Kevin_Matlock

This year's line is setting up different.... the hog's is lined up left; reminiscent of what I've read ahout "the olden days" when the old chute WAS the normal route. I bet we are in a transition phase where the south climb moves around over the course of time; looks like it's on the move again maybe eventually to setup like it was in the 30's-50's. True, it's only moved maybe 50' to the left (west) so far, but it sets up the ascent through the pearly gates all wrong. Also exposes a natual funnel down onto the unsuspecting. I've seen most people head up the old chute so far this year. Not having done this specific route up, to me it does appear to be a slight bit tougher. I've seen a couple take a high line up, maybe too high in fact, which looks like a traverse at maybe 45 degree for about 100 meters. Still likely the easiest way up, and not hard by most standards, but maybe just hard enough that it keeps the hordes from summitting??? Time, and I'm sure the 5 o'clock news, will tell.

Anybody know the harm with a single twin line for glaciers or as a safety line on 4.hard/5.easy? It's what I indend to use on this type of terrain and the weight of the rope is hard to beat. Pretty much looking for protection from "slipping-type falls" and not full whippers when a stronger cord is clearly called for.

not climbing, but driving - an anecdote: coming back from beacon rock one sunny afternoon in a most enlightened state of mind, while also sipping a cold frosty one from the elegant skamania market, i got cut off by some jackass pulling out onto 14 in washougal - usually i'm a very aggressive driver, and in an entirely sober state would no doubt have speed up, yelled at the guy, and tried to pass him. instead, i just turned up "kinky reggae" and went back to jam'n. about 30 seconds later, the jackass, now a good 200 yards ahead of me, gets in a near fatal accident. the car in front of him bizarrely decides to cut a u-turn w/o checkign his mirror, and he t-bones it at 50 mph. if i had been sober, i'd have been up there, racing along at 70 or so. as it was, i was able to calmly set my pale ale down while slowly steering my way through the debris cloud, laughing my ass off (not saying my enlightenment makes me a better human being). this kind of thing is very true in the alpine - the weather looks iffy and scary - i'm stoned, i'll be extra cautious at the crag - paranoia - double check knot, gear, shoes, helmet, holds, everything. it certainly doesn't improve my climbing technique though! i've probably ended up welding my feet and hands in cracks more frequently while feeling The Fear. Well there you go.... a pretty reason to smoke it if you got it! I have to admit Ivan, you make a good (or at least interesting) point. Thanks for the insight. Maybe it would do me some good too if I were to rehook up with Mr. Stinky since I often experience said "fuck you-ism" on the road. Wonder if it would help!?!?!

Calm down John, I'm saying that the Oregon climbing forum has been unusually quiet compared to the other regional forumns.

Yeah, I've seen TRs like you and Timmy have posted, but figured I should stir the pot of the ol' ORE forum.

It's been a while since any new posts or TRs in the ORE forum. Just wanted to know why we aren't representing?!?!?! Looks like our WA, CA, AK brothers have been somewhat busy. Couldn't be the conditions, there's snow all over the NW and people are still getting out. I'm tempted to post a TR on my next climb up on a bar stool just to keep things interesting.

Yep, unsafe climbers are going to be unsafe regardless... drunk, stoned, or otherwise. No arguments there. And for those with the "there was a guy one time...", how do you know? Were you there? Rummors? Legends? Seems retarded for somebody to talk about a previous accident with no basis for what (if any) drugs may have been involved. Experiences speak volumes. For me, I am speaking from my own experience when I say that "for me, never again". I just didn't function clearly enough when stoned. Scared the shit out of me after I sobered up. Besides it makes me not perform worth a shit. Those of you that do, more power to you; whatever works for ya man. My original point was "just never understood the seemingly higher percentage of those who partake in the climbing community". Somebody said on a previous page that it could be because we tend to be more open. Makes sense I guess. Just wondering though, do you think you are actually SAFER smoking than not? There seems to be a few who are suggesting this. I'd like to hear the logic with this. To simply say "I'm less afraid" seems foolish. Please identify yourself while climbing so I know to turn around and get the fuck out of there. I'd rather be around a mellow stoned climber than a fearless stoned climber! Not exactly the same, but a loose comparison could be made with drunk driving.... it's not only you who is being effected. If you drop a cam on someone's head because you are too busy packing your bowl, are we suppose to feel better about it somehow? Not looking to change anybody's lifestyle and you will do what you want to do... it's what makes our society great. But there should be some amount of acknowledgement by those who smoke that in their altered state they can't always make a "clear headed" decision due specifically because, maybe, just this one time, you took one too many hits.

Ok, I have to confess I got Bill on this topic in the first place; I sort of bash another one of his posts earlier today. (Bill... good idea to broach the topic here in spray) The whole pot issue for me is a little larger than just climbing... sure I used to toke a fair amount WHEN I WAS A KID, but I grew out of it. It amazes me that "adults" still have the need to smoke. But even with that said, specifically to the climbing community, the ratio of smokers-to-non has gotta be like twice the ratio for regular population! What gives?

Most of the other altimeter watches only read up to high 13k'. I did a climb in Nepal and needed one that went well beyond that (I think mine tops around 30k'). It seems very accurate, but of course you need to mind taking a base reading at a known elevation when you start out... really no diff than any other barometric pressure-based altimeter. The vectors only cost $150-$200. With it's built in compass I find it pretty cool and useful watch. My only reservation is on technical climbs when I'm bending my wrist a lot, I find that the back of my hand presses buttons and I'm constantly finding that I'm in "logging mode" which eats the battery quicker. Expect to replace the battery about once a year; not a big deal but it's something to factor in.

Sunto vector (watch). Works well and has other bells and whistles built in.

5-7 day life is more like it! But I wonder how well "remembering" really works? I know on mine I can see the sats moving around over a short time. Just makes me think that if you had the thing turned off for a couple of hours positions would have changed enough to call for a complete "re-acquire".

Bill, sorry my bad. Your poem makes it sound like you were reliving some 'experiences'... like, you know. But more in general to the masses then: why does it seem that climbing tends to pull out all the cheech-N-chong rejects coming down from a recent bob marley concert? Is this limitted to the crag crowds? I guess, who really cares anyway; don't mean to hijack the thread. Nice way to work the creativity with the poem!

Hypothetically speaking, you see a potential way point that you suspect you would want to record but before you reach it you turn the unit on? I have an old garmin and it takes 5 to 10 mins to fully aquire (to "3D navigation") so this would require me to either stop for this period of time at said waypoint and wait for it to be ready -OR- I've got to know in advance that I will want to record the location and will just have to turn the unit on? I see this being an issue if you are in unfamiliar locations or when you can't see more than a few hundred yards ahead of you. I dunno, still seems a little bit of a pain and just don't understand why they can't always be left on. Even a "low power record mode" would be nice. Guess I should get to work inventing this!

Well..... I guess this explains the post. Why does it seem that so many climbers are such chemical hounds? Gets pretty freaking old seeing your belayers firing up while/before you start a pitch. Bill... being one of the elder statesmen around here that usually offers sage info, I woulda pegged you for the "argument against". Sorry to harsh your mellow, just struck a chord this morning and I haven't entirely woken up yet.

From the garmin link Timmy posted above.... "Battery life: Up to 12 hours" Is this considered good? I'm in the market too and I don't really see any units that have crap for battery life. Seems to me a person would want to turn the thing on and LEAVE IT ON while it records your trip. But based on the short battery life, it appears all the makers of GPS units expect you to (A) get to a way point location and (B) turn the device on, wait for it to aquire sats, THEN save the location. This seems like such a hassle and not very practical. Am I missing something?

looks fun timmy! always gotta love the TRs that need a decoder ring to understand, yo worrrrrd. fuckin makes me feel old.

What gives on super-feet? Everybody talks them up so much, and I have to admit they are the only insole that I can get away with WITHOUT needing my orthodics. What makes them work so freaking well.... they basically look like anything else and I can't see the magic pixie dust applied to them to make them tick.

last night was week 2. gotta say Gent is a really nice dude and some of his tips are pretty slick; should make aid damn near tollerable with some more practice. just wondering if any other CC'er is attending these sessions? I haven't seen the secret CC.com handshake used by anyone there so I assume not.

WHAT? Sounds like deceptive advertising to me. Buyer beware I guess. Shoulda done more homework.

He's "always" up there?

Now isn't that a good god damn question!?!? Didn't think of it that way, figured it was it's max impact strength as with biners/pro. I aint taking this fucker up to do any top roping, that's fer sure.... pretty much just a 'peice of mind' on steep slopes as a backup for self arrests. Any verticle, high fall potential and this thing is staying at home!

The other night at the evil empire I was all set to pickup a 30M Beal Rando for glacier/not-so-technical routes. Instead I found a 30M Edelweiss Discover for only $10 more; both are 30M 8mm twin ropes. The Edelweiss is rated for 14 falls at 9kn, the Beal only 5 at 4.2kn. Yeah, the Edelweiss is a little heavier, and it has a 7.6% elongation (versus 10% for the Beal), but this seems like a lopsided match-up. Is the Edelweiss Discover that much better than the Rando for only $10 more? Sure hope so since that's the one I bought.

No real threats on the top of the ridge around 9500; just before you start on the flanks of crater rock.

Don't think so, but we were up there this past weekend and the west crater looked like it recently slabbed off... so I wouldn't trudge up that way if I were you.

REI Taku are pretty nice; I love mine.