powderhound

you mean the old soft iron knifeblade, with a stardrive through the tip.

is that like that stuff that can kill you?

expect some deadfall, post some pics of the north face for me will ya....I think there might be some mixed melt freeze potential on that face.

if they have been left on for a long time...like 1+ month then i say it free game to move them to another route, but don't take them from the area.

Trip: Trout, Steins, Twin Pillars - the usual Date: 4/20/2009 Trip Report: Lets first REWIND to the last day of tax season april 15th, also the day I took another henious CPA exam. Directly, afterwards I proceeded to Spirit Mt. and go up and than down, but thats why they are still in business. Anyways, the next day I left for a little TC action. No partner, just betting on the TC community and just good clamberin' folk. Thanks, to Aaron and Sara for letting me join in as a random number 3, and to stan for showing up from portland, to climb on friday. Once again, TC offered great climbing with good people. My time at TC went something like this: I met a set of wonder twin's that pointed me to the long march through the space between to find the monster that saught my soul. Two days, not another sole in sight cept' the buddies on the other end of the rope. The river is getting warmer and the campground will soon be full of wild master baiters. On friday, stan and i parted ways with a shared beer and promises of climbs yet to come, he was off to smith to getter done on his proj. I was headed to stiens for three days of .....unknown, but with the unknown came the ability to climb whatever i wanted each day. Saturday: Rays food place, loaded up on all sorts of wonderful car camping food and bev's. Drove out the gravel roads way away from town to the gnar. Tyler, had a declassified uber duper secret topo drawn, from a buddy about a couple possible routes on the formations around the steins pillar. Sideshow Bob: Begins on downhill side of unnamed fomation before stiens. Sweet f7 with solid bolts and anchors, the ledges leave plenty of room for the "now." four pitchs of climbing that you wouldn't really like. looking down p1 , leading p2, "if you wanna get real wild you should stop and pull the camera up, real men take photo's on lead." the final pitch sucked hindsight for the day- don't make animal grunting noises around blind corners there could quite possibly be 20+ people having a wonderful saturday afternoon until some smelly grunting hippy came slogging along. camp at the bone yard.... "dude there is another fucking skeleton out here...is that like six?" sleep until 9am....think thats cause we were drinking tell...? drive 45+ more minutes east to the Twin Pillars...tyler had really wanted to climb to this summit, and I just asked that he take me on an adventure. We couldn't make it to the trail head because of snow...so we just trompped through the "bad burn forest" for an hour 45. We both relished in the sunlight and dead pines. -"so what do you think we should take, is there any mention of gear?" "or whats on top" maybe these? -"we should just take it all" coping the most up to date information so we began on what we thought was the middle of the north face but...it wasn't. "i would much rather climb that overhanging crack than this loose face" so off we went to this corner thing that we now believe to be the campfire variation to the north face route. Stoked about the solid rock more on lead shots... we summited and head back across the landscape trying to beat the sunset....we both made it back to the truck sans headlamp. at the truck we found our beer, beats, and “the now” “why don’t more people understand the importance of how great a day of adventure can be?” proceed to party with brats and beer 4/20/09 Wake @ 11:00am…dingle around for a little while, eat, celebrate the wonderful holiday, arrive at the stiens pillar around 1:00pm, caffeinated and happy. We had hopes of the east face but it was 80 degrees and we wanted nice comfy ledges and shade. So the regular route it was. Solo p1, f fun. Tyler styled p2, this is me following the short traverse. P5 lil aid, lil free Continue up the regular route, summit in the sun and celebrate a couple more times. WTF: why no summit register Gear Notes: the "now" Approach Notes: follow the gravel road

erik...i know that you live in WA, but is there even any granite in OR?

yeah...and the north face starts about 15 feet left of the groove in a right facing corner. The second pitch of the north face climb...joins the weakness above the groove. did you guys climb the pillar? We didn't find anything in the way of anchor material on top, we were wondering how long its been since the thing has been summited.

ha for us hardly i think we did that F6 A3 route but who even knows! the main pillar is free via the "north face route" f7!!!! the campfire route could be free, but it would be a ballsy endeavor, not something you would do onsight, having only done the lower half free on TR, I thought the overhang would go around 5.11, maybe harder.

hell yes...nice TR

Twin Pillar's: New anchor bolt on top of main pillar, Tyler styled the hand drill in a few minutes flat. You can now safely get back to the tera firma.

agreed....keep posting TR's don't let those bleepers get you down. pretty common, my first three were full of other bs. Nice photos.

i think most people think its our duty to rid the world of critters and varmen.

whats google?

Best route at RR: Fiddler on the Roof, that 180+ foot 10d pitch it by far the best gear protected face climbing I have ever done. The cloud tower is really great but...it just doen't have the position or exposure.

I was thinking...the hagg lake roadcut, it has four bolts and should have zero....the biggest pile of dirt around, one route, not worth the bolts. Anyone else climbed this poor excuse of a route?

you still have that "riddle" that if solved tell you how to get to the lack?

FALSE the only mention of any relative area is out by OakRidge....I would laugh my ass off if someone went out to oakridge thinking they were going to find this place. I have trouble remebering which roads to take and I have been there several times, you are not going to find this area without a bit more help than "in the area of oakridge"

Paul, when you going to send me an ecopy of the guidebook? I am in the back and all.

well bill, your honesty and knowledge are just one of the many reasons I love climbing with ya, hope we can keep it up. thanks for the insight. I would like to thank everyone else that has contributed to this discussion of sorts. keep stoking the fire ps. sorry if this reads not so well, I have consumed a couple PBR's

is your daughter hot...I am a strapping young lad with a well paying job, if she wants an interview, pm me and I will send her the app If I could turn the clock back and looking for adventure & spirit, I would love to have been at the city of rocks prior to Yaniro & Friends (friends=hammer& chisel). The seventies at the city, oh I wish. The anchors are safe for the time being and are working. Further, I feel that rappeling is the most dangerous part of climbing, I take more than a "moment" to think about my face splattered on the ground when I unclip my daisy. I have only been to a couple areas where: onsight, ground up, no cleaning, no inspection is possible; pipestone pass, butte MT and Indian Creek, rock is just dirty. The rock is covered with moss, there is NO way you could lead a route at the Lack ground up onsight without cleaning, because if you could I would have, it is my preferred style. An aid climber might be able to if he brings the ledge, battery powered leaf blower, diesel, all sorts of cleaning tools, ect.....but I am not that climber, plus the cliff is over 100+feet so you often need to rap it to see what the upper sections look like. Personally, I don't think that "genuine boldness" has anything to do with adventure. I just prefer adventure climbing to the “junk show” that’s why I go to the farside instead of ozone, and why when I go to smith I climb routes like the Adventure of the Cowdog and Widow Maker instead of Blue light special and heresy.

There are only a couple (two I believe) designated rap trees the rest are webbing free. Moss grows back, trails grow over, and 100+foot tall several feet wide tree are not going to be strangled by webbing. I see trees that over grow barbed wire all over the place, this is just webbing. But....bolt holes and bolts are not overgrown by the rock. ask an arborist whether wrapping slings around trees is harmless. the moss isn't going to grow back as long as people keep climbing there, nor will the trails grow over as long as people keep using them to get to the crag. the point is that human activity changes things, so if you want it to remain "natural", then you have to ban all activity and close the place to climbing. you guys are a laugh. you think you are so pure because you aren't using bolts but you are still changing the environment. the carbon footprint of manufacturing trad gear has to be greater than that of manufacturing what you need to climb a sport route (the bolts are reused by every climber who does the route whereas trad route requires everyone to have their own equipment). the "capitalistic" climbing gear industry makes a lot more money selling you a cam than it does selling you a quickdraw, yet somehow the cam is some sort of anti-capitalist thing and the quickdraw is selling out to the man. like i said, what a load of bs... What does capitalism or the "industry" and thier sales have to do with climbing tradition. Call me a youth groping and grasping to a time and when climbing was an adventure; NOT a homogenous and antiseptics effort to cater to the lowest common denominator. The quickdraw and bolt have their place...just hopefully never at the Lack. First ascents are not about creating routes for others to enjoy in safety. They are about a climber RISING to the challenge of his chosen line. - leo houlding plus the idea that having a trad rack is significantly increasing my carbon footprint is laughable.

There are only a couple (two I believe) designated rap trees the rest are webbing free. Moss grows back, trails grow over, and 100+foot tall several feet wide tree are not going to be strangled by webbing. I see trees that over grow barbed wire all over the place, this is just webbing. But....bolt holes and bolts are not overgrown by the rock.

fine don't go and speaking of wasting stop breathing my air will ya

Bill, did I miss something? Why do I suddenly feel like Geronimo on Columbus Day... anyone surprised by the fact that joseph is ignorant of what is happening in the larger world outside the backwater of beacon rock? me

i just buy beer and wine there. the wine is so cheap