powderhound

Twin Pillar's: New anchor bolt on top of main pillar, Tyler styled the hand drill in a few minutes flat. You can now safely get back to the tera firma.

agreed....keep posting TR's don't let those bleepers get you down. pretty common, my first three were full of other bs. Nice photos.

i think most people think its our duty to rid the world of critters and varmen.

whats google?

Best route at RR: Fiddler on the Roof, that 180+ foot 10d pitch it by far the best gear protected face climbing I have ever done. The cloud tower is really great but...it just doen't have the position or exposure.

I was thinking...the hagg lake roadcut, it has four bolts and should have zero....the biggest pile of dirt around, one route, not worth the bolts. Anyone else climbed this poor excuse of a route?

you still have that "riddle" that if solved tell you how to get to the lack?

FALSE the only mention of any relative area is out by OakRidge....I would laugh my ass off if someone went out to oakridge thinking they were going to find this place. I have trouble remebering which roads to take and I have been there several times, you are not going to find this area without a bit more help than "in the area of oakridge"

sale fell through......taking offers? SOLD

sale pending

Paul, when you going to send me an ecopy of the guidebook? I am in the back and all.

well bill, your honesty and knowledge are just one of the many reasons I love climbing with ya, hope we can keep it up. thanks for the insight. I would like to thank everyone else that has contributed to this discussion of sorts. keep stoking the fire ps. sorry if this reads not so well, I have consumed a couple PBR's

is your daughter hot...I am a strapping young lad with a well paying job, if she wants an interview, pm me and I will send her the app If I could turn the clock back and looking for adventure & spirit, I would love to have been at the city of rocks prior to Yaniro & Friends (friends=hammer& chisel). The seventies at the city, oh I wish. The anchors are safe for the time being and are working. Further, I feel that rappeling is the most dangerous part of climbing, I take more than a "moment" to think about my face splattered on the ground when I unclip my daisy. I have only been to a couple areas where: onsight, ground up, no cleaning, no inspection is possible; pipestone pass, butte MT and Indian Creek, rock is just dirty. The rock is covered with moss, there is NO way you could lead a route at the Lack ground up onsight without cleaning, because if you could I would have, it is my preferred style. An aid climber might be able to if he brings the ledge, battery powered leaf blower, diesel, all sorts of cleaning tools, ect.....but I am not that climber, plus the cliff is over 100+feet so you often need to rap it to see what the upper sections look like. Personally, I don't think that "genuine boldness" has anything to do with adventure. I just prefer adventure climbing to the “junk show” that’s why I go to the farside instead of ozone, and why when I go to smith I climb routes like the Adventure of the Cowdog and Widow Maker instead of Blue light special and heresy.

There are only a couple (two I believe) designated rap trees the rest are webbing free. Moss grows back, trails grow over, and 100+foot tall several feet wide tree are not going to be strangled by webbing. I see trees that over grow barbed wire all over the place, this is just webbing. But....bolt holes and bolts are not overgrown by the rock. ask an arborist whether wrapping slings around trees is harmless. the moss isn't going to grow back as long as people keep climbing there, nor will the trails grow over as long as people keep using them to get to the crag. the point is that human activity changes things, so if you want it to remain "natural", then you have to ban all activity and close the place to climbing. you guys are a laugh. you think you are so pure because you aren't using bolts but you are still changing the environment. the carbon footprint of manufacturing trad gear has to be greater than that of manufacturing what you need to climb a sport route (the bolts are reused by every climber who does the route whereas trad route requires everyone to have their own equipment). the "capitalistic" climbing gear industry makes a lot more money selling you a cam than it does selling you a quickdraw, yet somehow the cam is some sort of anti-capitalist thing and the quickdraw is selling out to the man. like i said, what a load of bs... What does capitalism or the "industry" and thier sales have to do with climbing tradition. Call me a youth groping and grasping to a time and when climbing was an adventure; NOT a homogenous and antiseptics effort to cater to the lowest common denominator. The quickdraw and bolt have their place...just hopefully never at the Lack. First ascents are not about creating routes for others to enjoy in safety. They are about a climber RISING to the challenge of his chosen line. - leo houlding plus the idea that having a trad rack is significantly increasing my carbon footprint is laughable.

There are only a couple (two I believe) designated rap trees the rest are webbing free. Moss grows back, trails grow over, and 100+foot tall several feet wide tree are not going to be strangled by webbing. I see trees that over grow barbed wire all over the place, this is just webbing. But....bolt holes and bolts are not overgrown by the rock.

fine don't go and speaking of wasting stop breathing my air will ya

Bill, did I miss something? Why do I suddenly feel like Geronimo on Columbus Day... anyone surprised by the fact that joseph is ignorant of what is happening in the larger world outside the backwater of beacon rock? me

i just buy beer and wine there. the wine is so cheap

The basalt is immaculate. The climbing reminds me of other pure trad basalt crags like paradise and devils. I personally do not believe in fixing pins, but i do not deny the damage they cause to the rock. Pounding pins on lead is part of the climbing experience, part that i particularly enjoy. That said I have only used pins on mixed/alpine routes, I haven't yet come across a free climbing section that needed knifeblades, you can put passive in almost anything larger. However there is a decent bit of Aid climbing out there which necessitates pins.

the tree walk that starts at the talus field and takes you to the trail. I call it the hobbit trail

good

Short approach = Hobbit Trail Not close to much except oak ridge There are anchors, trees work great.

The toothpick area is easy to set up...Bill you in? You must be driving your wife carzy by now....its time for some after work fun.

time to walk the hobbit trail if you ask me

back in Oregon...just waiting for the weather to keep staying nice. I want to get back out to the Lack as soon as I can, have you gone out and checked the seepage? Time for some moss cleaning.