joel20

I don't have any experience with Abiel peak but I'd imagine from the trip reports that It would be possible to do quite quickly solo. Ice hardly ever spooks me as long as it's solid, but steep snice can really suck when I'm alone. All in all it seems like good idea and I like the name "Fuck You Uncle Sam". Thank you for giving me something to work towards, a real goal. Really though, I just want to do it all because it's all bigger than me. If you see a red Ford Escape parked around there it's probably me. If you ask me to join you I'll probably say yes unless I think that your getting into something that's above my level. At the same time I don't believe that anything is beneath my level either. I just think that place is such a good training ground throughout the year for more sports than just climbing. I'll have to find a camp ground just so that I can spend a few days at a time nearby.

My turn to call BS Dru. Let's do a test. I'll have you lay down in the snow while I spend an hour making a fire. Sure I could get a rope under you or a pack. But if you have a broken back, which would you rather have under you, a nice flat foam pad, or a rope? PAIN IS THE PATIENTS PROBLEM NOT YOURS

By the way I couldn't make it out of Iraq for anything this winter. On the bright side of things I'm going to New Zealand in two and a half months. Does anyone know of anything around Wanaka that should be in condition around that time? I just can't seem to find a decent guide book anywhere. All that I'm looking for is some WI3&4 with a short approach. I'll save anything serious for when it gets closer for me to go back to getting blown up and shot at in some mid-east shit hole

By the way I couldn't make it out of Iraq for anything this winter. On the bright side of things I'm going to New Zealand in two and a half months. Does anyone know of anything around Wanaka that should be in condition around that time? I just can't seem to find a good guide book anywhere. I'm not looking for anything serious to start off with just some grade 3&4 with a short approach. I'll save anything serious for the end of the trip when it starts getting time for me go back to getting blown up and shot at again in that mid-east shit hole.

As of Jan. 29 2007 I will be a free man again and out of the army. Oh, free and collecting unemployment for the first time in my life. Any suggestions for what to start on? I was planning on starting with the 1-90 corridor and then making my way over to Canada a few days at a time. Mainly just for ice and backcountry snowboarding(I really need to learn how to ski at some point) until the weather warms up.

Who teaches French in that town? Do they have a website? By the way telepheriques are indeed aid. That particular one allows you to walk with your skis/board over to Mont Blanc du Tacul climb about 5-6 pitches of what may be grade 5 ice, descend, ski down the vallee blanche and take the bus back to the bar. Have you done the Frendo Spur yet? It's something that I've been wanting to do since I went there last march just didn't have a partner to do it with. In any case at least someone is enjoying life at the moment.

dude, driving your picks way to deep into the ice and allowing huge dinner plates to fall on him always work. tell him that you'll bring all the food and show up with 2 cliff bars. throw every loose plant or rock down below you, saying that you are cleaning the route. kill his or her cat or dog and serve it to him when you break out that pre-made meal you brought with you.

5500 plus pack? Dude are you checking that at the plane as luggage? If so get a duffle, if you are actually carrying it to your climbing camp a huge distance from your car(MEANING FURTHER THAN 10 MILES) I say borrow if you're only going to use it once. If you're going to use it a bunch get something that fits you right and has some type of mesh back panel, prefferably on the shoulder straps and waist belt too so that you don't get too wet from your own sweat. My favorite company lately for those types of packs is Jack Wolfskin. Unfortunately I've only seen them in Germany, they are pricey, and of usually don't offer much in the way of torso adjustment. Try on some packs, remember that you get what you pay for. If you do the online ordering thing make sure that you have someone do your measurements for you.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?cat=513 the photos from me taking one for the team

Working out, making money, having a good time? I will be the Muir beer meister.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?cat=503

stupids alpine training

But half ropes are good because they do stretch more, meaning that they don't put as much stress on the gear. Also you can just use one of those ropes for glacier travel. Dragging them over sharp rock? Try not to because many times it's unnecessary seeing as you don't have to clip both ropes into the same pro. Then again I have been leaning more towards what they use in europe. Sport and direct trad routes, with a walk down descent go with a light single that is 60m long like they suggested. If you're planning on doing alot of rappeling and climbing on less less than perfectly solid ice get a half rope. Not only does it not pull on gear as bad during a fall but it also allows for more rock pro placement without zig zagging while climbing narrow ice falls.

Pair of rages and shrikes pair of sabertooths

definitely my leashes and my helmet, i'm fucking clumsy. right now my m-4 with the m203 and my 60mm mortar are definitely not favorite pieces of gear. bullet proof armor, priceless

but how many push ups can a sport climber do?

New Years, everybody makes has something going on usually. So do I, and it may be fun but that doesn't depend on me at this point. I even have a resolution, I'm not telling but I'm pretty sure that all of you can guess what it is. Life is fucking hillarious, I sure as hell think it is. I mean I'm around a bunch of guys who just can't seem to stop falling into Iraqi shit farm canals at all hours of the day and night including myself. We laugh because eating shit is always funny, that and it's better than being on the road and getting our asses blown up. It's midnight now and all that I can say is that. Man, I really don't have anything nice to say. Oh, right GET WASTED!

Is there anyone who's been there that can help me? I'm planning a trip there around June and would like to know about 2 things. Where can I snowboard and go ice climbing, preferably in close proximity to one another?

Well thanks. If anyone wishes to send me their old climbing literature or anyone from the magazine reads this and is able to help with the issue that I am having my address is Joel Stidham C Co 1/502IN, 2BCT, 101 ABN APO AE 09398 Myself and the other climbers living on the 4 acres of real estate in Lutifia would greatly appreciate it. About Rock and Ice. They have actually been doing a great job of making sure that I get every issue even when my address changes and I forget to tell them. That almost makes up for all of the homo bouldering articles that they publish like I said, almost.

I paid for a subscription nearly 3 months ago and I haven't received a single issue. I've e-mailed them many times and haven't received a single reply. With every e-mail I send where I got charged on my bank statement. Would anyone know anything about what to do on this? I don't have a working phone where I'm at in Iraq and the reading material over where I'm at is getting scarce and old.

Well, the towns surrounding Chamonix are pretty good. IF you stay at Les Houches many of the falls are within walking distance and there is ski area right there. In Argentiere there is the cremerie which is also right next to the Grand Montets ski area. If you stay in Chamonix you can catch the bus to either of these areas or you can go up the Aguille du Midi lift and walk across the way to that wall of ice in front of you.It is also the same lift that you take to ski or board down the Valle Blanche. Better than that I think would be to go across the Mont Blanc tunnel into Cogne Italy if all you want is ice fall climbing. It's better I think and I'll probably stay there at least a few weeks upon my separation from the army because they have routes all the way up to M10 which I am not even good enough to climb yet but it's something to work towards. All I have to say is don't over do it. At least take some rest days to ski or board and eat some good French food.

Well, blowing up things and shooting big guns in a foreign country. Damned near getting my ass blown up and shot off. that was all fun. I'd definitley have to say that month in Chamonix was definitely the most fun thing all year.

It didn't happen while climbing but while I was at work in Iraq. I took a piece of shrapnel to my thigh about the size of a quarter after it went through a steel shipping conix and the black diamond 2005/06 Ice Climbing catalog that I had in my pocket. I can't really walk right now and they are flying me out sometime today to get operated on. It happened 3 days ago and it hurts like hell. It stopped right at the bone and the doc said that the catalog is about the only thing that kept my bone from being shattered. I ended my last tour 8 months ago without a scratch but I guess it's a little unreasonable to ask for that kind of luck twice. If you guys don't remember me I'm the guy who climbed Saddam's Tikrit palace less than a year ago. I'll post some pics after the surgery in the meantime I may end up spending my winter trying to re-hab my leg by day and running missions and patrols at night. It sucks but of course I'm flexible and as it turns out New Zealand's winter happens to be our summer I'm pretty sure of. Any remarks as to how I can rehabilitate myself in a field type environment?

When this spring? I'm was trying to get Feb for my R&R but I'm only as flexible as the Army is. I'm in Iraq and I'll post on this board when I finally get my flight date. In any case if both France and Colorado fall through as far as the time frame goes I'll be flying back into Sea-Tac and then make a trip up to Canada after seeing the family. I'm up for Chamonix as late as March and that's probably where I'll end up.

I haven't been on the site since the last March when I was in Chamonix. All that I can say is that I want to go again this year if I get the chance to. The ice was great before the weather turned really warm and I got in all the snowboarding that I could have asked for. Sad part is that I couldn't get there earlier in the season. Well, that's what happens when I have to plan my life in between deployments. Speaking of which I'll probably be gone for round 2 in Iraq the next time I post.