denalidevo

Trip: Index Town Wall - Godzilla/Tatoosh/Free at Last Date: 2/10/2010 Trip Report: Took a chance on Wednesday and managed to get some climbing in on Index LTW before it started raining. Full report with pictures: http://denalidevo.net/climb/2010/02/rock-climb-godzillatatooshfree-at-last.html Gear Notes: Full rock rack - lot's of small stuff for Free at Last Approach Notes: It was cold

Trip: Winter training: more laps on Godzilla - Godzilla Date: 1/22/2010 Trip Report: First outdoor rock climb of 2010 - that's at least one day every month for the past 11 months - not bad for WA... Pics and vid at: http://denalidevo.net/climb/2010/01/rock-climb-more-laps-on-godzilla.html Gear Notes: Full rock rack

Anybody have a copy of this one lying around? I'm interested in the training articles.

I highly recommend Barry's Resoles in Auberry, CA. By far the best work I've had done on my shoes. I've used Page, Yosemitebum/Evolve and others without problems, but Barry's work is superb. I believe he's a one-man operation, either way the work is consistently of high quality and he's just a really nice guy. Some more opinions re. Barry at http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=251746&tn=40 Barry's Resoles: half soles stealth onyxx $36 half soles stealth c4 $34 rand repair (ea.) $10 s/h $7 ea. add. pr. $2 Barry's Resoles 41585 Auberry Road Auberry, CA 93602 ph: 559/855-4511

I climbed @ Index twice in December - just need a stretch of dry, sunny weather for the lower wall to dry out. Climbed @ WWI wall at Little Si in the middle of a Nov rainstorm too. It's possible, you just gotta' want it - and have the opportunity. Index in December: http://denalidevo.net/climb/2009/12/rock-climb-godzillajapanese-gardens.html http://denalidevo.net/climb/2009/12/rock-climb-index-town-wall.html

Trip: Index Town Wall - Godzilla/Jap Gardens Date: 12/26/2009 Trip Report: Got a little craggin' in on Sat: http://denalidevo.net/climb/2009/12/rock-climb-godzillajapanese-gardens.html Gear Notes: Full rack, jet boil, thermos, green tea

wierd... the post disappeared for a bit - my hosting server was updated or something like that. I've reposted it and now it's back

Trip: Index Town Wall - Aries/Breakfast of Champions Date: 12/5/2009 Trip Report: Made it to Index on Sat: full TR and pics on my climbing blog at http://denalidevo.net/climb/2009/12/rock-climb-index-town-wall.html Gear Notes: Full rock rack to #4 camalot

Link to TR above has changed to: http://denalidevo.net/climbs/2009/08/alpine-climb-torment-forbidden-traverse.html

Light was accomplished. Fast? A goal striven for, not always achieved... such is alpine climbing.

I don't believe so, we've got plans to go back this Tue though...

Skagit River Resort - http://www.northcascades.com/eatery.htm

Trip: Boston Basin - Torment - Forbidden Traverse Date: 8/18/2009 Trip Report: Even though I managed to get out yesterday to WWI Wall at Exit 32 yesterday AM, the rain has given me opportunity to put the finishing touches on some TR's from the past summer. Here's one from my second attempt on the T-F Traverse in August: http://denalidevo.net/climb/2009/08/alpine-climb-torment-forbidden-traverse.html Full text w/ pics (even more linked to on my flickr page) - click on 'em to enlarge the wee details. Gear Notes: Light and fast baby! Approach Notes: Routefinding on Torment's South Ridge route is a b*tch

Crest Jewel is very nice, particularly if you're a slab aficionado. We chose to drive to the Porcupine Creek trailhead from The Valley (~1:15) and do the 5 mile approach on easy trail, skirting down alongside North Dome to the base of CJ. Meant a simple hike back to the car from the top of ND after the climb instead of descending North Dome Gully to The Valley. Goodrich Pinnacle was another, I'd tried it twice before and had been weathered off both attempts. Some of the trickiest slab route-finding I've ever done. Worth checking out route beta on supertopo.com beforehand... Pat and Jack's Pinnacle is a great crag - some great trad climbs (Sherrie's Crack, Nurdle, Knob Job) and even one of the best sport climbs I've ever lead (Boneheads). Church Bowl Lieback is classic and another (unlisted) Church Bowl must-do would be Bishop's Terrace - 200 feet of some of the best 5.8 crack on the planet.

Trip: Yosemite Valley - Wrap-up: two weeks in The Valley Date: 10/11/2009 Trip Report: Sep 27 through Oct 11: my fifth annual Fall trip to The Valley. Good times as usual, including my first ever big wall. The sum of it: Munginella - II, 5.6 (led p2) Church Bowl Lieback - I, 5.8 (led) Revival - I, 5.10a (TR) The Grack, Center - II, 5.6 (led p1,3) The Grack, Left - II, 5.7 (led p2) Sloth Wall - I, 5.7 (followed) Just for Starters - I, 5.10a (led) Anti Ego Grack - I, 5.7 (led) Turkey Pie - I, 5.7 (TR) Nurdle - I, 5.8 (led) Sherrie's Crack - I, 5.10c (TR) Royal Arches - III, 5.7 A0 (led p1; simuled p2-4; led p5, 6; simuled p7; led p9, 11, 12, 15) **3rd ascent and still fun The Goblet, Center - I, 5.6 (led) The Goblet, Right - I, 5.8/9 (TR) Goodrich Pinnacle - II+, 5.9R (led p3-7) Knob Job - I, 5.10b (led p2, 5.8) Sherrie's Crack - I, 5.10c (TR) Babble On - I, 5.10a off-width (followed) Suds - I, 5.9 (led) Boneheads - I, 5.10b (led - sport route) Crest Jewel - III, 5.10a (led p1, 2, 4, 6, 8) Highway Star - I, 5.10a/b (TR) Southern Man - V, C2 5.9 (led p3 free 5.8; led p7 C1 5.7) Copper Penny - I, 5.10a off-width (followed) Five and Dime - I, 5.10d (followed) Pictorial highlights: The Grack, Glacier Point Apron Sloth Wall, Knob Hill A0 pendulum, Royal Arches Pitch 14, Royal Arches Pitch 3, Crest Jewel Pitch 7, Crest Jewel Half Dome panorama from North Dome Crest Jewel summit shot Washington Column Pitch 4, Southern Man Chillin' on Dinner Ledge, Washington Column Sunset on El Cap from Washington Column Jugging on day two of Southern Man Pitch 6, Southern Man Climber on South Face of Washington Column Jugging pitch 6, Southern Man Leading pitch 7, Southern Man Final rap off Washington Column Our progress on Southern Man - we climbed 7 of the 10 pitches Seth leading Copper Penny The perils of off-width crack climbing View 'em all: Yosemite 2009 photos Gear Notes: Placed my first #6 Camalot, bought some offset nuts too... Approach Notes: Absolutely NO deadly manzanita bushwhacks and unplanned bivies!

Trip: Yosemite Valley - Munginella & Church Bowl Date: 9/28/2009 Trip Report: Day two of 14 in The Valley: went to Five Open Books and climbed Munginella (5.6) with Kurt. We had a 70m rope and did it in two pitches. Kurt led pitch one - a series of easy flakes to a small roof and a tree belay. I promptly started pitch two by going off route to the right and then traversing back left on some slab into the dihedral. This pitch was the money pitch - committing liebacks with bomber jugs in all the right places, finishing with polished stemming with a thin crack for fingers and pro. Adding to the spice factor was some horrendous rope drag due to my early wanderings below. Kurt scored his first piece of booty gear - a #5 nut on the final stem. All-in-all a very enjoyable climb. Spent rest of the afternoon cragging at Church Bowl. I led Church Bowl Lieback (5.8) - a stellar series of liebacks (go figure) with sweet fingerlocks and bomber nut placements. The first time I led this climb in '08 I did it all on a single set of nuts; this time I used one .4 camalot, the rest was nuts. Love this climb! From the top of CBL we set a toprope on Revival (5.10a). I tried attempted the 5.10+ direct face variation for a short bit (desssssperate crimps and foot smears) then escaped left to easier terrain. The 5.10a fingers over a roof really wasn't bad, the 5.9 face/no-hands-stand-up-onto-a-sloping-ledge was sweet, and a bomber 5.8 finger crack finished it off with style. Good times - a great way to kick off two weeks in the Valley! Gear Notes: Munginella: Standard rack, doubles from .3 to #3 cams, one #4. CBL: nuts and one .4 cam Approach Notes: It's the Valley, can't be too hard...

Trip: Index Town Wall - Godzilla Date: 9/16/2009 Trip Report: Location: Index Town Wall, WA Route: Godzilla Grade: I, 5.9 - 5.10 (w/ variations) Spent an idyllic Wednesday morning at Index with Jason. 9:30 am we were at the base of the wall and decided to warm up on Godzilla - my lead. Then we decided we'd run laps on it until someone kicked us off - why not? Great way to get in shape for Yosemite! We did 6 laps apiece (approx. 700 vertical feet) with several variations varying in difficulty up to 5.10. At 2:30 pm another party showed up and ended our workout. Gear Notes: Full rack, draws Approach Notes: If it weren't for the long approach, I'd climb @ Index more often...

Trip: Darrington - Silent Running Date: 9/18/2009 Trip Report: Location: Darrington, WA Route: Silent Running (w/ bonus pitch) Grade: II+, 5.10b Kurt and I drove out to slab city (D-town) to get in some long pitches and vert. Hiked to Three O'Clock Rock and found we had it all to ourselves! Silent Running beckoned and we heeded her call. I led pitch 1, an easy 5.5. I placed a #1 cam in the crack before the solitary bolt, mainly because I had it on me. Kurt led pitch 2 (5.8) - all bolts. Pitch 3 was the first crux at 5.9+. I placed a .5 cam under a small overlap - again, mainly because I had it. Kurt led the next two pitches, both 5.8, all bolts. The 5th pitch was fun, probably only one 5.8 move, the rest easier w/ knobs. I led the final (6th) pitch (5.9+) and the "bonus" 7th pitch (5.10b). The old rusty buttonhead bolts (scaaary!) had been replaced with new bolts and Metolius hangers since our last visit in '06, a much appreciated upgrade. I hadn't climbed the bonus 10b pitch before; it looked intimidating with it's 2 roofs. I made some 5.9'ish moves up to the first overlap which was well protected by a bolt; the second overlap had a nice crack below it where I placed a #2 cam and clipped a bolt above. I wasted time and energy placing a C3 in a thin crack (mental pro!) and pondered climbing up and left before deciding to go down and right around a bush instead, placed a .5 cam not too far above the the C3 and continued up through some spicy slab past two more bolts (this felt like the crux to me). The last bit climbed up to a dihedral where I recall placing a #1 cam and another C3 before running it out to the anchors. Started climbing at 10:35 am, finished pitch 7 just after 3 pm: 4.5 hours total to climb approximately 1,000 feet. Another hour and we'd rappelled to the base (simul-rapp'ing the last pitch). Good times. Gear Notes: Gear placed: BD C4's .5 - 2; C3's green & red; 8 QD's and 2 alpine draws; half ropes Approach Notes: Trail - all good

"Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment." - Evan Hardin As climbers, I'm sure we've all experienced this truism on some level. The difficult thing is to refrain from injecting our own judgments into someone else's experience, especially those of tragic proportions. Until the facts are known, the most helpful thing we can do is support and encourage those who suffer in our thoughts and prayers.

it's oversized like a DAS so it's large. I wear a medium DAS myself.

Red

2 items, used on one Denali expedition, never since. Practically new condition. Wild Things Belay Jacket - Large. Very warm synthetic jacket w/ Epic shell - $80. Mountain Hardwear Overboots - Large - $25.

Bomb-proof, super warm synthetic belay jacket w/ weather-resistant Epic shell. Almost new, hardly used, excellent condition. $125. PM me for more info.

Climb: Snow Creek Wall-Outer Space Date of Climb: 10/23/2006 Trip Report: Climbed Outer Space w/ Dave H. Monday - my first time on this classic. It was a beautiful day - not warm but not particularly cold. The golden leaves of fall were vibrant. We had a short run of sun on the 3rd and 4th pitches, other than that we were in the shade. We did the direct start (Remorse) as suggested by Nelson. Dave thought this was better than the first pitches of the traditional route. Dave led the 5.9 taverse above two tree ledge - some good exposure there! I led the thin finger crack on the final pitch. I don't do much thin crack and found the first couple moves strenuous. Ran the 60M rope to the limit to make the last belay (horiz. crack approx. 25' above the roof w/ the HUGE chicken heads). Nelson's description says this as a 160' pitch that ends just short of the top. Not sure if or where I might have gone wrong. We climbed the route in 7 hrs - not bad. By the time we scrambled to the base the sun was setting and we hiked the two miles back to the car in the dark. Dave forgot his headlamp but lucky for him I had a spare! Highlight of the day: seeing a horizontal rainbow hovering directly overhead on pitch 5, created by sun rays filtering through the clouds above. Way cool. Wish I'd had my camera. Gear Notes: Doubles in the .75-2 camalots, one #3 cam, TCU's, stoppers w/a few extra HB offset nuts that kicked a$$, #9 & 10 hex.