corvallisclimb
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Posts posted by corvallisclimb
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Heh Wayne I'm just bitter my first attempt and Bills second at the Black Spider a couple days prior to your sucess, was thwarted due too wind, or lack of sack to climb in the wind?
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fawk well now this is the mt hood fourm formerly the oregon fourm.... anyone?
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A gri gri is the worst for top rop soloing. It is not ment to self feed so i dont know why anyone would use it? A basic ascender rigged with a chest harness and the occasionall back up knot is the way to go. Add a little weight on the bottom end of the rope and your climbing.
I agree! For the last couple of years I've been using a Mini Traxion by Petzel. I'll tie the middle of the rope into the anchor and use a gri-gri to descend the free stand. For the end the mini is rigged to I tie my pack off at the end (with stuff in it) as a counter weight.
Mini Traxions are prerfect too. I just said a basic since it is acctully intended for ascending a rope where minis are intended for hauling. Either way both work great. I definatly do NOT reccomend a grigri. Unless its 5.6 with tons of no hands stances.
More info at http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1123050/toprope_solo_setup
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Usually it is done with Gri-GriI was climbing (solo TR) at Silver bulletOK that is new to me. Please tell me how you rig up a solo Top Rope? Do you do that with a figure 8 to provide the friction in case of fall? Photo?
A gri gri is the worst for top rop soloing. It is not ment to self feed so i dont know why anyone would use it? A basic ascender rigged with a chest harness and the occasionall back up knot is the way to go. Add a little weight on the bottom end of the rope and your climbing.
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NAME THAT ROUTE IN OREGON :lmao:
Looks like fun, I know where... but the route name escapes me
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shameless bumps for because its rock season already!
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excepting if its a hood s side tr, in which case it gets none
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this was fun
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Bump cuz this shits funny and mt hood is not!
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Wow thanks guys! Bump to get hood outta the way!
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Bump cuz Mt Hood is FAHKING GEYH! Do people really give a shit about the 1,256,303 ascent of da South Side?
Anyways nice one Justin, did you guys climb it?
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don't forget a kite
dood! I have added a kite to my kit recently, definatly a fun toy for long aid belays.
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Kim Schmitz is man, man! And a big ugly looking one at that. He might kick your ass for calling him a girl.
Woops! Sorry Kim...
I still think it's a cool bit of trivia.
Naw, Kim ain't ugly. Although his ankles are. He's a fairly humble man, especially with all he's been through. Lots of stories--he was at the fore of US climbing here and abroad for many years. He'd likely tell you some of those stories himself: hire him as a guide through Exum next time you're doing the Grand or anything in the Tetons. Yeah, I know, many of you don't need a guide, but to spend a day or two with Kim would be well worth it.
Kim Schmitz is a bad ass.
FA of East Face of Monkey Face with Gerlad Bjorkman 1964 (hey it was once a hard nail-up)
FA of Picnic Lunch Wall with Tom Bauman in 1969 (far fewer bolts, dropped his sleeping bag)
FA of Aquarian Wall with Jim Bridwell in 1971
FA of Zenith with Bridwell in 1978
to name a few... damn!
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the fa of Liberty Crack took three days that would have made it a grade 6 then
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well no ones said liberty crack or any of that stuff on lib bell have they?
it all V
but not when the FA occured Lib Crack had to be a grade 6 in 66 or when ever right?
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well no ones said liberty crack or any of that stuff on lib bell have they?
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Wayne, that blog would be by Mr. BillAmos him self, my partner in crime.
woot finally a solid pin! Thanks to Kira for taking this picture while on Birds in a Rut.
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A4 pitch on CL Concerto, 38 years later.
last pitch on CL Concerto, A2.
Damn Dean was a bad ass!
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Smith Rock
The Wombat - CL Concerto
4 Anchor Bolts
1 Lead Bolt
W/ Bill Amos 2/2010
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Bump for Dean! No ones got a story from a Dean Fry route. He did some stuff at Beacon too!
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What sizes of Mastercam offset would someone recommend for the Nose?
Usually the purple/blue is the one having the most fun.
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My GF processes LiDAR data for a certain company wich she said is in the process of doing the Columbia. She sais it would probably be hard to find the data for free if its all even out there, that shits expensive. I dunno though. What are you trying to do with it?
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Those slings have at lease two or three more seasons left in them. Say 2 bucks a sling?
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Kyle and Justin
in Columbia River Gorge
Posted
Ryan wins! :lmao: