powderhound

is that lev? if so he is a rad trad climber as well...

count me in

that was me Making me wish I would have just ditched this CPA shit and spent some time and $ at the Ruth...glad you slayed and didn't get slayed. Lets get ready to roll to The Wadd.

wow.....if a route has gone free than whats the deal with placing a green alien, people clean up old mank iron all the time, if it didn't happen at places like el cap than it would just be a clip up. plus free insinuates that all gear is placed on lead.

thanks for sharing, Craig keep me in mindin the coming months if you need a P.

me improve? I improve through climbing not training. But these help me build a better base for when I can get in a climbing cycle.

I take my vipers everywhere...the viper swings better, but weighs a decent bit more. Don't think there is going to be much difference trying to arrest with the viper or the Aztarex. If you plan on just climbing volvcanoes, not much need for a technical ice tool.

photos from AK usually suck

The west face is often climbed in late january and february, I have done several trips in may...always very good. The water next the cabin needs to be boiled there is lots of grazy cattle in the area. You can rap with one rope with a we bit on downclimbing just make sure you rap the ridge and not the noreth face, so I never see a reason to bring anything more. There might be snow on the north face side, that you decend but just bring some boots. Standard rack is pretty good, bring a good selection of small wires, hb offsets work real great out there.

hopefully not...hopefully his training has made him hard to kill: root canal: landing zone at the base of ham and eggs

john is gone....will be back when the root canal spits him out.

anyone seen this thing recently? I still need day #34 an 35...

what is that

Thanks for the correction, I wasn't quite sure if it was WW1 or 2. The cleansing comment is mostly to stir britches and make a play on words that might incite more debate/conversation.

So recently in the news we have seen the Swine Flu which is and will be hyped just as much as the Bird Flu but, here is what I am wondering...when will we see the next GLOBAL disease epidemic? We haven't seen a mass death from an epidemic since the 1940's during the end of WWII. I may just have a glass getting bout empty view, but, I just don't have the faith that science can keep outpacing evolution. Millions died in the 1940's; what will happen next time after years of suppresion. -just a thought.... parents got home from mexico yesterday, seem fine.

RodJ: please look: tyler's ACTION speaks for itself. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/643064/Oregon_Bolt_Replacement#Post643064

you mean the old soft iron knifeblade, with a stardrive through the tip.

is that like that stuff that can kill you?

expect some deadfall, post some pics of the north face for me will ya....I think there might be some mixed melt freeze potential on that face.

if they have been left on for a long time...like 1+ month then i say it free game to move them to another route, but don't take them from the area.

Trip: Trout, Steins, Twin Pillars - the usual Date: 4/20/2009 Trip Report: Lets first REWIND to the last day of tax season april 15th, also the day I took another henious CPA exam. Directly, afterwards I proceeded to Spirit Mt. and go up and than down, but thats why they are still in business. Anyways, the next day I left for a little TC action. No partner, just betting on the TC community and just good clamberin' folk. Thanks, to Aaron and Sara for letting me join in as a random number 3, and to stan for showing up from portland, to climb on friday. Once again, TC offered great climbing with good people. My time at TC went something like this: I met a set of wonder twin's that pointed me to the long march through the space between to find the monster that saught my soul. Two days, not another sole in sight cept' the buddies on the other end of the rope. The river is getting warmer and the campground will soon be full of wild master baiters. On friday, stan and i parted ways with a shared beer and promises of climbs yet to come, he was off to smith to getter done on his proj. I was headed to stiens for three days of .....unknown, but with the unknown came the ability to climb whatever i wanted each day. Saturday: Rays food place, loaded up on all sorts of wonderful car camping food and bev's. Drove out the gravel roads way away from town to the gnar. Tyler, had a declassified uber duper secret topo drawn, from a buddy about a couple possible routes on the formations around the steins pillar. Sideshow Bob: Begins on downhill side of unnamed fomation before stiens. Sweet f7 with solid bolts and anchors, the ledges leave plenty of room for the "now." four pitchs of climbing that you wouldn't really like. looking down p1 , leading p2, "if you wanna get real wild you should stop and pull the camera up, real men take photo's on lead." the final pitch sucked hindsight for the day- don't make animal grunting noises around blind corners there could quite possibly be 20+ people having a wonderful saturday afternoon until some smelly grunting hippy came slogging along. camp at the bone yard.... "dude there is another fucking skeleton out here...is that like six?" sleep until 9am....think thats cause we were drinking tell...? drive 45+ more minutes east to the Twin Pillars...tyler had really wanted to climb to this summit, and I just asked that he take me on an adventure. We couldn't make it to the trail head because of snow...so we just trompped through the "bad burn forest" for an hour 45. We both relished in the sunlight and dead pines. -"so what do you think we should take, is there any mention of gear?" "or whats on top" maybe these? -"we should just take it all" coping the most up to date information so we began on what we thought was the middle of the north face but...it wasn't. "i would much rather climb that overhanging crack than this loose face" so off we went to this corner thing that we now believe to be the campfire variation to the north face route. Stoked about the solid rock more on lead shots... we summited and head back across the landscape trying to beat the sunset....we both made it back to the truck sans headlamp. at the truck we found our beer, beats, and “the now” “why don’t more people understand the importance of how great a day of adventure can be?” proceed to party with brats and beer 4/20/09 Wake @ 11:00am…dingle around for a little while, eat, celebrate the wonderful holiday, arrive at the stiens pillar around 1:00pm, caffeinated and happy. We had hopes of the east face but it was 80 degrees and we wanted nice comfy ledges and shade. So the regular route it was. Solo p1, f fun. Tyler styled p2, this is me following the short traverse. P5 lil aid, lil free Continue up the regular route, summit in the sun and celebrate a couple more times. WTF: why no summit register Gear Notes: the "now" Approach Notes: follow the gravel road

erik...i know that you live in WA, but is there even any granite in OR?

yeah...and the north face starts about 15 feet left of the groove in a right facing corner. The second pitch of the north face climb...joins the weakness above the groove. did you guys climb the pillar? We didn't find anything in the way of anchor material on top, we were wondering how long its been since the thing has been summited.

ha for us hardly i think we did that F6 A3 route but who even knows! the main pillar is free via the "north face route" f7!!!! the campfire route could be free, but it would be a ballsy endeavor, not something you would do onsight, having only done the lower half free on TR, I thought the overhang would go around 5.11, maybe harder.

hell yes...nice TR