corvallisclimb
-
Posts
1270 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by corvallisclimb
-
-
Just geuss I will have to wait till fall!!
If they where smart they would allready have been moved. Go check it out that thing is rad! If you do know what I'm talking about
-
A couple of days ago I was checking out a known rock wall in Oregon to scope some climbing. This things huge but only has 3 routes, so there is'nt a real trail or anything leading to it. You follow above one side of a drainage for about a mile of uphill manzanita choked forest slogging. About a half mile into the hike I thought I heard a voice or something and look up to see a guy running through the woods with camo gear on and a knife in his hand. Immediatly I thought oh shit hunters and yelled towards the guy who ran and hid "were people, not deer" but still kinda thinking that it was weird the guy just ran off. I take a couple more steps up hill and thats when I saw the 60 or so foot tall weed plants, yelled to my girlfriend to come to me and then into the woods I yelled "hey were cool we mean no harm". At this point I still wasnt sure if they where crazy rednecks with guns or stupid hippies. I stood there and looked at the plants for a little bit, they were encased with wire, there was also a back pack sprayer painted green laying there. Now I'm just thinking shit well we hiked all the way up here we might as well go scope the rock. After a quick trip up to the rock we made are way down to the truck skirting around where we had found the plants to try to avoid any problems. Kinda an odd vibe the rest of the hike thinking someone may be watching. Anyways we got back down to my truck on the side of the road, and as I was loading some stuff into the back a car with some guys slowly drove by giving me a very odd look. I gave them the watch out signal as they crept by. Soon we where onthe road and headed out as we caught up with the same car, sure enough they pulled over as they thought they where being followed then got right out behind me. After seeing the guys in the car I kinda figured they where stupid hippie that we freaked out way more than either of us.
Anyone else have a crazy story like this of growers or something like that getting in the way of a climb or something. Was a trip for me
-
bump... will take offers and send pictures
-
smith rock state park
Pheonix Buttress - Carbid
2 Anchor bolts
W Mark D 4/07
-
Redpoint should let you copy anything you need out of Lawsons red suppliment. Or mabey Mountain Project will have what your looking for.
-
ya those bolts are now bomberhow about the last pitch of "tale of two %#)@#&". Did it a few years back and it was some weird 5.9 moves protected by some crappy 1/4" bolts. -
As for red rover, that vaguely rings a bell. If it is a trad line with natural gear options why bother with a bolt. If it is a sport route or there are no other gear options fire up the drill. I'm sure there are other routes out there that have one bolt anchors that could probably be re-evaluated, I can think of at least one.
ya its a sport route that goes off after the 1st pitch of super slab. its usually pretty stupid IMO usually the FA party being lazy or poor. what other routes are you thinking of?
on amphetimine grip right next to red rover, at the better belay spot theres an ancient fixed pin, where the gears not the best, does any one care if this fixed pins replaced?
amphetamine group was climbed in the ground up era and should be honored as such. imho, the pin should be replaced with a pin - if even at all. when the pin comes out a nice stopper may go in.
Exactly why I suggested pin for pin. The spot most likely wouldnt take a nut, it would be a thin LA I think. Right now its an ancient ring angle, I'd assume from the FA. I'll probably just leave it, but I much prefer that belay spot on that route, but the rest of the gear in the belay are some akward flared aliens. Not the most secure for the run out above. Classic route that deserves more traffic.
-
As for red rover, that vaguely rings a bell. If it is a trad line with natural gear options why bother with a bolt. If it is a sport route or there are no other gear options fire up the drill. I'm sure there are other routes out there that have one bolt anchors that could probably be re-evaluated, I can think of at least one.
ya its a sport route that goes off after the 1st pitch of super slab. its usually pretty stupid IMO usually the FA party being lazy or poor. what other routes are you thinking of?
on amphetimine grip right next to red rover, at the better belay spot theres an ancient fixed pin, where the gears not the best, does any one care if this fixed pins replaced?
-
What are people thoughts on making the 1 bolt anchor on red rover on the red wall a 2 bolt anchor? or making the line go on to anchor? thats my possibility?
-
I think Matt's point about rigging the first 3 is interesting (if not potentially a bit hard to rig).
Its really quite easy, Tie off the first bolt, then clove hitch the next two, keeping the rope tight. If you've got your soloing system down you should be able to do it no problem. Many aid routes don't start out as bolt ladders, but most aid routes have been soloed as well so there should be something there.
-
couple of bolts with hangers at the base of the climb a couple of feet off the ground
this usually only happens on aid routes. but if you do wind up doing it dont place a couple feet off the ground place a couple inches off the ground or under an over hang, just look for the most hidden spot. also look around for pin placements.
-
unitll someone figures out how to edit old post im going to just add onto the bottom
smith
Revelations/Irrevernece
3 Anchor bolts
W Mike Latyton 2/07
Revelations/Irrevernece
4 Lead bolts
W Ian Roth 3/07
menagerie
Rooster Rock - Original Route
1 Lead bolt
4/1/07
whoops! I double posted the above... oh well anyways I went up and rope soloed rooster rock yesterday. After talking to Jim A on the phone decided to replace the one old bolt on the original route thats just been there for ever. Now Rooster Rock one of Oregons original sport routes can easily be lead with no gear at about 5.6R only clipping the lookout bolts and the one new bolt. If you want to safely climb it bring 3 cams 1ea #1-#3.
-
This is the one near santiam pass. They did some major clear cutting down near the road, only really visable from the turkey monster/bridge area of the Menagerie.
-
Ah man the weather was beautiful the whole time and hardly any crowds either.
ahh you lucked out i was just down there and there where hoards of people everywhere, and the weather was shitty too!
-
Yeah all ASCA bolts for smith stuff are 1/2"
-
Trip: Menagerie - Rooster & Hen
Date: 3/29/2007
Trip Report:
Today I made a made a quick trip into the Menagerie. The temps where perfect, and the rock was almost all dry. Didn't have much time so all we did were the Rooster and the Hen. We probably spent more time approaching than climbing, but thats lower Menagerie this time of the year. Everything was dry except for the first 30ft on the Rooster, wich prompted a little more gear than normal. And now for the photo stoke...
sure looks closer from the parking lot!
coming up the rooster
summit of the rooster
hen slab - feels more like a 10a every time
hen summit with the rooster in the back ground showing the west face diheadral up high
south face of the hen and the egg, the highest concentration of solid high quality routes in the menagerie here
Gear Notes:
few cams and nuts
draws
Approach Notes:
long and uphill
-
and replaced with 3/8" now.
1/2"
-
Is leslie gulch an old tony yanior playground I thought I had read in an city fo rocks guide and they had this section in the back that had crags in the area and I think leslie gulch was included as a tony chip ground. But at this point my memory is a little foggy, anyone else have any info to validate or invalidate my claim.
i think your right, i remember reading/hearing that somewhere too. thanks for sparking my memory. i'm pretty sure thats what i was looking at then... so who wants to go back there for a few days with me??
-
freaking good tr
:tup: -
Anyone know anything about routes in leslie gulch? when i was there i only found a couple of old looking routes(star dryives and the likes, with mabey kim schmitzs hangers?), then one wall that looked like it might have been chipped... I assume its probably boise climbers in the know. whos got the beta, this place is by far cooler looking than smith and 10 times bigger. but no bolts!
-
heres a good one, pm me for more topos and or info
but if your just getting into aid, all routes on the monkey go clean & and town crier at index is a awsome route to get your aid down on.
the east face provides for some good sustained clean nutting, dont pop onto your belayer on the cruxy part of p2
-
After the recall debacle, I sent all 9 of my Aliens back for tensile testing at the end of January when I went on vacation (non-climbing). I got em all back a couple weeks ago with nice "tensile tested" stamps on the swages and little tags that said "tensile tested by Dave Wagonner". Given my painted on ID markings, and tags on the clip-in loops, none of them seemed to have been replaced (ie: failed the test). I am once more happy with them. I haven't used the offset TCUs yet, but Aliens still have a secure place on my rack.
I talked to Dave once before I mailed my cams in and he was terse but gave me the info I needed. The other guy I talked to when I called to check on the status of them after a month was very nice, found my cams, and moved them to the top of the to-do pile. I said I didn't need them back immediatly, but it seemed like they were willing to make an extra effort if I had a big trip coming up (since they'd already been there a month).
to praise them once again.... i sent mine in last april. some hybrids, and one green that had the "dimple". they sent them all back within 3 weeks(mabey less?) all fully replaced except for the lobes, this was nice since the green was thrashed. i love these suckers
and hope CCH stays alive. -
nice pics timmy, did you do the section that goes through "hole in the ground"?
-
well you answerd the easy way
Oregon coast bouldering?
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted · Edited by corvallisclimb
The book... Rock Climbing: Southwest Oregon: Rouge Edition
Is the only known(by me) recent publication that has some coastal climbing stuff in it. It does have a fair amount but I dont have it sitting right next to me so I can't tell you if any of the areas in it are near Cannon Beach. But there is tons of choss out there so I imagine you'll find something.
Linky