powderhound

My circuit: I stay away from CA city of Rocks: all summer devils tower: can get hot in mid summer months Indian creek: if you can climb cracks here you can climb them anywhere. gets to hot after may ten Sleep WY:skip smith and come here, less crowds, better rock, and way better free camping. Good all year Wind River range: great moderate alpine routes Sawtooths: not going to find much under 5.9 here, better be dialed on 5.9 if you come. Red Rocks: going to get way to hot....soon PM if you want a specific camping/dirtbagging information on any of the above areas. P.S. SLC: bunch of areas down in Mormonville, lots of it is pretty good. Good through most of the summer. CO: the boulder and grand junction area will provide more climbing than you could do in a summer

12a send fest Stan on Churning.....44 going on 13a!!!! inspiration

Sick

http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/above/welcome_to_death_oregon_style/ Tyler when are you going to go replace those anchors? Its going to be slammed with gumby's from all over the globe soon. Get some

Wanna put the tape gloves on.... Carpool from pdx/salem...either or Have rope and rack Wouldn't mind a newb as long as you are not a SQUARE. You must be able to follow numerous 5.10's and or either just be my belay slave. Should be a good time, bunch of folks down there. call me: 503-550-3373

The first pitch this year formed up quite different from most years. Many at the hostel were mentioning that normaly it is an easy WI3, but when we were on it it had a 30-35 foot 85-88 degree ice section on it. There were two topo's in the kitchen at ramparts and they both had the final pitch on the last tier listed as WI5. But I thought that it was soild WI4, but maybe it just was just all the leading making me feel a little tired, either way it is a classic in every sense on the word. p.s. Alpine starts suck....start at 11:00am instead.

Would like to thank Dane for being a great partner up in Canada and telling me stories the whole way up. Thought it was pretty cool to get to lead whatever I wanted. Here are a couple other photos from the trip. Polar Circus from the Road The host at the hostel thought we were nuts for starting so late...but I figured hey, its only WI 4. Weeping Wall...wow it really lived up to my expectations great moderate day from the car kinda nice to have a route like this only 5 minutes from the car and be something you can start at noon. I was pretty stoked to onsight this route...I was shaking pretty good by the time I was stretching for the ice. Go Get Some.....Reasons to go back and keep plugging the car full of gas. Thanks again to Dane for the stoke and motivation, I hope I am pulling that hard and in that good of shape when I am his age.

The Neurosurgeon....my cousin is studying to be one at OHSU and he already thinks he is GOD.

So I am looking around for a used pair of ice boots on the good ole craigslist and come across this posting, almost made me shit my pants. I want to know if anyone has taken him up on "leading" mountaineering trips? He can let one person rent the crampons and the partner gets the boots....ha. Craigslist posting HAHAHA

What is the grade/name of that ice flow in the middle of the second to last photo?

this is Primus Suckus... When I was there last weekend...we climbed first on the left...and could see primus suckus...there was nothing between the two climbs. But I do remember a flow to the left of primus suckus.

Were you on a flow that forms to the lookers left of Primus Suckus?

Gm stock $2.18 I can't believe they are asking for another 30 billion and this is what they are going to do for us: fire 47,000 workers, and close 5 plants in the U.S. WTF. I say force them into Chapter 7, liquidate the assets and allow for the entrance of "new" car company's that can start from fresh, with out the hassles of UAW. Seems simple enough, they are too big to be profitable and they make shitty cars...time to revamp the auto industry business plan cause apparently the bigger is better approach didn't work.

http://www.johnfrieh.blogspot.com/ pictures from the weekend

Climbed: First on the left- in interesting shape about foot and half wide at bottom. Climbed up under the Unnamed A, decided that everything is way foreshortened and I didn't have the balls to swing out on to the 20 foot hanging curtain. I think I want to go back with a sled or fourwheeler and bring a drill and put some bolts in the roof. I think it would make a great mixed climb. Pillar not in.

Strobach: First on the left: thin a steep seems to have fallen down and now reformed. Ice dreams: still looks nice a blue and fat Dropline: In Sudden change of plan: looked fatter then when I was there last week Sad Ce bu: Not in Watchtower: Still not in, unless you wanna dry tool for 80+ feet Primus Suckus: WI 5+ conditions ICe bleeder: WI5??? Tower of Power: touching but looking scary All in all, worth it for a day trip if you have a sled, but I don't think it is worth the slow shoe.

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/85519970

Yeah...blue sky and sending temps at Smith.

Does he have long shaggy curly black hair?

Snowshoes

There is a picture with lines drawn in on it floating around on this site somewhere.

Is that Spencer "The Kid" Winchester?

Yes Please

"hate bags" is the term that "Al" from the creek uses to describe climbers from CO. I thought that while its not the best description it was so funny at the time that I can't but help use it. yeah I guess I am just spoiled and used to having the place nearly to myself. Generally, if your an ice climber your going to be a pretty chill dude or dudette

I just realized that, thats the Ice fest Weekend....Gapers beware...lots of hate bags rolling in from the south.