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corvallisclimb

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Posts posted by corvallisclimb

    Kyle and Justin

    in Columbia River Gorge

    Posted

    Enjoy your secret moss fest. I'll drive 2.5 hours to Smith and climb and solidified mud/rock instead of spending days cleaning mud off the rock.

     

    it doesn't suprise me at all that a terrebonnian would need 2.5 hours to make it to smiff :)

     

    Actually I live in Hood River. But I agree that most tear a bone againians would probably take 2.5 hours to make it to Smith. They have to call their parole officer and make sure it is ok, drop off their wife/cousin at high school, and hit up the local meth house and then tweek their way down the trail.

     

    Ryan wins! :lmao: :lmao:

    Rocky Butte: Bring protection

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    A gri gri is the worst for top rop soloing. It is not ment to self feed so i dont know why anyone would use it? A basic ascender rigged with a chest harness and the occasionall back up knot is the way to go. Add a little weight on the bottom end of the rope and your climbing.

     

    I agree! For the last couple of years I've been using a Mini Traxion by Petzel. I'll tie the middle of the rope into the anchor and use a gri-gri to descend the free stand. For the end the mini is rigged to I tie my pack off at the end (with stuff in it) as a counter weight.

     

     

    Mini Traxions are prerfect too. I just said a basic since it is acctully intended for ascending a rope where minis are intended for hauling. Either way both work great. I definatly do NOT reccomend a grigri. Unless its 5.6 with tons of no hands stances.

     

    More info at http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1123050/toprope_solo_setup

    Rocky Butte: Bring protection

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    I was climbing (solo TR) at Silver bullet

     

    OK that is new to me. Please tell me how you rig up a solo Top Rope? Do you do that with a figure 8 to provide the friction in case of fall? Photo?

    Usually it is done with Gri-Gri

     

    A gri gri is the worst for top rop soloing. It is not ment to self feed so i dont know why anyone would use it? A basic ascender rigged with a chest harness and the occasionall back up knot is the way to go. Add a little weight on the bottom end of the rope and your climbing.

    The First Grade VI Climb in the NW Was...

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Kim Schmitz is man, man! And a big ugly looking one at that. He might kick your ass for calling him a girl.

     

     

    Woops! Sorry Kim...

     

    I still think it's a cool bit of trivia.

     

     

     

    Naw, Kim ain't ugly. Although his ankles are. :) He's a fairly humble man, especially with all he's been through. Lots of stories--he was at the fore of US climbing here and abroad for many years. He'd likely tell you some of those stories himself: hire him as a guide through Exum next time you're doing the Grand or anything in the Tetons. Yeah, I know, many of you don't need a guide, but to spend a day or two with Kim would be well worth it.

    :brew:

     

    Kim Schmitz is a bad ass.

     

    FA of East Face of Monkey Face with Gerlad Bjorkman 1964 (hey it was once a hard nail-up)

    FA of Picnic Lunch Wall with Tom Bauman in 1969 (far fewer bolts, dropped his sleeping bag)

    FA of Aquarian Wall with Jim Bridwell in 1971

    FA of Zenith with Bridwell in 1978

     

    to name a few... damn!

    Dean Fry

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted · Edited by corvallisclimb

    Wayne, that blog would be by Mr. BillAmos him self, my partner in crime.

     

    CL_Concerto_2.jpg

    woot finally a solid pin! Thanks to Kira for taking this picture while on Birds in a Rut.

    Gorge Area LiDAR Data Wanted

    in Columbia River Gorge

    Posted

    My GF processes LiDAR data for a certain company wich she said is in the process of doing the Columbia. She sais it would probably be hard to find the data for free if its all even out there, that shits expensive. I dunno though. What are you trying to do with it?

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