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corvallisclimb

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Posts posted by corvallisclimb

  1. All nuts, C3+, but easier now with newer gear, I still think it's C3. I have not climbed it using cam hooks or HB brass nuts though, but the west face seems to drop a full grade using them... so maybe Tylers C2 call is accurate.

     

     

    Bill brings up a great point. Aid ratings are so subjective... I did some stuff in the Valley rated C3+ and found it to be way way mellower than some of the clean aid I've done at Smith rated around C3. Like the original first pitch of the PLW I had heard went clean at C3 or some bull shit like that... There I was 60 feet off the deck with nothing but a bunch of crap micro nuts so I nailed a beak and a LA. Shame shame I know... but if there really is such a thing as C3 I think it deserves an A2 rating along with it. I never once have felt the need to nail on the east face, nor had anything to nail. So mabey its just head games but to me real deal A3/C3 gets me scared to the point where I love welding pins, anything I feel I wasn't scared on is A2/C2 or below... Thanks for letting me rant about aid climbing :)

  2. hemp named the drillen one, no need to combine them as they are now independent lines. i added a bolt and anchor to the right to revelations, it now has its own finish and people wont set up 3 trs off the same anchor.

     

    piss fog and rain in the background of that last one

  3. ha damn i thought this one would be more obvious...

     

    is it the route you added a bolt to, so they don't share the last bolt anymore? ( forgot name )

     

    is this game really over?

     

    yeah you got that part right... keep this alive i know ive got a few more, though this is making me wish i climbed with a camera a lot more.

  4. anybody ever seen a carabiner break? seems like if it's not loaded across the gate or bent over an edge this would be pretty rare.

     

    I've broken a few funking out pitons, but this is mabey 1 every year doing so, so pretty excessive use as a funk biner. Usually the metal starts to deform before it breaks.

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