corvallisclimb
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Posts posted by corvallisclimb
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any one want to do a wall at index pm me and well work something out
tyler
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I got a copy of this book a week or two ago since then I've had some time to sit down and read through it. I'm rather unimpressed with the quality of the book. It seems as if the authors mabey where in a hurry to finish the project so they kinda slacked off in some aspects. They left out any first ascent information, nothin in the area descriptions or anything, wich I feel is a must in any guide book. They made up their own names for routes, and possibly made up info or just copied it from other publications. They threw in some places that are just a joke, and make them sound like good beginner places and such, Green Ridge and the HW11 crags. They give little to no history on the areas or Oregon climbing in genereal just the usually "Smith Rock was the birthplace of sport climbing". I really didnt like the fact that they left that stuff out, they gave no indication as to why the routes in the Menagerie are so runout, doing this left out the whole ethics of the place. On the good side of things they did throw in some cool places such as Bulo Point and Anthony Lakes. Also they did a good job with lots of picutres that I like. All and all though I have to give it a
Any one else have anything to say about it? -
i might be intrested in 1-5 and 7 if youd be intrested in breaking em up?
PM me
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Lots of stuff on e-bay usually.
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the move out of the cave is some of the airiest 5.8 moves you will ever experience.
Though easily aided as well if it gets to you. Or keep going further right for a killer 5.8 sport variation Monkey Off My Back.
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I really suggest at least useing some sort of aiders, I imagine it would make things alot easier than just trying to yard up 20 bolts on very steep rock. A biner can always be a fifi hook, tape it open if you really want. Read in freedom of the hills about the basic movement of aid climbing, if you know that it should be as straight forward as it can be. Oh and its Bohn street.
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Everything looks clear on TFJ. If your going to rope up for TFJ bring some long, like 20ft slings for anchors and 2 24" runners for fixed peices on the crawl. Some large nuts will protect the last pitch. Pretty straightforward, just follow the climbers trail.
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there great for when you just wanna say hey im a loser
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I just got back from working on the Trail Head fire, non of the trails on the East side where closed from fires, but you can always call the Stanley ranger station. I did see a wolf on the west side near Grandjean. John, have you checked out all the hot springs around there? I had never realized there are so damn many! Also do you still drive staight up 21? I think its much quicker to take 55 to 44 and cut over to Lowman, then up 21.
Sawtooth NF on fire
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I need a cheap but solid tent to set up in fire camps and I'm wondering if any one has had any experince with this tent link ? I would never want to leave my bibler set up, and I dont always have the best ground for a to set up my SD clip flashlight. Has any one used this brand of tent before?
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that panoramic shot is fuckin rad
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I don't think he's acting dude!
Oh shit
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Its really funny when you post to act like a complete red-neck moron. That one really hasnt gotten old. There is a time and a place...
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"A climb is a work of art, a creation of the men who made the first ascent. To make it more difficult by chopping bolts is an insult to those who put it up and to deprive others of the joy of repeating the route as the first party did it..... Better to paint our own pictures and write our own poems....to bring a climb down to one's level by placing bolts ( or pitons on an all-nutclimb) shows an equally lamentable lack of respect for, and degrades the accomplishments of, its creators. If we do not disturbe the route done in a shoddy manner (e.g. the placement of unnecessary bolts), it will do no harm, and may provide a good climb for the less capable. And as for the route done in elegant fashion - let it remain as a pinnacle of achievement to which we may aspire. Better that we raise our skill than lower the climb. So let it be." Basic Rockcraft by Royal Robbins.
did he say that before or after the WEML??
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Cobra, prolly another failed attempt on Castle Crags Direct.
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trout creek is sharp! The best supercrack is in prineville.
? prineville, oh plz do tell, I can't get enough of crack, gotta have it,
Well yeah since Les Schwab is in the hospital for good eveyone in prineville kinda lost it so instead of tires now its meth
but the dude at the quick lube, i belive has the quick hook up -
trout creek is sharp! The best supercrack is in prineville.
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I remember looking at a topo of a 10 or so pitch 5.7 in the visitors center. Didnt seem to far off the beaten path.
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I finally climbed out at Beacon for the first time. Great place! We climbed SE corner(why isnt there a hanger on that bolt on the crux pitch? should there be?), then came down and climbed and cleaned a little bit off of Wrong Gull and the 10c to the left of it. I forgot that ones name but the anchor is really poor, I think it needs a bolt or two, or at least the sling needs to be replaced.
I belive I found a dead perergrine on the trail just below the arch of terror or what ever. I dont know if this is a problem or not but I figured I'd pass the word along, it looked fresh and when I walked by 10 minnutes after the first time something had moved it 10 or so feet. I have a picture if any one wants to verify.
Anyways thanks to Joseph and all who have helped keep beacon a great place to climb!
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I did that road in a subaru outback, not jacked up, no fat tires. There was one spot we had to fill in a hole with some rocks but besides that it seemed to work just fine.
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nice, music in the wild is very fun sometimes
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what size range of aliens do they cover?
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looking for a partner in the next few days for something im working on about an hour from corvallis. anyone??
The Official Smiffy Rox Tuft Luv......
in Climber's Board
Posted
my car is in sisters and im in corvallis? any one headed that way want to help me with a ride, i would like to attend.