David Trippett

plenty of nice flat bivy spots for you as well.... In yet another example of your intellectual hubris....I don't recall saying anything about your nationality....you did. only questioned your familiarity with the metric system...all in good fun by the way....but somewhere it all went terribly wrong.....why is that? Ask yourself that. well....to be fair I never made any claims regarding the usefulness of the site for the average "guy/gal". I just thought it a cool site. Since jmace seemed so intent on trolling for a confrontation and flexing what must be substantial intellectual powers.... I thought who am I to deny him his hearts desire? If your intention was to educate us jmace then you would have done so...but since it was not....and you got what you asked for....do us a favour and don't act so surprised. It really does you no justice. Thus endeth the lesson.

or to Dru on how to utilize "the internet"

Thanks for the advice seabreeze....Is Momma Mace on her usual corner? I didn't know I needed to add a disclaimer "no retards". Do you have a specific question regarding the map? Why don't you formulate one then and get back to me champ.

Those are Mb Millibars of atmospheric pressure....not m Meters....perhaps your lack of familiarity with what the rest of the planet calls "The Metric System" is a real handicap ... you should stick to Al Roker and pictures of happy little suns...

nothing if you can't read a weather map.

Anybody else been on this route in the winter? Is it normal to Bivy? From Ade's report from the west face I saw that they bivied twice....but that was a new route.

Heres a good link to the west coast weather picture. http://squall.sfsu.edu/crws/press.html http://squall.sfsu.edu/gif/sathts_pac_500_00.gif

Climb: Mt Index-North Face Attempt Date of Climb: 2/11/2006 Trip Report: After a week of watching the weather report get better and better and knowing it would be a full moon....my Aussie mate Logan and I set our sights on a one day ascent of the North Face of Mt. Index. After a uneventful drive down from Vancouver friday night we pulled into Index and sorted gear and left the trailhead at 2am Saturday morning. The approach was pretty amazing with the peaks and forest bathed in moonlight. The wind was pretty strong near the start of the climbing....but we found a calm bit below a wind lip and dug a bench and threw down the ridgerest and waited for the sun. This was our first time on the mountain so neither of us knew what to expect. Around 6am or so we soloed up the first few pitches until we arrived at the beginning of the "slabby traverse to hidden ledge" and we pulled the rope out. I led across this ledge then up and to the left to a belay in some trees. Logan then led out of the trees to a belay at the top of a snow slope...at this point the summer route continues right to some mid 5th class below the North face bowl....I opted to stick to the blunt ridge to the left of this and found a fine traverse that led to a point near the top of the North Face Bowl. Before the traverse, Logan led what will heretofor be known as "The Lead". From an adequate belay just before the traverse Logan led up two meters so that we could get a better look at the traverse. Then he brought me up. After "The Lead" I traversed into the Noth Face Bowl and brought Logan over. We figured we had quite a bit of climbing remaining and since we only brought a simgle 8mm x 60m we decided it was time to go down. It was pretty hard decision, particularly in such nice weather. But we had slowed down a bit and had now been awake for almost 36 hours. We preceded to rap off trees until we came to point above a face where the rope wouldn't make it all the way to the next snow field. I rapped first and had to do some tricky tensioning to the left across an icy corner to access a rappel stattion consisting of a 20 year old blade that was tied off to something that was hidden under the snice. I finally found a placement and backed up the blade with a tied off bugaboo and down I went. Logan said it was fun to watch the old blade rock about as I started the free hanging portion of the rap. We made it down to the initial snow field and put in a bollard, made another rappel and finished with some spicy down climbing and yet another rap off a questionable pin. On the way down to the car around 7pm we ran into a couple guys just below Lake Serene on their way up. Their names were Wayne and Zach. If anyone knows them I think they might have lost some gear....contact Ade or Stuart. It was a fun, challenging route. Now that I know the route and descent I'd like to go back and finish it. Next time we'll take another rope. P.S. My marked line of ascent is a bit off....sue me. Gear Notes: 3 blades 2 angles mudium nuts lots of slings 1 60m rope 2 stubby screws 3 medium cams The Rock was rather compact in spots. Most of pro we found was slinging trees and such. Approach Notes: Approach was fine, mostly dry until around 2500ft....icy in spots.

Nice work lads!....We made it to near the top of the north face bowl on saturday before the long, complicated descent with a single 60m rope. We were going for single day ascent....but it was not to be. I heard word of an epic by another party....any news? Did you get to enjoy that abseil off the 20 year old blade?.

no reference to your comments was intended mattp...

I won't make fun by bring your select guidebook.....but I might make fun your english.... Eric. Just so things are clear...turnabout is fair play, mate. You guys did great on the mountain. I'm sure you don't need me to tell you that. There is really no need to explain your route choice as its obvious that, regardless, you guys were having fun and putting it out there.

don't worry...you can stand on my shoulders if there are....since you like to avoid cruxes.....

not until i get that romantic weekend in Banff you promised sweetcakes...kisses.

looking at that photo it appears you took a rope....what happened hot shot?

A geological field assistant is required this summer (july-august) for 1.5-2 months of paid field work in the Northern Selkirks of B.C. for mapping and sample collection. This helicopter accessed work will take place in and near the Adamant range and require an individual that has a solid alpine and rock climbing background as well as a strong background in the earth sciences. All expenses will be paid during the work period. First aid training and firearm experience required. This is a fine opportunity for individuals looking to spend part of the summer in a remote mountain region aiding a scientific project as well as an opportunity to have unique access to some rarely visited mountain groups in central B.C. Professional and Climbing CV's can be submitted to avitripp-at-gmail-dot-com as well as any requests for additional information. Canada citizens preferred, but consideration will be given to those of other nationalities with appropriate skill sets. NO DECISIONS WILL BE MADE UNTIL MAY/JUNE 2006.

I was wondering why all the 7-11s in the region were suddenly out of ketchup packets....

by "climb" do you by chance mean solo with said person attached to the opposite end of the rope?

I was up on the north face of Index saturday....the falls were not even close to frozen. The north face route is in good shape though...

Maybe the solution is to not try to restrict access....but to increase it...hear me out for a second....in Squamish, when the Chief was still a place where people went to get drunk and listen to Foghat on their amps that went to 11...it was difficult to encourage these people to behave themselves when there was little incentive for the authorities to police them. Today the Chief is a popular spot for the young urban set as well as families...and it should be. It's a beautiful spot to be enjoyed by all. I have been up to that look-out on Index after topping out on Davis-Holland/Lovin Arms and it is a great spot. These kind of places are something that the locals cherish because they are beautiful and free and they consider them their territory. They are not. This spot is PUBLIC. If you want to stop the bullshit....then start to talk about IMPROVING the access.....Get funds from some source to put up railings , little geology info signs, an outhouse, whatever....make it somewhere that people want to go on the weekend for an outing. "Hey honey lets hike up to the Index lookout" etc..... If you want the rednecks to behave them don't try to do it with signs and exclusionary tactics....thats why all the signs in the countryside are full of bullet holes. Make the area "un-redneck-chique" and they will go somewhere else. I guarantee you the first time some Microsoft exec comes up with their family and sees Jethro tossing his bottle of Jaeger off the wall and the cops get called....things will change fast. The question is....who do want up there? The hillbillies or the yuppies? Index is a gem. It is ripe for some serious development. Look at Squamish ten years ago....now property values are through the roof. You need to think about those who are exploiting it and those who are going to in the future...the difference is the amount of power the groups wield. Take heed....set the groundwork now and you will protect the area from exploitation of a grosser type. I think it may be time to think about forming an STRONG(this means all those high profile mountaineers with powerful friends you guys have in Seattle) access society for Index....if there isn't already one....and secure the funds to improve the lookout. Instead of trying to exclude the locals....include them....and everyone else. As long as the climbers avoid taking an adversarial stance and approch the problem from creating universal access(government agencies love this) you will in turn ensure access for ourselves and others who wish to use the area in a respectful manner. The locals will have to behave because their actions will no longer be able to remain from public scrutiny. As long as we afford these people the veil behind which to act out, then we cannot expect the authorities to take notice....and it is only a few bad apples to be sure..... Our desire to preserve these spots for ourselves is the achilles heel...to preserve access we have to share and secure these places for all. I am not suggesting building a gift shop and selling T-shirts, as I am sure some will....but the sooner you set the tone for the use of Index the better. Those responsibe folks in the 4x4 community will no doubt want to preserve their access as well... and they should have it. Once they realize that they risk losing it if they don't get rid of the drunken toilet tossing minority...then they will come around as well. All I know is that Index is a special place and is subject to a lot of usage conflicts...be the ones that solve the problem through consensus building and you will ensure access for climbers. Don't wait untill there is a Walmart in Index and a charge lot at the parking spot. My .02 Canadian

get an old bicycle tube or tubes from the bike shop for free....one of the thin road bike ones that will fit snug on a screw(700 x 20)....cut lengths to fit over your screws ....this will keep the threads protected and you won't care when you lose them.

not evo gtx

inverted layback?

wanna trade for leverlock?

.

What if I solo the Cassin Ridge naked via the direct bouldery start variation? I'm sorry, but I dont want the same sad-ass patch as the rest of the heathen gumby mule-train masses. Is there some sort of epaulettes or medallions.......ala Central African Dictator...... I can add on to signify my greatnitude?