corvallisclimb
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Posts posted by corvallisclimb
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I just watched Jamin's youtube where he threw rocks and killed a rattlesnake for no reason.
That shit is twisted. You are a fucking looser Jamin.
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Wolf Rock
Coligula
1 Anchor bolt
W Jim Anglin Jun 07
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Heres an edited virsion for you Jim... Nice work, you where the man up there! Kip, thank you so much for bringing the tuna and mayo, made it all the more memorable I owe you!
Trip: Wolf Rock - Barad Dur
Date: 6/27/2007
Trip Report:
My 10th time up this amazing route was perhaps my most enjoyable...that was after the slugfest with the crux was over.
Tyler called and wanted to get some climbing in before his wildland fire season kicks in so we met at wolf rock to scare ourselves a bit. we met around noon on Monday and decided to warm up a bit and do the classic Caligula III 5.7 well we did something and were probably even on route for awhile but one lichen and moss covered face is much like another and and we eventually summited...the wildflowers were peaked
Beer and dinner was followed by a a couple pitches at the sport arch with young Kip who came by to visit.
The next morning our early start turned to 9 ish but soon enough we're on our way up the imposing dark tower. Barad dur is mellowing a bit with age and those dowels you used to have to put rivet hangers on are slowly turninig into fatties but folks let me tell you this route is serious fun and there are many DFU sections. Tyler is kind enough to let the old man lead today and He enjoys his 1st time up this great route from the seconds perspective, this proves efficent and I really like the leading in blocks concept. We steadily move up toward the roofs
until were ready to start the real biz on the 10d 5th pitch
Tyler does a masterfull job of juggin the two crux pithces and I find a spot to chill and relax while scoping out the crux.
It's a thrash as usual but I do get up without falling or weighting the rope, i find this especailly hard since there is now a fatty at the crux instead of the old knifeblade...well actually the blade is still there but guess what I clip?
I hem and hah above the crux until waiting anymore is not an option and pull the hard traverse moves, sink a bomber nut and move off around the corner...I pull up all th slack and tie off the rope for Tyler to jug wondering how he'll ever be able to remove my nut while jumaring....well he can't and lowers off of it but after jugging up a bit flips the loop of rope on the nut now 20 feet away and it flips right out, I hear his whoop but just thought he had another air ride. we scramle the couple hundred feet to the top and enjoy our summit with the tuna and crackers that Kip had kindly packed up for us.
Very nice trip up a route I'll never be bored with.I've never done a trip report with photos before so hope for the best!
Gear Notes:
small rack to #3 camalot many long slings especially if you want to link 1&2
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if i remember right one bolt looked good the other old/questionable. I hope i would have set up a equalized/ non-shock loading anchor but yea i wanted to get down so i could have messed up. i thought the nut was good did you think otherwise?
The right one was the bad one(one of the worst I've seen due to where it was placed) the left one was alright. The nut was fully bomber for downward pull but a possible outward pull could have affected it. Doesn't really matter at all, staying safe up there is what its all about. Its hard to treat it like a cragging area up there, you get hurt, your going to be up there for a long time untill you get some help.
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when i did the first pitch of that route last summer. I was attacked by red ants. I was getting bit about every second so called it good and rapped off of two bolts and a nut. do you think the ants will be gone with the moss? Anyone find the nut i left?
I own your nut now, where do you get your Polish gear or what ever it is? Also why leave the nut there it created a really akward pull on the anchor had it have blow you would have shock loaded those two bolts I imagine you where scared of. Jim and I where fully attacked by red ants while cleaning the climb, I know I slayed at lead 100... But they are still there we didnt kill any nests.
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Great story Jim! Note that you rate it 5.9 in your guide, and Dodge gives it a solid 5.7!!This slab now sports 3 bolts and is a solid 10a. -
great pics, nice work on the send!
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bump
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depending on how far you want to drive there is pleantiful camping/national forest land out east on HW126. other than that there are some nice bridges i know a lot of other people camp out at in euegene.
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[rawk][rawk] nice, LAD looks awsome!!! now that really makes me want to drive down on hop on the capitan...
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FYI Steve House did not put up a route on the Matterhorn.
He did put a route up on Benthos Buttress, I belive it was Dave Jensen? who put up an A3 and A4 route up the Matterhorn.
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Once that gate opens things are a whole lot mellower...
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Bump
Where is this?
Australia somewhere I think...
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Jim sorry, next time I'll try picking up your telepathic messages! Post up some of your pictures if you've got em.
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Trip: Menagerie - Rooster Rock - Callis SE Face
Date: 5/25/2007
Trip Report:
Jim Anglin and I spent the past few days fully rebolting and cleaning a classic route up Rooster rock in the Menagerie. This old school route put up in 1959 by Pat Callis and Gerry Honey had grown very green over the past few years and was full of time bomb bolts. We replaced 6 lead bolts on P1 as well as 2 bolts at the anchor, and another 2 bolts on P2 and that anchor as well. We replaced every bolt on route except for the first bolt wich has bomber #3 cam placement right next to it. I did most of the bolting and Jim did most of the scrubbing, and unearthing of P1. We started from the ground and drilled by hand, keeping to the ethics of the place, 8 bolts later my wrist was pretty sore. P3 could use a litte more scrubbing but besides that the route is now in great shape! Another super classic old school 5.7 to be had. So get up there and climb it and keep it clean!
Jim gardening his way up P1
Scrubbing on P1
Old bolts
Tuning fork
Enjoying the finally clean P1
Bolting on P2
Jim on his route The Beak 5.11a
Gear Notes:
the works
Approach Notes:
long and uphill
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Menagerie
Rooster Rock
Callis SE face
4 anchor bolts
8 lead bolts (6 on P1, 2 on P2)
W Jim Anglin May 07
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How about the rap anchor at the very end of the Marsupial traverse? Those things are pretty sketchy.
I agree....if I had time I would do it myself.
I agree the past few times I've been out there I havent brought the drill.
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Nice TR. Is that a speaker in the third photo? Good style.
For sure we where
out! Mabey we brought to much for a shorter wall... music, stove, warm food, red wine, beer, tequilla... but it was fun! -
The BLM district maps always are a good way to start. Then if not contacting the county should work. If you have any issues shoot me a PM I've dealt with this a few times recently... mabey its the same chunk!
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on the 5.8 crack on rope de dope?
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Nice job Tyler, see your wearing your "climbing pants". Do you have a couple pair or do you just live in those things. LOL
JL
I'm trying to get sponsored by Adidas for climbing!
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Trip: Yosemite - Washington Column - Ten Days After
Date: 5/9/2007
Trip Report:
My friend Darrell called me saying he had a 4 day weekend and wanted to climb a wall. We had been talking about doing one together for a while and now the time was finally here. With a short amount of time we would have to choose something shorter. We opted for Ten Days After on Washington Column. Rated V 5.8 A3/C3+F in the supertopo we where not sure what to expect. The rack required quite a few pins and heads. So after finally leaving Oregon late Friday we arrived in the Valley Saturday morning. We hung in the meadow for a while rested and racked up, then made our way to the Awhanee. We got the the base after a while, the loads where heavy as we had stuff for 3 nights. We decided to start on the first 2 pitches of the prow to avoid wet grassy clibming on the original TDA pitches. Darrell took the odd pitches (free cruxes) and I took the even pitches (aid cruxes) so Darrell fixed the first pitch that evening and we slept at the base. We woke up pretty late and got a slow start, but soon the pigs where off the ground and we where on route. I soon was leading P2 of the Prow supposedly there where 2 rivets that escaped right from the Prow belay to the TDA belay. I clip the belay and look around then I look 20 feet blow me and spy the rivets, so I wind up lowering and penjing to the TDA belay. Darrell made quick time of the first pitch on TDA. Soon I was off on what I thougt would be on of the cruxes. I managed the pitch clean wich really boosted my confidence. Sime dicey cam hooks and top stepping where key too this. Some guys over on Astro Man took some pictures of us on that pitch wich I hope to get soon. Pitches 3 through 5 on TDA follow a steep, overhanging diheadral, looks beautiful from the ground. Then Darrell again made quick time on an easy C2 pitch and where at the spot where the route traverses left back onto the main face. We set up the ledge here wich was kind crappy in the overhaning diheadral, but after some booze and medicine, we where both asleep. Next morning I got to start it off with the A3 traverse. This pitch was mostly fixed with heads but there where some hook and cam moves. The next pitch was the only pitch where anything really happend while on route. Some thin gear off the belay leads to a bolt then a fixed KB in a roof. Darrel clipped the fixed blade but soon enough PING! "falling!" luckly I managed a good catch and he didnt fall very far, I was the only one who got hurt having my hand slammed between the grigri and the wall. Darrell yarded back up and lightly tapped a cam hook into where the fixed blade had been, another cam hook and he was on another rivet. Those taps to the cam hook would be the only time the hammer was used on route. After this one more pitch of TDA before it joins the Prow for the final pitches. This pitch had expando marked all over it in the super topo, so I was kinda nervous. I didn't find it to be bad at all, and soon we where back on the prow. Darrell lead one more short pitch and we where on tapir terrace a nice break from super haning belays. We fixed another pitch and then set up the ledge a little sooner than the night before, so we got a little drunker and quickly fell asleep. We got an early start the next morning and made quick time of the last 3 pitches of the Prow and we topped out by 12:00 we lounged on the summit for a while stuffed our selves full of extra food then packed up to get ready for the North Dome Gully descent, wich really sucks with heavy pigs. Back to the car 4 hours later and soon where where in the Ahwahnee eating smoked salmon and havinh ice cold beers. Another allnighter in the car and Darrell was able to make it to work in time. All in all a fun route, that was cool the try and do clean.
Now here are a couple pictures:
Darrell on P3 
Me on P4
Darrell in the morning atop P5
Darrell on P9
Welcome home atop P9not many great pictures but thats wall climbing.
Gear Notes:
wall rack
Approach Notes:
easy
Big Wall
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
woah i solo with that one... bad idea? and kevbone a big wall is a big wall!