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corvallisclimb

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Posts posted by corvallisclimb

    Oregon Bolt Replacement

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    Menagerie

     

    Rooster Rock

    2 Anchor bolts on the summit.

     

    PS and if any one knows who added the nice 1/2" bolts to the summit of rooster rock most likley with a power drill. Let me know so I can cut their nuts off. Tell em they can have their hangers back.

    Oregon Bolt Replacement

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    With the help of Ryan Lawson, Thomas Emde, Mike Stoger and I, I think we replaced over 120 different bolts at Smith Rock over the past week. To name a few, Caffine Free, A Phone Call From Satan, Ship Wreck, everything over on the Pheonix Wall, Five Easy Peices, Lichen It, Sunshine Dihederal where all worked on or fully replaced. Our goal was to hit the high use areas where theres lots of wear and tear. Thanks everyone for all your help and donations to ASCA(safeclimbing.org)

    Tell me this isn't true - Jim Anglin

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Over the past few years I became good friends with Jim. Acctually I joined cc to pm him for information on the Menagerie. I always had so many qeustions for him about his routes and such. So eventually we met up to climb in the Menagerie. We instantly got along with our passion for aid climbing, the Menagerie, bolt replacement and other passtimes. After that Jim was a frequent climbing partner of mine, out in the Menagerie and at Smith as well as other areas. I went down to Yosemite this winter for my 21st birthday with Jim, we spent the day free climbing in the sun then went to hang out in the alcove on El Cap. Where Jim pulled out a bottle of schnapps and handed it to me with a "happy birthday". Now I hadn't really thought of going to a bar or anything but Jim made sure I got that birthday buzz. We sat there till the sun went down just telling stories from young vs old, Jims stories where always the best. Now we didnt get up any walls that trip because of snow, but it was an extremely memorable one in my book. Now this past Friday Jim called to let me know he was going to be out at Smith, I tryed to get him to come to the Menagerie, but he had already had plans with his wife to head down that driection. As always he was excited to climb but also was excited because he was about to take a little bit of time off climbing to enjoy some of the other aspects of life. Jim wished me luck and was already looking forward to hearing about what we climbed. That was the last I heard. I spent the rest of the weekend in the Menagerie until monday evening coming up with all sorts of new questions for Jim. When I arrived back to Washington where I'm living now, I finally plugged in my phone to check for messages. The first message was from a friend desribing the situation, I knew he was mistaken. The when the next message was from JR I knew it was true. Jim was a true inspirtation. For anyone whos repeated any of his routes at Smith or in the Menagerie, you know how competent of a climber he was. Jim was a mentor to me, I learned so much from him, and continued to do so. But most importantly he was a friend. And thats what I'll remeber.

     

    Jim- I will miss you tons my friend. Till the next time I can ask you a question about some climb. As you would always say to me go tear it up!

     

    -Tyler

     

    P.S. You can be sure that your ledge will make it up Skull Queen this next time!

     

    playing_oppossumsmall.jpg

    Jim on the 2nd ascent of his own route "Playing Opossum"

     

    callis_se_face_029_small.jpg

    in his element in the Menagerie

     

    Picture_004.jpg

    scoping his own route "Bubbas in Bondage" on the PLW

     

    IMG_0421.jpg

    on a speedy ascent of the east face

     

    Revision three of the Portland rock guide.

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    no, I-rock is not mentioned at all in the new Olson guide.

    It covers Broughton, Rocky, Carver, Beacon, and French's.

    It includes some slightly better topos, and a lot more pictures. But it doesn't include the section in the back on the more obscure/adventure areas, or the gorge ice.

    Also, it does not list the FA information anymore either

     

    sounds like a step down to me, that old adventure section was really cool, same with having the ice in there... wtfs up with this new breed of shitty oregon books now :(

    [TR] Turkey Monster - Dod Route 8/25/2007

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    Jeff Thomas was the first to free the turkey in 70's by a variation to the Dod Route. Tom Blust freed the original finish shortly after. South West (Bauman bros 1968) was free climbed by Tom Blust and Kent Bennesch by a short variation. The unrepeated route is Wild Turkey 5.8 A4 Tom & Bob Bauman that starts just to the left of the regular route.

    menagerie trail work

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    i figured id cross post this because of the trail work part of things.

     

    looking for someone or a couple of people to spend a couple days next week climbing and doing some trail work in the menagerie. advanced rock skills are a must as this is mostly adventure style climbing. pm me if intrested

     

    -Tyler

     

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