bigwallpete

I believe that the duffey is probably in great shape right now. Anyone interested in hooking up tomorrow am or thursday to go check on conditions and get a little early coastal ice in? As long as you know how to belay and have your own boots/crampons/tools your good to go. Let me know @ peterandmountain at hotmail dot com

pics are posted on the mcr (mountain conditions report) on the acmg website. Heres a link http://acmg.ca/mcr/

there is a rope set up for top rope on the left hand of the two drilled hole routes on the kacedemon. On of the screw on holds broke last time I was up will be fixed by me by next weekend, Feel free to lap on the rope (always tie the ends together to inspect rope before climbing) The right line is a bit of a peg board with one hard undercling section and the left is more powerful and technical until the angle straightens out then its pretty peggy. temps are looking good in Lillooet for the upcoming week, hopefully will be out soon on something on the wet coast

Mountain hardwear Transition Jacket or pull over. These pieces are used with nothing underneath and provide wind/water proofness and are versatile for touring as well. My 2 cents

A friend of mine was working for the crew that put it in. $20/hr fixing up huts sounds like a good gig. THese guys climbed some one pitch climbs on Rethel with nothing of quality to report. But there you have it anyway.

so your chalk there today. What a great route that was my first time up Yak Check. Don, Did you lose any gear that you want to reclaim.PM me

where did you find any info on this? I've been surfing hard and nothing. If so very said day. Like when Trevor died. DOUG WOULD DO IT TOO!!!!

those pics are not of Snowspider but of Mt. Howard. Nice pics.

binding system works great on the sarkens. You need to wear your boots to make it easy though.(versus fitting the crampon for length and not putting the boot on) Why the dart in such a light weight crampon why not the dart.

I have a very capable skier friend who I know wants to ski it and has been in the lower section before on planks. The key to me would suggest to climb the ramp to its top where there are a couple of misc big trees before it goes up the final steep slope into the traverse from the NW ramp to the Nface,put on the boards and have at er. From watching the route the last 3 years I would say that a good local dumping of snow on a signifcant base, say locals reporting 250 to 300cm, with blue bird skies forecasted wait a good couple of days and have at er. REMEMBER TO CHECK NORTH SHORE AVALANCHE ADVISORY The danger on that ramp would be a sluff pushing you into the wall below the crux where it turns skiers right. Its worth doing because it hasn't been done and it only would take you 4-5 hours to complete , versus slogging up the sw ridge for probably more hours and problems gaining the top of the ramp . GIven all this info I wouldn't ski it or even dream of it put thats guz thats not my gig. But after seeing the difference between 3yrs ago, last year and this season twice I would believe that skiing it would be a great half day in the hills for the right folk

5hrs is what I have heard, pretty sure the story was a solo for Guy. THe best part is comparing times it takes for certain sections. We simul-climbed the whole route placing between 1 -2 pieces per 60m and took a lot longer at the technical? sections were as our fitness allowed for a fast approach and descent. The original post in this thread talked of 1hr15to climb the ramp we took a lot longer Here was the break down for us. 1hr30min approach to base of couloir/top of scree slope. 15min gear up 2hr45min to climb route to summit with 15min lucnh stop included.No view on the summit because of crappy weather so no time wasted except to coil the rope. 1hr45min descent to car. Taking off and putting on crampons twice on the way down. Ran the final road back to the car, had to be home for a course. IT obviously is a condition dependent story. For us down through the open forest was easy because of snow conditions where as last year it was slow ass because of an ice crust. Anyways solo would be the way to go. HAS IT BEEN SKIED??? Is the Royal Flush, T.R, somewhere around the Lions or Crown?

got out onto the route yesturday. I can't believe the different shape that this one can be in. ALmost all evidence of previous ascents had vanished via the spindrift. Conditions were shall we say thunker. I went up to try this early in the year(dec/nov) and found only rock in the shallow areas and bottomless snow everywhere else. This time you didn't even realize were the cruxs might be found. Great day out yesturday 6hr15mis ctc, but mostly cause there was no vis on top so we just started right down. Definetly not that cold yesturday. I should mention that the snow in the forest was scetchy in some parts, with a bomber ice crust over top of the untracked and it was like a skating rink in the tracks. Looking outside it looks like we might have to wait a bit again for better conditions.

those are splitter cams. An add on to the aid rack. The 2lobe ones are more versatile then the 4 lobe ones. I'd spend my money on hybrds(aliens) and more reg aliens before I bought any more. My 2 cents

My plans for an ice trip have falling through does anyone have any experience in Bishop in the middle of winter. How quick does it dry given that it just snowed 8inches there in the past 24hrs???? Any help would be great. Thanks Peter

check pms. Thanks for the offer

Looking for anybody interested in heading to the rockies this week, my partner got hit with the flu yesturday and is now on penicillin and is probably not going to be well enough to take off this week. Peter email me or reply if interested or have any knowledge of what it is like to pick up a belay in a place like haffner would be.

On thursday, my buddy and I went up onto the North ramp of Harvey. Condition were to say the least unconsolidated. We wallowed our way upwards to past the crux corner which had no Ice in it at all, and because of time of day decided to just descend then deal with more trenching that was about to come. Hike in was good until the boulder field below the ramp which sucked ass and was like walking from one balance board to the next. The way down was worse causing me to rip my new paclite pants several time well post holling into the abyss. Need some warm weather to get some moisture back in the snow. there was about an inch of ice at most anywhere on the route. Avalanche conditions were good with only about a 5 to 10cm windslab in some isolated spots. We rapped the bottom of the ramp via an icicle and a small cedar branch because going up was all on snow covered rock/slab. Bounced the shit out of the anchor once down and it didn't fail. wow.

Went to a product knowledge for a retail store when the mini traxion first came out and the rep was saying that tring was well within the design of the device. We all took turns falling onto it that day and I have used it ever since for solo tring. The trick was clipping a bag to the bottom of the rope to give it some weight.

the only pitch that seemed very different then the Beckey topo was the 3rd last pitch. 5.7 into an alcove then 5.6 sheraton slesse. My advice would be to stay on the crest for that pitch staying left of the fixed pin 65ft out or so. allowing no rope drag and 165ft pitch. There was a fixed nut they way we went through the roof crux. I left it. My partner said he pulled onit so maybe someone else will too.

I drank there too on Friday. After climbing the route thursday in similiar style except we sleeped in the heather/krumholtz just south of the wooded knoll after loosing the trail in the fading light. Word of advise, the shower you get at the drip on the wall can be avoided by walking another five minutes tops to a nice clean looking stream. Nice work guys. I also carried 3liters and my partner carried 2 and was fine. But my body still tells me that it felt like 10l of water for that 27hrs instead of the five it got.

Just found info at http://www.komotv.com/news/story.asp?ID=31776 It isn't good news 1 person dead and the other still missing and presumed dead. My thoughts are with there family and friends. Be safe out there

thanks for the info. Thats about what I could figure. I don't have a bike so I'm going to push the weather luck for fri, sat. Once the road is open. Squamish should be able to satisfy me the rest of the week.

I got the same info this am from the national parks people. The staff I talked to didn't know about the road gate position.

Were is the white river road gated. Is it only 4 miles or so. Or is it at the park entrance. Any info on carbon glacier approach Thanks

Hey wondering if you need a permit before May 1??? Did anybody go that said they were?, and if how was it? Any recommendations towards ski/snowshoe?? Thanks Hoping to head down tomorrow.