corvallisclimb
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Posts posted by corvallisclimb
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Damnit, Steins should never be considerd a sport climbing destination. This is a sacred Ochoco Indian site, leave the power drills at home.
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im desprate for a partner for the menagerie, my secret playgrounds or something in the cascades closer to HW20 next week... whos in? im talking mid week
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anybody ever seen a carabiner break? seems like if it's not loaded across the gate or bent over an edge this would be pretty rare.
I've broken a few funking out pitons, but this is mabey 1 every year doing so, so pretty excessive use as a funk biner. Usually the metal starts to deform before it breaks.
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woah i solo with that one... bad idea? and kevbone a big wall is a big wall!
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I just watched Jamin's youtube where he threw rocks and killed a rattlesnake for no reason.
That shit is twisted. You are a fucking looser Jamin.
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Wolf Rock
Coligula
1 Anchor bolt
W Jim Anglin Jun 07
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Heres an edited virsion for you Jim... Nice work, you where the man up there! Kip, thank you so much for bringing the tuna and mayo, made it all the more memorable I owe you!
Trip: Wolf Rock - Barad Dur
Date: 6/27/2007
Trip Report:
My 10th time up this amazing route was perhaps my most enjoyable...that was after the slugfest with the crux was over.
Tyler called and wanted to get some climbing in before his wildland fire season kicks in so we met at wolf rock to scare ourselves a bit. we met around noon on Monday and decided to warm up a bit and do the classic Caligula III 5.7 well we did something and were probably even on route for awhile but one lichen and moss covered face is much like another and and we eventually summited...the wildflowers were peaked
Beer and dinner was followed by a a couple pitches at the sport arch with young Kip who came by to visit.
The next morning our early start turned to 9 ish but soon enough we're on our way up the imposing dark tower. Barad dur is mellowing a bit with age and those dowels you used to have to put rivet hangers on are slowly turninig into fatties but folks let me tell you this route is serious fun and there are many DFU sections. Tyler is kind enough to let the old man lead today and He enjoys his 1st time up this great route from the seconds perspective, this proves efficent and I really like the leading in blocks concept. We steadily move up toward the roofs
until were ready to start the real biz on the 10d 5th pitch
Tyler does a masterfull job of juggin the two crux pithces and I find a spot to chill and relax while scoping out the crux.
It's a thrash as usual but I do get up without falling or weighting the rope, i find this especailly hard since there is now a fatty at the crux instead of the old knifeblade...well actually the blade is still there but guess what I clip?
I hem and hah above the crux until waiting anymore is not an option and pull the hard traverse moves, sink a bomber nut and move off around the corner...I pull up all th slack and tie off the rope for Tyler to jug wondering how he'll ever be able to remove my nut while jumaring....well he can't and lowers off of it but after jugging up a bit flips the loop of rope on the nut now 20 feet away and it flips right out, I hear his whoop but just thought he had another air ride. we scramle the couple hundred feet to the top and enjoy our summit with the tuna and crackers that Kip had kindly packed up for us.
Very nice trip up a route I'll never be bored with.I've never done a trip report with photos before so hope for the best!
Gear Notes:
small rack to #3 camalot many long slings especially if you want to link 1&2
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if i remember right one bolt looked good the other old/questionable. I hope i would have set up a equalized/ non-shock loading anchor but yea i wanted to get down so i could have messed up. i thought the nut was good did you think otherwise?
The right one was the bad one(one of the worst I've seen due to where it was placed) the left one was alright. The nut was fully bomber for downward pull but a possible outward pull could have affected it. Doesn't really matter at all, staying safe up there is what its all about. Its hard to treat it like a cragging area up there, you get hurt, your going to be up there for a long time untill you get some help.
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when i did the first pitch of that route last summer. I was attacked by red ants. I was getting bit about every second so called it good and rapped off of two bolts and a nut. do you think the ants will be gone with the moss? Anyone find the nut i left?
I own your nut now, where do you get your Polish gear or what ever it is? Also why leave the nut there it created a really akward pull on the anchor had it have blow you would have shock loaded those two bolts I imagine you where scared of. Jim and I where fully attacked by red ants while cleaning the climb, I know I slayed at lead 100... But they are still there we didnt kill any nests.
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Great story Jim! Note that you rate it 5.9 in your guide, and Dodge gives it a solid 5.7!!This slab now sports 3 bolts and is a solid 10a. -
great pics, nice work on the send!
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depending on how far you want to drive there is pleantiful camping/national forest land out east on HW126. other than that there are some nice bridges i know a lot of other people camp out at in euegene.
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[rawk][rawk] nice, LAD looks awsome!!! now that really makes me want to drive down on hop on the capitan...
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FYI Steve House did not put up a route on the Matterhorn.
He did put a route up on Benthos Buttress, I belive it was Dave Jensen? who put up an A3 and A4 route up the Matterhorn.
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Once that gate opens things are a whole lot mellower...
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Bump
Where is this?
Australia somewhere I think...
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Jim sorry, next time I'll try picking up your telepathic messages! Post up some of your pictures if you've got em.
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Trip: Menagerie - Rooster Rock - Callis SE Face
Date: 5/25/2007
Trip Report:
Jim Anglin and I spent the past few days fully rebolting and cleaning a classic route up Rooster rock in the Menagerie. This old school route put up in 1959 by Pat Callis and Gerry Honey had grown very green over the past few years and was full of time bomb bolts. We replaced 6 lead bolts on P1 as well as 2 bolts at the anchor, and another 2 bolts on P2 and that anchor as well. We replaced every bolt on route except for the first bolt wich has bomber #3 cam placement right next to it. I did most of the bolting and Jim did most of the scrubbing, and unearthing of P1. We started from the ground and drilled by hand, keeping to the ethics of the place, 8 bolts later my wrist was pretty sore. P3 could use a litte more scrubbing but besides that the route is now in great shape! Another super classic old school 5.7 to be had. So get up there and climb it and keep it clean!
Jim gardening his way up P1
Scrubbing on P1
Old bolts
Tuning fork
Enjoying the finally clean P1
Bolting on P2
Jim on his route The Beak 5.11a
Gear Notes:
the works
Approach Notes:
long and uphill
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Menagerie
Rooster Rock
Callis SE face
4 anchor bolts
8 lead bolts (6 on P1, 2 on P2)
W Jim Anglin May 07
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How about the rap anchor at the very end of the Marsupial traverse? Those things are pretty sketchy.
I agree....if I had time I would do it myself.
I agree the past few times I've been out there I havent brought the drill.
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Nice TR. Is that a speaker in the third photo? Good style.
For sure we where
out! Mabey we brought to much for a shorter wall... music, stove, warm food, red wine, beer, tequilla... but it was fun! -
The BLM district maps always are a good way to start. Then if not contacting the county should work. If you have any issues shoot me a PM I've dealt with this a few times recently... mabey its the same chunk!
name that route
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
okay mark heres a smith off the path route