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jmace

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Everything posted by jmace

  1. all said and done there is something like 4-6 weeks that its probably dry and open for climbing so...
  2. Ive heard good things about Crap Crags from folks who have climbed it..sounds like a grand adventure
  3. For tools and maybe for removing tree stumps that the other new router decided to chop but not remove I think its above 10 000 dollars now, unfortunately most of the story is missing this has been going on for quite a while now.
  4. Ya like climbing trees in squamish is so unheard of..like the tree on tantalus wall to over come the roof, or the old start to angels crest.. I would rather see big cedar trees stay and get rid of the bush
  5. umm ya..have you ever seen the traffic on The buttress, UE or Upper Echelon Yup and he came back and cleaned them up I climbed on or around those routes a few times last year the only real problem with this route is that it lies in the falcon closure and may not get the traffic it needs to keep it clean..then again there are alot of 5.7 climbers that this will appeal too, so we will see
  6. There was a TR for Whitecap on this site by philfort a few years back, I was interested in the face and pm'd him for some beta..I coulndt find the TR but I did still have the PM not sure if its of any use to you but here it is Cheers
  7. Have you checked the CAJ..? Or email Don Serl Iam sure he has some photos of the face from when he climbed it
  8. jmace

    New Female Posters

    Crazy, I actually have never seen a TR from you..maybe it depends on how much you actually climb
  9. jmace

    Where to honeymoon?

    Hiking in the Italian Dolomites: hut to hut, is not crowded in sept, weather is perfect, showers, amazing scenery and you can finish it off with a coupe days in Venice/florence whatever!! Belize sucks donkey dicks..travel to Central America to speak english with fat texans who go there to dive and not have to worry about a language barrier
  10. As is was pretty obvious there was no way they could build a road, trail and parking in such short time it comes as no surprise that Skaha will NOT be open for Easter. in addition no parking or roads will be built till next fall, possibly a trail to the new sublot will be built if they can get approval. So as it stands all access points are illegal http://skaha.org/
  11. The joker in my mind is sort of silly..there is not one single benefit of having a 9.1 mm half or single..7.5 mm twin is great for alpine, or a 8 or 8.5 double the brits do it the right way
  12. jmace

    New Female Posters

    thats not actually climbing its more of a social thing so they can say they climb..doesnt really count Its not perplexing at all..I climb and my SO doesnt need too, in fact I would prefer she doesnt so that I can continue to enjoy my passion with out having to deal with her. It is my time and I would like to keep it that way. I feel sorry for folks who choose not too and I have to listen to them fight over stupid shit. thankfully my exposure to this crap is limited to my time at the crags which is only early season training. If you have a girl who you want to spend every waking moment with then have at it.. make sense? personally I enjoy girls with manicures and pedicures...short skirts and tight jeans..not rough hands, scraped knuckles and mosquito bites
  13. Dont twins stretch more thereby absorbing more force than a double..? if thats true then falling on a double rope system with both ropes in one piece will put more stress on the pro than a twin system. The better thing to do is only clip one double rope to a piece thereby halfing the force on that piece as opposed to both doubles clipped in. I climb on twins and doubles each has its pro's and cons, however I only climb on a single when cragging
  14. jmace

    New Female Posters

    all replies were directly related to the idea of climbing with a SO you made it personal here Go mark those labs, the kids need to study them for the upcoming tests
  15. jmace

    New Female Posters

    the only positive I have heard from either male or female is that it looks good in the magazines..?
  16. jmace

    New Female Posters

    At Climbing
  17. jmace

    New Female Posters

    See a girl who has also figured it out...a rare breed.
  18. jmace

    New Female Posters

    How about you get your own life baby..see you later
  19. jmace

    New Female Posters

    ahh he was probaly talking to me.. generalizations are easy..look at bugs post..nice to have a SO who has other passions and who can bring something to the relationship..why do I need a SO who climbs theres not one good reason and plenty of bad ones no thanks
  20. jmace

    New Female Posters

    climbing girlfriends is just a plain bad idea...there is actually not one plus to having one that does
  21. No doubt Sobo..right in the pooper I say!!
  22. Id like to hear more..
  23. The Map is quite easy to read the bottom axis is the timeline, which goes from right to left in zulu time. the left axis is pressure in mb, or you can convert to height the red lines are isotherms, the wind barbs give direction and strength and the shaded areas of which there are very few in this map is relative humidity, above 70% is clouds above 90% is rain/snow eg: Follow the zero degree isotherm,(freezing level)at 05/12 (4am tomorrow) you see the zero line at 925 mb (750 m) then go to 06/12 (4am thurs morn) and its 775mb ( 2100m) then drops to 850 mb (1500m) on 7/12 (4am fri) notice you begin to see some humidity creep in which corresponds to the cloudy forecast for Friday 950 mb = 500m 900 mb = 1000m 800mb = 2000m 700mb = 3000m
  24. whatever looks best..I went more or less straight up from the notch using trees for pro Your right about thursday being a little more sloppy as opposed to tomorrow..if we can get rid of these couds and clear up over night tomorrow would probably be better appears as though some warm air may come in up high overnight into thursday..which is why Seymours Alpine forecasts is calling for 2100m fr levels..still some radiative cooling but..could be sloppy..20cm of new last night as well you could always head to Harveys N face as Plan b if its too warm out in the morning and maybe have better luck on the north face http://www.atmos.washington.edu/mm5rt/rt/showtimeheight_d2.cgi?initmodel=NAM&yyyymmddhh=current_nam&loc=cyvr&locname=Vancouver,BC&latlon=49.18N,123.16W
  25. read the article it aint mine man..its sponsored by all the ice screw manufacturers you talk about I just copied the quote it does apply to all ice screws
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