Intersted? Frank

originally planned to climb some rock routes in th north cascades but my buddy is having to much fun in Peru so... Squamish, Yosemite, North Cascades, Tetons all possible. Have all gear and car lead 5.10 trad.

I looking for a partner from the 21st to the 25th. Are you or anyone else avaiable for climbing then?

found some sunglasses at beacon. THought they were my partners but they are not. PM me with a description and I'll send them to you. I'm out of town for three days so don;t expect a reply till then.

Look what fundamentalism brings people on a daily basis in the middle east right now. I looked at the route yesterday and the bolt. There first thing I noticed was a shit load of moss, then i saw a shallow dihedral with various clumps of grass and flowers growing out of it. Then i saw the bolt in question. I could see if peopl were freaking out about putting a bolt on a classic line that that has something to say to the climbing community but when I see reasonable richard I don;t think classic line and I don't think the bolt is destroying the wonderfull flavor of this moss and grasschocked approach route. Maybe if it were climbed and cleaned it taken care of it might be worth climbing but the current state of negect it has fallen into makes it a less than diserable experience.

I was there a few weeks ago and conditions were fine. The bergshrund had a bridge albiet a small one. Might be gone by now.

I would be siked to do it next thursday. Did the North ridg of stuart earlier this year and was glacing over towards dragontail thinking...

I'd put in a bolt, seems like ground fall potential is high if you were to peel off and a bolt might be needed. Off corse if any sortof prtection was available I would be against it but if there is not pro and ground fall potential it just makes common sense.

I might be interested. But I could only leave the 25th.

Nice job on that route. Was wondering how things went after chatting you at the base. The second pitch is definately one of the harder 10a's around. Got to love those stout climbs at beacon.

pm me if interested. Driving from portland if you need a ride. 5.8-5.10 trad is my preference

I'm heading out there right now. Look for me if your there before 3:00 Frank

I have climbed in mine for a year with several multi week trips and they are holding up fine. Like them alot but the did stretch a little bit to much. Just bought a piar of 5.10 Pitons. To supplement the shoe rack.

it all depends on how long you want to run it out. I think it would be doable without a large piece but we used one.

Anybody heading out to Beacon tomorrow. I will be there around 9:00 with a rack and rope. PM me if you want to meet up.

I actually originally posted this on accident and then went back and edited with details but the details somehow didn;t show up. SO here is the beta. Dan M and myself approached via mountaineers creek. On the way in we found a cairn path through boulder fields above the creek on the west side of the slope. On the way out we found a easy trail along the creek. Next time I'm following the creek in. The trail picks up about 1/4-1/2 of a mile after the stream crossing. We started the climb at 3:30am and were back at camp in the basin at 8:30pm. The route starts on the east side of the lowest point of the north ridge. Look for a hand size crack in a corner. I figured I was on route because I bootied a green alien. Then just go up the ridge finding easy climbing wereever possible. The crux/Gendarme has a layback crack and a off width. Both reasonably rate at 5.9. WE hauled up our day back. The decent was down Sherpa Glacier. Kicking steps in soft snow with tennies and self belaying with an ax. It was tiresome work. We eventually switched to rappeling the final bit to the glacier. There is a sizeable bergshrund that is still easily passable via a snowbridge. In a couple of weeks it will be a pain. Once we got to camp we packed up and hikes out. 12:00 at the car. A 20 hour day, not including the 5 hour drive back to p-town. There's what beta i got. The only thing really useful that I didn't find anywhere else was about the approach trail and conditions of sherpa. All around awesome climb.

Beacon tomorrow anyone. Just got back from Stuart so a little cragging would be more my thing.

Climb: Mt. Stuart-Complete North Ridge Date of Climb: 7/2/2006 Trip Report: Gear Notes: medium rack, two 8mm ropes, tennis shoes, light ice axe

I woudn'tgo at that road with a suburu wagon...unless it's jaced up and has fat tires but I have heard that it has been done so make your own call on that one. We had a toyotoa truck and the road wasn't an issue. Another possibility is to hike an additional five miles in from the lower trailhead and skip the shitty road. Long approach but less risk on your car. The City of rocks was sweet. We climbed in the 5.7-5.10 range and ticked many sport and trad classics. M highlights were rye crisp, bloody fingers and My own provate idaho. Thanks to Jlag for taking me out the and showing me the sickness.

can anybody give me a quick explanation on why my picture in the post isn't coming up and why I can't post a actual trip report in the idaho forum.

Jlag and myself spent a few days in Idaho. We began the trip with three stellar days of climbing at the City of Rocks. Over the weekend things got hot and crowded and we decided to give the finger a try. We drove two to three hours to a town around Sun Valley and got some excellent beta from folks at the elephant perch climbing shop. Route photos, recent conditions and somebody saying go for it was all we needed. After the bumby road we reached the tailhead and started the hike. From the moment we left the car till the moment the sun went down we were attacked by swarms of mosquitoes. The initial plan was to walk in a few miles to the first lake but we ended up trying to escape the mosquitoes by going higher. We got to a few hundred feet below the climb and bivied there. The next day we hiked to the base and had our first look at the open book we would be climbing. There was a snow slope at the base but other than that the route was completely free of snow. It looked good, damn good. Before long we were jamming and laybacking up the open book on some of the cleanest alpine rock I have ever climbed. Before long we were out of the open book and climbing up the face to the summit block. This was my favorite pitch. Awesome double cracks, sun, exposure and a great view. The decent was a cinch and before we knew it we were sitting in lawn chairs cooling our feet in the creek and sipping on PBR's.