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Climb: Maiden Peak XC Shelter- Date of Climb: 1/14/2006 Trip Report: Just reporting on the trip in to the shelter. If you like to showshoe or XC this shelter is plush for overnight stays. Its heated by a big wood stove, well insulated, fully enclosed building and you could probably fit about 30 people in there in a pinch. I would highly suggest skiing in to this if you have a weekend. We went from Willamette Pass ski area and the hike was about 6 miles in. It took a long while because we were breaking trail in a snowstorm for about half the distance. Gear Notes: All you really need to bring to this place is a sleeping bag, food, stove and pad. If you really want to go light you can cook on the wood stove but it takes a while longer to heat stuff. Oh, and there is also the mandatory bottle of wine for any hunnies you might meet at the shelter. (tequila might be a good idea too) Approach Notes: first 3 miles are a popular day trip and there is a distinct packed trail, but after that you might be breaking trail. Dont expect anything too strenuous though.

Thanks for sending the letter JH. I think that has helped us all understand the issue a little better. Does anyone know if it is a common practice to do in-house brazing or do most cam makers send the cams away to another company for the brazing?

Way to rock the Old E. A true climbers beer and familiar to the Grasslands.

Aat In The Hat is a classic 6p 5.6**** It is gear and doesnt get a ton of sun, but definitely would be ok. Dont bother with anything that doesnt get sun. I was on Crimson 3 weeks ago and that was kinda hellish with the cold. The turnouts get great sun if it is cold/clear and will be the warmest spots. Great Red Book is at the 2nd turnout and is a nice multipitch.

how will the poll work? a poll on each photo?

I love that their website touts the strength of the brazing and the error proof machinery. And how is it that all their recalled cams happen to have a dimple on them??? That seems a little suspicious. Like they were planning it from the start... They PLANNED to go out of business back in November 04! I got that company figured out. Good thing mine made it by 6 months

I noticed a few days ago that there was a lot of speculation on a recall of some aliens on some other climber boards. Anyone have any more info about that? Have they issued a recall yet? In general, it seems to me that the problems have just sprung up in the last year. True? Are my aliens stamped "0304" ok? I( love the little things and don't want to stop using them, but the rumors and photos are getting me curious...

come out to the group cg at RR and chill with the group in the white E-350 while your there if you want company. It'll be a bunch of oregon folks.

The bottom sole of my climbing shoes is delaminating from the uppers along theedge of my shoe. are there any suggestions as to a glue that will keep this from enlarging that will still allow a resole alter in time?

now i know what i am going to do when snowed in. Make a story line!

Yep, I'd fuck it.

bouldering: sisters Climbing: crash & burn at Wolf rock Humor: chicken, fire, beer. what else do we really need??? Ice: rime on Hood Scenic: view from Hood As a side note; great pictures all!

I was at Colchuck Lk. last week and was trying to do some field repair on my Dragonfly stove. Popped the whole thing apart, fiddled with it, and when I put it back together the top cup was missing (the small cup shaped device that deflects the flame from hitting the pot bottom directly). Does anyone know where I can find one of these for sale?

can we just continue to post the new pics here?

I turned around at the hogsback but it sounds like the Bergschrund filled in with those avalanches off the pearly gates. Saw headlamps halfway up the Pearly Gates at 4:00am so people were able to get that far.

Climb: Mt. Hood-South Side Date of Climb: 11/17/2005 Trip Report: As the other TRs indicate, the south side needs a little more snow. Make that a lot more snow. The climb was wonderful with good climbing up to crater rock but our group wasn't comfortable going above that. Still, the full moon and still air made the climb more than worth it. check out photo 136 and zoom in on the Pearly Gates; is that an avalanche from the day before? There is a photo of a pit we dug near crater rock. There is one 2 inch ice layer in between two 6 inch dry crumbly layers of snow. http://oregonstate.edu/~rothi/Mount%20Hood/P1010029.JPG http://oregonstate.edu/~rothi/Mount%20Hood/P1010038.JPG http://oregonstate.edu/~rothi/Mount%20Hood/P1010040.JPG http://oregonstate.edu/~rothi/Mount%20Hood/P1010064.JPG http://oregonstate.edu/~rothi/Mount%20Hood/P1010073.JPG http://oregonstate.edu/~rothi/Mount%20Hood/P1010092.JPG http://oregonstate.edu/~rothi/Mount%20Hood/P1010111.JPG http://oregonstate.edu/~rothi/Mount%20Hood/P1010129.JPG http://oregonstate.edu/~rothi/Mount%20Hood/P1010135.JPG http://oregonstate.edu/~rothi/Mount%20Hood/P1010136.JPG Gear Notes: never even got to put on a harness. Approach Notes: nice firm crust to walk on the whole way up. hardly post holed at all.

What a great guy. Go figure he'd be holding out on us for a few of his hidden climbs. You'll be climbing some FA somewhere someday and find an old Becky piton on your "unclimbed" route. He was always there first

I have a question on altering established routes. So say the first ascentionist has died and I want to add another bolt/piton/fixed gear. How do I go about getting permission to retrobolt/nail if I can't get the FA's permission? I am not considering doing this at all, it's just a hypothetical question that noone I know has been abe to agree on an answer. What do you think?

I gotta say, I am going to stop watching the news and jsut start checking cc.com more frequetly. The quality and professionalism of the news reporting here is of such a higher quality than abc, cnn, nbc... Maybe given the time and support, the spray section could really evolve into a reputable global news source . (it really is global as far as climbing news is related)

I read recently that they are trying to put a bunch of wind mills out in cape cod and there is a whole group of residents fighting this because their horizon will be ruined. Howsabout we look ahead 30 years when oil is going to be 10$ a quart ...that energy source is looking pretty good now huh? It just angers the hell out of me that people can be so selfish. As long as it wasn't in a wilderness, I wouldn't mind having windmills spinning over my favorite crag.

Fall will not be here for another month at least! FIGHT IT OFF! Never give in! Summer forever! The southern hemisphere is where you should go for ice and a lack of tourists. Skyclimb and Thad figured that out (incedentally they both returned to the states the other day unharmed)

As a route setter, the imprint walls are a pain in the ass. I would much rather be able to bolt on a couple of big angle additions, roofs... to a plywood wall and put hold on that, than have to deal with the weird shapes and contures of imprint. Granted, the big wigs at OSU wanted something pretty to impress the nice people who give OSU grants, but it is really frustrating to try and set on imprint.

Foster Resivoir near Sweet Home OR has some cliffs. (also a popular 30-35 ft jump spot) drive east on hwy 20 and turn left at green peter dam sign, drive over 2 or 3 bridges and the last one has some pull outs at the north west shore. the cliffs are visible from the bridge. the trail shouldnt be more than 200 yards long.

Mooner, when are you going up there? Col and I might come with you.

A friend of mine found this problem(?) out after he got some camalots mailed to him. It wasn't just a gap on the axle, the lobes were so out of whack one side wouldn't expand unless pulled outward with force. I would consider this a major design problem if the play on the axle caused the lobes to stick. I believe they were catching on the spring.