denalidevo

http://www.climerware.com/unclip.shtml

Another thumbs up for the Sum'Tec! Swings well and the adjustable pinky rest is cool.

I think the fact that it's a well designed piece that keeps you warm trumps what color it is.

BTW - the wall was quite wet on Friday, a little better Saturday. We led through the dampness on (lower) Godzilla both yesterday and today. Tatoosh was completely dry Friday. If the weather forecast stays true things should continue to dry out. Jap Gardens was dry enough to lead Saturday. Thin Fingers was still damp on the first pitch but could be skirted around via Tatoosh or french-freed easily. I don't have to work next Friday until 4pm and would love to get some laps in Gene if you're available.

Was there Friday and Saturday Gene - never got above 40 deg, but was fine, especially when the sun came out. Fingers got a little cold, but that builds character, right? Wear long underwear, a warm cap, puffy and belay gloves. Bring a thermos and put a hand warmer in your chalk bag.

Look here: Peanuts to Solitude (a trip report) on RCNW

Builds character!

Just telling you what the Trout Creek guidebook says: "As with any crack climbing area, ratings here can be incredibly subjective. If you have really small hands you may find Gold Rush punishing and cruise the “harder” JR Token. With that in mind, this guide uses the +- system of less precise grade measurements. For those unfamiliar with this system, 5.10- is in the range of 5.10a or b; 5.10 is 5.10b or c; 5.10+ is about 5.10c or d." Their crag, their rules. Gold Rush felt like 10a at the most to me. (It was easier for me than most Index 10a hand cracks I've frequented, but three times longer too.)

Yes & no - Trout Creek uses the 5.10-/5.10/5.10+ system. Gold Rush is considered 5.10-, so that means it falls in the range of 5.10a or 10b, depending on your hand size. Gold Rush felt like 10a to me. JR Token is listed as 5.10 (i.e. 5.10b or 10c) - felt like .10c to me...

Trip: Trout Creek - First taste of Trout Creek! Date: 10/22/2011 Trip Report: Escaping another rainy Seattle weekend, Ian and I dashed to Trout Creek, OR after work last Friday for a weekend of spectacular crack climbing. We were joined there by JP, whom I'd met in The Valley a few weeks prior. This was my first foray to Trout Creek and I was suitably impressed - some of the best pure crack climbing I've ever experienced! We started things off Saturday afternoon at The Northern End on T-Handles (5.9) and Talkin' It Clean (5.10-). SIZING UP THE CRACKS AT THE NORTHERN POINT IAN LEADING T-HANDLES JP ON TALKIN' IT CLEAN Then it was a lap each on Salad Daze (5.9) and Bedside Manner (5.9). On our way back to camp that evening we wandered on past the main wall and scoped out the cracks there. SUNSET ON THE MAIN WALL Sunday found us at the main wall where we each led Gold Rush (5.10-), a stupendous one hundred-foot hand crack - probably the best I've ever climbed. LEADING GOLD RUSH Then I gave JR Token (5.10) a go. It began with straightforward jams to a sustained thin hands section near the top which gave me some trouble. I ended up hanging on a few pieces while on lead but managed to get it clean on top-rope later. I've got a project to work on! I'll definitely be back. TROUT CREEK - OREGON'S CRACK CLIMBING PARADISE More photos: my Trout Creek Oct 2011 photo set on Flickr >> Gear Notes: Lots of cams: we took three doubled racks up to Camalot #4. (Used six each of Camalot #2's and #3's on Gold Rush.) Approach Notes: 45min, lot's of vert & boulder scrambling

Sweet! Love Fall cragging in Leavenworth and R&D is a great first multi-pitch. Bagged Cocaine Crack myself this Spring - it's full on, good job!

October can be a great time: My trip report from last year - Prusik Peak - South Face, Stanley-Burgner 10/18/2010

Trip: Yosemite - Two weeks in The Valley/Tuolumne Date: 9/25/2011 Trip Report: Sep 25 - Oct 9. My seventh annual Fall trip to The Valley. Compadres were Kurt, Tony, Seth, Matt & Dave. Good times! What got done: Bishop's Terrace (5.8) Jam Crack (5.9) Sloth Wall (5.7) Anti Ego Crack (5.7) Revival (5.10a) After Six (III 5.7) Harry Daley (5.8) Royal Arches (III 5.7 A0) Lucky Streaks, Fairview Dome (III 5.10d) Highway Star (5.10b) Generator Crack (5.10c) Central Pillar of Frenzy (III 5.9) East Buttress, El Capitan (IV 5.10b) Five and Dime (5.10d) Keystone Corner (5.8) Nurdle/Knob Job (5.8) Sherrie's Crack (5.10c) Grant's Crack (5.9) Unnamed Seam, Swan Slab (5.10c) Tony on the Royal Arches pendulum Seth following pitch two on Lucky Streaks, Fairview Dome Seth leading pitch three of Lucky Streaks Seth inside Generator Crack El Capitan Matt following pitch one, Central Pillar of Frenzy Me on pitch two, Central Pillar of Frenzy Atop the East Buttress of El Capitan Seth leading Five and Dime Good times around the campfire at Lower Pines Fall storm dusts Half Dome Yosemite Falls flowing after the storm Links: Yosemite 2011 photo set on Flickr Detailed TR on my climbing blog Gear Notes: Doubled rack and lots of ropes Approach Notes: 16 hr. drive from Everett to The Valley

If relatively light, fairly compact and comfortable to rock climb in is the criteria, (and with the correct shape/size carabiner to function as a "belay loop") the Alpine Bod is pretty nice. It was my first and only harness for mountaineering and rock climbing for many years. Then I bought the BD Bod - my current rock climbing harness - and "upgraded" to a padded waist and webbing belay loop. It's not the lightest or snazziest harness out there these days, but I sure find it comfortable and easy to get on! I've been eyeing the Arcteryx harnesses, but the sizing is weird on me and that damn plastic haul loop is stoooooooopid.

BD Couloir is light and has a belay loop. The small buckle is finicky, especially with gloves. NOT comfortable to rappel/sit in. The Alpine Bod does not have a belay loop - the Bod harness does. (BTW, I own all of these harnesses)

Or after clicking on the photo in Flickr, choose the Share menu (above the photo) and use the "Grab the HTML/BB Code" option - just copy and paste into your post. That's what I do.

Climbed G-M/HOTC at Index this evening after work. There was a shiny new Petzl hanger on the first pitch near where I used to clip a rusty old pin (now gone). Who's gonna' complain 'bout that one?

Trip: Mt. Baker - North Ridge Date: 7/27/2011 Trip Report: Video TR: [video:youtube] If you prefer words and pictures: full TR on my climbing blog. Lots of pics here: North Ridge Flickr album. A few images to whet your appetite: Gear Notes: 60m half ropes, one piolet, one technical tool each, 7 screws, 3 pickets Approach Notes: Easy peasy

Suzanne and I began guiding for Alpine Ascents the same year, working a lot together in the years following. I considered her not just a colleague but a friend. She was dedicated and passionate about guiding and very outgoing, sharing her love of outdoor adventure with everyone she met. I'll miss her as a rope mate and compadre. Blessings to you on your next grand adventure Suzanne! ME, SUZANNE AND DAVE ON THE SUMMIT OF MT. RAINIER - AUG 1, 2010 Links: King 5 article Anchorage Daily News

Trip: Smith Rock - 5 days at Smith Date: 3/21/2011 Trip Report: Got away from the rain on the west side for a few days. This is a brief synopsis of our trip - read full description on my climbing blog. Routes: Honey Pot (5.9) Teddy Bear's Picnic (5.10b) Nine Gallon Buckets (5.10c) Overboard (5.11c) Karate Crack (5.10a) Super Slab (5.6) Phone Call From Satan (5.9) Solar (5.9) Cosmos (5.10a) Screaming Yellow Zonkers (5.10b) Moons of Pluto (5.10d) Bad Moon Rising (5.11a) Five Gallon Buckets (5.8) The Outsiders (5.9) Gumby (5.10b) / Morning Sky (5.10c) Pics from my: Smith Rock March 2011 photo set on Flickr Chad on Honey Pot Leading Teddy Bear's Picnic Chad & I on Karate Crack Leading Moons of Pluto

Trip: Prusik Peak - West Ridge Date: 7/23/2005 Trip Report: On Saturday, July 23, 2005 Hunter and I climbed Prusik Peak in a day via the West Ridge (5.7). Approach was via Colchuck Lake/Asgaard Pass. This was one of the finest days I've ever had in the mountains - climbing with a good friend on a beautiful summer day on a classic route. Doesn't get better than that. Distance: 20 miles round trip Elevation gain: 5,200 feet Time: 16 hours, 15 minutes car-to-car We camped in the Icicle Friday night, got up at 4 a.m. Saturday and were on the trail to Colchuck Lake by 5:35. We were at the base of the West Ridge by 11:30, climbing by noon, summited at 2:30, and descended back to the base by 4:00. We took our time hiking back to Asgaard Pass, basking in the beauty of a perfect summer day in the Enchantments. We gained the junction of the Stuart and Colchuck trails by 9 p.m., hiked the remaining distance by headlamp and were at the the parking lot before 10:00. At camp we consumed some munchies and beer and crashed for the night. I don't remember sleeping more soundly. Dragontail in the early morning light Hunter humping it up Ass-kick Pass Dragontail panorama Prusik in sight The West Ridge Base of W. Ridge - Hunter's ready Hunter following pitch 1 The traverse pitch - sweet exposure! Summit Descent photos - it was a gorgeous day Exhausted Hunter Gear Notes: Alpine rack, 60m rope, tag line Approach Notes: Trail

As I recollect we started on a nice trail to Bedal Basin, then headed off cross-country for Sloan. Somewhere along the way we headed up the wrong side of a drainage and had to descend into some slide alder and cross a creek to get back on track. Probably user error...

Trip: Sloan Peak - Corkscrew Route Date: 6/27/2006 Trip Report: On June 26-27, 2006, I climbed Sloan Peak with Phil Prins and Rich Guthrie (this was the first time I'd climbed with Phil since McKinley in '03). We took an alternate approach via Bedal Creek. It was described as a 4 hour cross-country jaunt but we managed to push it to 8 hours with some "creative" navigation choices and extended bushwhacking. Summary: left the trailhead at noon, arrived at base camp at 8pm after being whupped and beaten by slide alder, devil's club and unseasonable heat. Went to bed to a wonderful sunset though! June 26: Rich & Phil rearin' to go Deep brush Approaching high camp Settling into camp Sunset on Three Fingers and Whitehorse Glacier Peak June 27: Summit day stats: Left base camp @ 6am, el: 5,700 ft Summited @ 9am, el: 7,835 ft Returned to base @ 11:00am Missed the trail on the way down - another hour of bush-whacking :-( Back at trailhead @ 3pm Summit day pics: Sloan Glacier Good times! Link: Sloan Peak - June 27, 2006 photo set on Flickr Gear Notes: Glacier rig & rope Approach Notes: Bedal Creek approach = lots of bush-whackin'

I'm just speculating, but my Neutrino's (non-hooded) fit through smaller openings (crowded hangers and the like) better than my hooded wiregates (Wild Country's) - the hood widens the nose. This design seems to combine a narrow nose profile with a wiregate and keylock functionality, kinda' cool if it works. Since it's Petzl, it probably does.

Trip: Mt. Shuksan ski descent - Sulphide Glacier Date: 7/1/2006 Trip Report: Climbed Shuksan Saturday, July 1, 2006 with Scott, Aaron, Dave and Mia. Scott and I packed in our skis for the descent; Aaron brought his board. The rest would just have to hoof it. Left Everett w/ Scott and Mia a little after 1 am; started off from the trailhead at 3 am. Witnessed a beautiful sunrise on the way: Mt. Baker Skier in profile Weather was gorgeous. We slogged the Sulphide, soaking in the scenery. Slogging pics: Summit pyramid Arrived at the base of the summit pyramid at 11:15 am. Mia, Dan and I continued to the summit via the 4th-class gully, topping out at noon. Forgot how sketchy the rock was on Shuksan. There was still a lot of rotten, melting snow in the gully - made things interesting, especially in plastic ski boots. On the descent, Mia & Dave rappelled while I chose to down climb, trusting my footwork more than the rap anchors. Below the pyramid Mia scrambling to the summit Baker from the summit Dan on the East Ridge Summit shot Scott & I began our ski descent @ 12:30 pm. Aaron had tweeked his bum knee on the way up and was unable to board, so he gimped his way down with Mia and Dan. The skiing was ok - soft "mashed potatoes" - nothing to write home about, but better than slogging on foot. Still, we had to stop and wait for the others several times so we didn't really save any time. A few ski pics, courtesy of Scott: We were all pretty beat when we arrived at the car at 5:30 pm, It was a blazing hot day and we'd spent over 12 hours in the sun. Stopped in Burlington at Tacos Guaymas for dinner - Mmm good! I hit my bed hard at 9pm and slept for 12 hours. Good times. Links: Mount Shuksan - July 1, 2006 Flickr photo set Scott's TR at ClimbWashington.com Gear Notes: 30m rope, pickets, skis, sunscreen Approach Notes: Trail