John_Scurlock

I seem to recall that burning about fifteen or more years ago. As I recall, it was a lightning-caused fire that the FS did not fight. We saw your name in the "register", which unfortunately was very wet inside, even though the JD bottle was capped and upside down in the cairn. We got the paper out and dried it, then replaced it into triple ziplock bags, since we didn't have a proper register, then buried it all in the cairn. If someone goes up there again it would be nice to take a proper container along. It looked to me like Loomis gets about one ascent per year..or less. It really is a fantastic viewpoint of the south side of Baker, and brush aside, I recommend it. From our aerial recon, I'd say the W side of Loomis is formidable at the very least....many huge cliffs and towers, all very ugly looking.

Trip: 1912 -2012 Loomis/Welsh Centennial Expedition - Loomis Creek/South Face Date: 9/16/2012 Trip Report: On September 16, 2012, I joined with six other intrepid climbers on the 1912-2012 Loomis/Welsh Centennial Expedition, to ascend Loomis Mountain and re-create a historic photograph of Mount Baker taken in 1912. This photograph, taken by an enigmatic photographer named E.D. Welsh, hung on the wall of the Koma Kulshan Guard Station for many years, until it was moved to the Mount Baker Ranger District office in Sedro Woolley. The original Welsh photograph: [img:center]http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/74122700/large.jpg[/img] Our centennial re-creation photograph obtained on September 16: [img:center]http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/146105105/large.jpg[/img] Dave Tucker, renowned Mount Baker expert and Spiritual Leader of the Mount Baker Volcano Research Center, has posted a detailed account of the expedition at this link, 2012 Loomis-Welsh Centennial Expedition Thanks to the Mount Baker Volcano Research Center and North Cascades Institute for sponsoring our adventure. We also offer thanks to both Birdsview Brewery and the Train Wreck Tavern in Burlington for providing great venues for post-expedition review and lie-telling. I'm sure many of you who climb anywhere in the Skagit watershed will agree that these two establishments are fine places to re-hydrate after doing battle with the classic mountain landscapes of the North Cascades. Gear Notes: Gloves are desirable. Wear clothing that you don't care if it gets ripped to shreds. A sense of humor is mandatory. This is a non-technical climb unless you find yourself on a cliff in dense forest, needing some technical equipment. If it were a rainy day I'd skip this route entirely and head straight to the tavern. Approach Notes: Walk the old Loomis Creek road to 3200' before heading upstream in steep forest and meadow. The route features classic & nasty North Cascades brush of every flavor. At some point on this route you will be thankful you had Devil's Club to hang on to. Loomis has a summit register fashioned from an empty Jack Daniels bottle.

I'm all teared up. but not for the reason you were hoping for..! it'll go out this afternoon, media rate.

I have an extra. you can have it. email me with your mailing address at my gmail addr. I think I even have an aaj box left over from the one that just showed up. I'm out of town for a couple of days so it won't be right away.

I didn't understand that the NF and the W Buttress were the same. That's why I told Steph that I hadn't heard of an ascent of the WB. The confusion was gradually resolved with her & Dan's & Chad's research, spurred by input from Mike, because he and I had talked about the NC's Soviet routes years ago, and then again after Steph & I went over and looked at it in July. (And that was really an afterthought, only because the wind was beating the crap out of us at Glacier Peak and we decided to take a break and go look at something else. little twists of fate...) All in all a marvelous climb on a difficult route by a strong team performing at a very high level... a testament to the state of the PNW climbing community...imho...

Thxs for the email omr, reply sent. (you too Feck). it's for a magazine article (not written by me). & also thanks for the DM link, I'll send him a message later today. Look for the Chuck Crenchaw article in an upcoming issue of Alpinist, I'm not sure which one. I expect it will be good. I did not know of him previously but now realize his importance in the climbing history of the PNW.

Does anybody have a photograph of Charles Crenchaw that might be suitable for publication? Or maybe a lead on where one might be found? Here's a link to an old article about him in Ebony magazine from long ago but the photograph whereabouts are unknown: Charles Crenchaw article I've put out a query to some of the usual suspects via email but thought I'd post it up here as well, on a long shot. Any assistance appreciated, please email me at: j dot scurl dot 0490 at gmail dot com.

First place I ever climbed anything other than a tree... Grand Ledge.. sandstone indeed. I remember it as fairly solid if not a bit abrasive, short routes of 0.2 pitches on average, and yes grooves in the rock from ropes. Grand Ledge

It was a brilliant clear day. I was around there at summit level about the time this happened, with a passenger, but we were unaware of what was going on below.

& I appreciate it.. Just saw that, quite a story..I wasn't sure when it was coming out & was quite interested to read the details. That cover image makes me reflect on climbing when I was considerably younger..

I have two of them, both folded. One is the modified version in the back cover pocket of my copy of Tabor & Crowder's 'Routes and Rocks in the Mt. Challenger Quadrangle'. That version would never have been unfolded, it seems. Tonight I see three copies of that book available at www.abebooks.com from ~24$ to 65$, each with map included. My other copy is the true original, found it in my old map box today. Not sure where or when I got it. Both are very precious to me, particularly that first one. It's been with me twice afoot through the Pickets.

that definitely puts it in perspective. It's so hard to judge from the air. Here's what I was referring to, kinda poor quality but you get the idea, from 2007: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/91232603 and http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/91231897 those are from December, before development of a gigantic pack..

here are three views of it from April 8: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/142726397 http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/142726400 http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/142726403 in other years the fracture lines here have stretched nearly to the summit. We estimated this particular one to be perhaps five to ten feet deep. Looks like it probably happened a few days before the 8th.

Hey thanks. I have no personal experience on the ground there. I've talked a lot to Doug Clark, glaciologist at WWU, who has spent a lot of time there. He'd be the one to talk to, or perhaps others browsing through here. I can put you in touch with Doug if you want. I do know that it is a big place, and I've seen his photographs of avalanches coming down off W that didn't reach their camp. not that a big one couldn't...

Here's Steph Abegg's terrific image of Combatant from last Saturday, March 24: Combatant and here's the image I think you linked to previously, click 'original' below it to see a nice fat version: Skywalk The wind gods did not allow flight through Combatant Col on Saturday.

I've seen John's programs before & I HIGHLY recommend this.

don't see that this has been posted up here before so here goes...

Here's a Feb 2010 look at it, click the word 'original' below the image to see the largest uploaded size: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/141916132

this time of year, even when the weather's 'nice' it's vicious there, http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/141168492 - taken by Steph Abegg around 12:30 pm Friday...can only imagine what it would be like on the ground..she's said omr has looked closely at the images from the other side & seen nothing.. not unexpected unfortunately..

you lads are very kind indeed...where would I be without my cc friends...?? that tv interview was interesting... strange to be in such an unfamiliar environment but also good to be surrounded by people who are obviously really good at what they do. I'm glad I was able to keep nervousness under control...

you might consider contacting North Cascades Institute, as they have a number of programs specifically directed at outdoor education for young people.

well I guess what it is for me is regret, he and I once did a sensational flight out of Chilliwack, what I need to do I think is move to Chilliwack... There were things I wish I could have included but didn't have the imagery for. In a way it's easier to spend a week such as we did in the Rockies, because increased time gives increased flexibility in terms of weather and the coming and going across the border. There is a close parallel here to climbing trips..I do understand what you are saying though, but bottom line is Lowell's contribution was monumental and pivotal to the book.

& back on topic a little, thanks to everyone for the kind remarks, the book's reception has been gratifying to say the least. I'm excited about presenting with Steph, that trip to the Rockies was remarkable & her take on it will be a fascinating perspective. You all probably know this already but she is Tough.

yes (and you should have left out the "rather a" because simply put it is a lot) and my profound apology for that; it is directly related to the difficulty of getting across the border (as it relates to Dept of Homeland Security) by small plane, including me being busted once in 2008 and a special "invitation" to come in and talk to them... the days of me coming up to Chilliwack for pie and a flight on a whim are in the past, it is still possible but not near as carefree as in the the good old days... in the 2008 episode, they were in a jet and I was in my little plane. That limited their ability to land in Concrete and come running up with weapons drawn. We are on good terms now of course... I phone them when I'm going to be near the border & all's good, they know who I am. It's the crossing that's difficult to do on a moment's notice.

OK, as I had mentioned to Kevin I thought I had recently photographed it and sure enough I did on November 28. You would think I'd have automatically remembered.... Here it is, click 'original' below the image to see the largest uploaded size, it's big, somebody can grab that 'original' version and put the lines on it: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/140342851 I don't think I can do any better than that.