corvallisclimb
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Posts posted by corvallisclimb
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oly what kind of car do you drive?
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Ya I like to hike and I just really enjoy the area. I know there are some aid lines on Elephants Perch, they had some of the topos at the Tool Shed. Just wondering if one of those or any other where more on the classic/more traveled end of the spectrum.
PS John is your mailing address still the same?
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same crack, i think you went right following obvious weakness where i went left continuing the line with a bolt to the anchors wich where in place. but yeah i think the hangers are spraypainted black.
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Mabey we are thinking of a slightly differnt line? After the crack where I continued the line with the bolt adding on another 20 ft or so of climbing(pulling over a roof part with an extremely reachy dynamic move for me), I pulled lots of loose shit off on TR before the lead. If you guys led the same line I am thinking of that is fucking bold.
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Dont really remember what he looked like, he just said he was the one who put those anchor bolts there on top of the finger crack. I didn't talk to him for very long, but I thought I rememberd him throwing 1996 out there.
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Ya I belive I met Matt out there, cuz he was the one who said he put the anchors atop the finger crack but never led it, and okayed I add a bolt to make it leadable. He said it was a little later he did that 96ish, I think I first went there in 99/00, and at that time only very few things where clean. Recently there has been a ton of cleaning all over those parts. Someone posted the directions on-line and now people regularly take the trip from PDX to visit.
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Because they retro-bolted a once prouder route. Did Jim not fully explain himself in his post?
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Cool thanks Jim, just was wondering the ratings of the newer lines, for a small guidebook project I am working on. See ya tuesday.
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I really enjoyed free climbing in the sawtooths... the rock is amazing. I'm wondering if there are any classic aid lines like liberty crack or something like that in that area or anywhere else in Idaho. Anything good with 5.9 and under free?
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damnit i cant even make a worthy post in spray
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Looking for info on who bolted these routes there. Looks to be mabey the work of Dave Tvedt, anyone know? I would like to get in contact with the person.
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no i think the patagonia papparazzi caught your act on HD film and sold it with out you knowing!
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hmmm shitfaced aid climbing lowers all ratings to A1
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wow this thread changed courses
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yeah discredit all fas and give them to the natives
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..i also would not claim to be responsible for fa's on boulders, i mean really...you have no idea who may have climbed those boulders before you, they make great perches for launching knapped projectiles into big game...get my drift...
I'm guessing they went the easiest way up the easy part of the bolder as opposed to the easiest way up the hardest part. sure they may have gone up some 5.8 jugs, but I'm guessing they did not go the inverted v4 route from the sit.
yeah seriously, i cant imagine a hunter busting out v whatever the hell any of that means with his gun slung over his shoulder
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oh cappelini- IM SURE you know that i dont own a bouldering pad, i have one friend who i go there with that owns a single small one, and i could probably count the number of times on one hand ive botherd to use it(i consider my self and aid climber and say how i "hate" bouldering)... i never boulder(because im weak as shit) and i think pads are aid. the reason we belive we made some of the fas, are the same reasons why you would belive you climbed an roped fa. we had to cut the trails, spend hours and hours of cleaning, this is probably the mossiest place ive ever climbed. and it was only revealed recently due to logging. all the boulder have natural andchors and walk offs.
i just get the feeling from everyone that you think im a fucking moron. ive thought about all of this shit before, i know when and when not to claim and FA etc etc. i think every one is aussming way to much about me and this place i speak of. i am younger than most every one on this site, and mabey it shows but i like to try and stick to old school ethics, pads and bolts-in the wrong places to me are wrong. i recently just caved into using a power drill. find out more facts, before you try and make me look wrong and stupid.
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Does it give you wood to work yourself into such a state of high ethical dudgeon?
No, it doesnt not why do you think it does? The fact is this is mainly a bouldering area, there is one "roped" climb wich i put up using gear and 1 bolt. But for me, this
was the first time something i fa'd or what ever you want to call it had bolts added to it.
and after all whod place a rawl 5p and a fixe wedge for an anchor?Am I missing something? What's wrong with that? We frequently mix up 1/2", 3/8", 5- piece, wedge, buttonheads, pins, zinc plated, stainless, etc. I see no problem with it as long as it's solid. It certainly doesn't guarantee they didn't know what they were doing.
Okay sure anything goes for wall anchors and stuff, one fatty and some button heads and or machine heads. But this is a top rope anchor drilled from a sitting on your ass stance. Why not just do it once, do it right? I guess in the long run it comes down to personal opinion, but i would never place 2 mismatched bolts for a top rope anchor. mabey im a perfectionist, or want things to match.
It certainly doesn't guarantee they didn't know what they were doing.Nor does the fact that they cratered a hole.
Okay I guess you might have to see the holes and bolt placement, ya sure everyone craters a hole a little bit from time to time. But if I was drilling from a sitting on my ass stance i would try as hard as possible to make a perfect hole. one of the holes i found to be craterd so bad i probably wouldnt have put a bolt in it. they beat that wedge down in there so hard it mushroomed the tip, the rawl was barley tightend, obvious hammer marks all over around the bolts. So I seriously hope it wasnt someone with some bolting experince, because I would hate to get on one of their routes.
so mabey i didnt make my self clear enough at the begining, but i get the feeling everyone thinks im wrong here. anyways
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wait acctually its 10 ft, thats not even the one your thinking of ian. fuck em they got to chop, was wet though so no epoxy in the holes yet. it was obvious they where hand drilled by noobs, they craterd the shit out of the holes. and after all whod place a rawl 5p and a fixe wedge for an anchor?
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That belay really looks like it will help
plus those TWO screamers on the first peice would for sure keep his ass off the deck!
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dont try and spend a night on your first wall you will cluster fuck.
practice lots before your first wall so it isnt practice. 
or
Does anymore of Iron Horse go on clean aid?
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
dcramer-
i dont think skin graph goes clean, jake might have cam hooked it but i think he still nailed some pins. i know i nailed a few pins but i only did that first pitch.