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Everything posted by 111
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[TR] Smith Rocks - Monkey Face/Zebra Zion/etc 3/11
111 replied to olyclimber's topic in Oregon Cascades
Whaddaya know, I met the famous Oly and didnt even know it. I was Corvallisclimb's partner. -
I say we start a sting operation, then shove a #3 BD up they asses and pull.
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looks a little slick. I betcha it would only be V5 if they took a powerwasher out there.
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does anyone know if the rock at Columns in Eugene is Columbia River Basalt?
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it all about the "no fall" climbing ethic. Just don't fall and we won't have any problems!
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In moab there is Cane Cr., Wallstreet, Indian creek, Icecream parlor. if you want 5.7-5.10 trad/sport mix there is ice cream parlor. Wall street also has some good 5.10+ trad cragging. Cane Creek has some adventurous longer routes.
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Crimson Chrysalis is a must do. 5.8 classic 10p. Often has a line though. If you do Solar Slab, make sure to do the Johnny Vegas start. It is much more aesthetic than the mossy original line.
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With the warm temps I wouldnt want to be anywhere near the pearly gates or west crater. It was probably raining ice chunks.
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Woot! for the SAR guys!
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Yea, I guess I got the date wrong too. We were there friday night/sat morn.
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Trip: Mt. Hood - West Crater Date: 1/28/2007 Trip Report: Not much in this, but we tried to go up West Crater and only made it to the top of the parking lot because of the 35+ mph gusts. Watched a bunch of headlamps descending from hogsback at 3:30 am. Bummer dude!
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I will be up there with a seperate group but say hi if you see a guy in green/black!
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Oregon has some fun, albeit obscure cragging around the Willamette Valley. After my 3000th trip to smith, it was nice to go some place that was close and empty. The guidebook descriptions are often way more interesting/vague too, making just getting to the climb that much more exciting. Menagerie Wilderness, Wolf Rock, Columns, The Garden, Broughtons, The list goes on...
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for easy long routes you can have the middle person on the line with a prussic they slide with them.
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you could "volunteer" there and get in for an after hours boulder session. Maybe even hook up with that hot penguin vetrinarian...
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I've got some 3/16 in., 800 lb test chain and I was wondering if that strength would be suitable for use in building a permanent top anchor for a sport climb. If I were to put several washers on the outside of the chain and then put the bolt into the rock would that work for a toprope anchor?
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a friend was bow hunting in the snow and doubled back to find cat tracks not 10 minutes behind his. he followed the tracks and they ended up doubling back on him and then disappearing into a tree. On a seperate note, a bear was just killed in benton county and the carcass was dropped off in McDonald Forest. Bear claw neclace anyone? Cougar scat is fairly common on the trails in mcdonald forest. We see it all the time while working on trails there.
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newbie question about MonkeyFace @ Smith Rock
111 replied to MountainGirl_Boston's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
especially in the dark on a moonless night. -
Climb: Mt washington and 3 finger jack in a weekend-N. Ridge Washington, S. Ridge 3FJ Date of Climb: 8/6/2006 Trip Report: Logan, myself, and a new climber I met at OSU headed out to the big lake TH friday night to get an early start on washington. the hike in was fast and we made it to the N ridge notch at about 10:30, just ahead of a group of 5 Mazamas. I led the 3 pitches, as I had followed them before. We made it to the top in fine fashion and chatted with the mazamas once they got up there. The strangest thing about the summit that day was the amount of flying and crawling insects. There were flies and flying ants EVERYWHERE. eating became a chore of watching constantly to make sure nothing flew into the trail mix bag. We were able to prussic down the top pitch on the mazama's fixed line and then rapped the last two (I wasn't comfortable with downclimbing some of that stuff unprotected). Trundled some huge stones on the scree slope and got one to jump into the air about 20-30 feet. Sweet. Three finger Jack was a longer hike in but more interesting. Hiking through the burn was really neat. The climbing was very steep scree with solid rock interspersed. We also roped up the whole time after the crawl and simulclimbed the traverse slinging chicken heads mostly. A steep two pitch in a natural chimney on poor rock leads to a knife edge summit that had orange monarchs(?) swarming around. One of the climbers I was with is a geology major and he was having the time of his life inspecting all the rock and layers as we climbed. There is even Smith Rock tuff up there! The hike out turned shitty when I stopped to retrieve a water cache and found that someone had stolen my nalgene. Bastards! Gear Notes: Washington; red camalot (key for 1st pitch), nuts, hexes. 3FJ; lots of big slings for chickeneads, hexes, and large nuts for the summit pitches.
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thanks everyone. I'll post a TR when we get back.
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Any snow on either route this time of year? How hard are the pitches on 3FJ?
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I am heading off this weekend to climb washington and 3 finger jack. I have been up washington but never 3FJ. What should I expect? anyone been up there recently (saw the earlier Mt Washington TR).
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that is such crap. Sticky fingers suck and should be chopped off.