corvallisclimb
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Posts posted by corvallisclimb
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i was down there a couple weeks ago, perfect weather for a couple days. we had every crag and wall to our selves. then it snowed so we pulled our ropes and left. check the weather cam that always helps.
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Trip: Mt. Hood south side -
Date: 3/16/2007
Trip Report:
I and my friend Ryan went up the southside route of Hood. We got a late start and headed up to the summit at about 7am. Because we were both really affected by the altitude and were carrying about 40 pounds of gear apeice, it took us seven and a half hours to summit. We ditched most of our useless gear a few hundred feet before we reached the hogsback because we were both gasping for air. The climb was sheer misery. Every 50-200 feet we would have to stop and rest, and I felt like going to sleep for most of the climb.
Approach Notes:
Not enough air up there
jesus christ and you want to try liberty ridge. dont kill your self
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don't have time to build a crack machine...
I dont think you really need a crack machine or an urban crack to learn. You obviously know how to climb and place gear so just go get on it!
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Sounds like you guys must have worn him out.
I think they mabey got worn out putting up that wicked new FA over astrix pass
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heh - no worries on our end. those echo chambers have a way of amplifying your shouts to everyone except your belayer.
Ya a lot of the times Ill carry radios aid climbing to avoid that sort of crap. Part of the problem was he traversed all the way over to the anchor on the west face, so then once he untied and moved he was able to hear me better.
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Oh, and cheers to the huge "woohooo!" shoutfest that evening on the front side. It was hilarious. The hikers in front of us were freaking out at all the yelling in the canyon.
lol - ah...faces to names. all me and my partner could tell was that some dude named Ian wasn't getting the message to "FIX THE F***ING ROPE". I think all the hikers were getting it though. several times.
had us cracking up. nice work on the climb though btw.
Heh, Ian steped up to do his first real aid climb with me, and graciously offerd to lead the last bolt ladder pitch. Due to my poor communication I hadn't properly informed him on exactly what to do apoun reaching an aid belay. So a bit of yelling took place to try and relay the propper message. Some of the pitches on the monkey, last pitch of east face, 3rd pitch of west face often have poor communication. Sorry to all who heard me yell the f word! Props to Ian for stepping up and letting me use his alpine aiders and he used slings for the climb, when I forgot my regular aiders.
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Was that you when I yelled down how was first kiss or something like that?
Yup, that was us.
Well nice to meet you then! Sounds like cc.com had smith on lock down last weekend.
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is that afternoon delight shapp?
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Was that you when I yelled down how was first kiss or something like that? The east face is C2 more or less some people might say C2+ I dont know tho. There are couple of cruxy places, where I am in the picture I think is one of the harder parts I kept blowing nuts and aliens when I was testing em, but finally got a TCU to stick so I could make the move. Its pretty darn steep and eats little nuts. Great route if your solid on clean aid. Bring lots of nuts, and a large hook is nice. Last pitch has all old bolts but I plan on doing something about that soon, we did replace the anchor atop P2 a month ago.
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My name is Tyler, Porter is Olyclimber, and Ian was my partner on the east face that day he posts as 111. Where you down there when we where yelling a bunch?
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from that same day one the monkey... one of the partys took some pictures of me on p2 of the east face with a really nice camera.
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i will be in utah from the 22nd until sometime in early april and want to do a wall in zion or a fisher tower. anyone wanting to meet up there and do a wall that would be way cool!
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Dont remember the name of this crack but it was fun, right next to the barbeque the pope route.
nope! thats new testiment, the grade is right on tho. revelations 5.9 is to the left of that on the arete, wich i recently rebolted the finish and anchor.
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cragging
humor
oh well this might not be scenic but its my personal best
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Nice day out there on the monkey, we had a mellow cruise up the east face. Perfect weather on sunday. Was nice to talk to you guys out there.
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John- Thank you! I thought that was you up there yesterday, I was going to yell but didnt want to sound like a dumb ass. Let me know if you want to get on free lunch again sometime soon we could fix up those anchors.
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Smith:
New Testiment Slab
Revelations/Irreverence
Replaced 3 anchors bolts W Mike Layton Feb 07
Revelations/Irreverence
Replaced 4 protection bolts W Ian Roth Mar 07
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nice astrix pass variation. went and repeated it, 4 stars for sure
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sweet go to stars!!! fan girls are whack
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if weather.com is really right and its 71 with a 30% chance how could you not want to be there! mabey ill see you out there
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those guys where trying to chop it to make some big statment and in the end couldnt even climb the route with out the bolts.
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I've got 4 Hugh Banner Flexi cams for sale in quite good condition, never fallen on. These are acctually a pretty good cam and are quite light. They are more or less equal to .75, 1, 2, & 3 camalots. I'm asking 25 per cam.
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East Face anchors before:
East Face anchors after:
Note: All excess hardaware was properly removed, though not shown in the picture.
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will be headed down to the valley on saturday i think. looking for someone to hop in a chip on gas. i know its the wrong season but its worth a shot.
oregon choss stoke
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
rock seasons slowly getting back into swing... heres some secret choss/biggie wall out there, any one know the area?