corvallisclimb
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Posts posted by corvallisclimb
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seriously.
the chick on the right looks kinda like she gotta crap though.
what are you afraid of???
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Yeah they are! Cue pics of various beaks: opps....
Bill, why the hell didn't I get an x-mas card!!!!
:lmao: 
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Cool. SA ?
If memory serves Jim told me that Tom Blust repeated it but that wouldnt make much sense as he was on the FA. I wish I had written down everything he told me because there was a lot I lost with him. I'm 99 percent sure Jim told me it was repeated, I'll ask Watts and see if he might know.
Either way it was hard and Jim was a fucking bad ass. The first pitch being extremely steep (I'd say 40' instead of Ryan's 30') and sustaind was never too dangerous. The first 30' are 50 degrees overhanging, steep, thin and technica (and yes 27 beaks, 5 bolts, 3 hooks, 2 angles, 1 LA, 1 nut) but the seam slowly widens the higher you get. The second pitch (on Jim's route) started the same as the rest though 80 degree slab but after 50' of beaks you had to free climb... not that hard but rotten and run out. He did get another beak in above two cam placements but shit gnarly as all hell. Cleaning I got to the very last beak and was faced with a 50' traverse to easier ground. Fuck that shit I lowered off a crappy ass #2 beak, well Ryan placed one of my tomahawk's but no way in hell was I going to leave one of those! So I banged in some shit lowerd off and it was over... well as far as Smith descents go from the hobbit hole requires a bunch of shit a couple of raps exposed scrambles and just all around crap. Oh well thanks Ryan for getting back out, a lot more of this to come but nothign as steep. This IS the steepest route at Smith.
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a couple of pics to come... oh ya and some tomahawk placements those things from moses and b law are the shit.
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Is the shunt a significant improvement over using an autoblock/prussic off your leg loop? The autoblock has the advantage of being super cheaper and lighter.
we used shunts all the time when working on cellpone towers but id be hard to find any solid use for them in any aspect of rock climbing other than rescue or hardcore rigging
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talked to Tom about it he said its a death route... my guess the hardest route in oregon. ive looked over at it from braddur many times... if your seriously interested send me a pm i've though long and hard about this route
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nice dood i was out there musta missed you. birds in a rut is a classic to bad you didnt get to the diheadral pitch.
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Nice Radek! you should format your TRs so they show up here as well!
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or do this
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i've soloed loads of crap witha gri gri and know tons of people who have done way more.... if your doing aid moves and just stepping up in your ladders its way easy to feed the slack as you stand up because you only need one hand to pull you up and one hand to slack the gri gri... pretty simple. i usually just keep one backup knot tied in the rope no more than 20ft below me so it doesnt snag on shit. i never carry the extra rope with me unless it is some crazy free clibming pitch i know it would get hung up in otherwise just keep in in a rope bag at the belay. you can use rubberbands mid pitch on long pitches to take weight off the rope knowing the rubber band will break if you fall... or clove hitch a bomber bolt or rivet. for free climbing just pull out enough slack so you can get to the next stance where you can pull out more slack wich often times can be 20+ feet. yes this is dangerous but thats soloing. try not to fall. your prolly more prone to fall fucking around with the grigri from a shitty stance trying to pull slack. i try and keep it simple my grigri on a triangular steel quick link to prevent cross loading. one back up knot tied in the rope only clipped to my harness on hard aid. if you really want to free climb a lot mabey invest in a silent partner but other wise grigris are fine. my friend soloed zodiac in 12 hours with a grigri. again keep it simple, dont think about it too much or soloing will become a pain in the ass. also dont fall unless you really have to, most people dont fall soling, charlie porter soloed tons of walls and never fell soloing, his system was using 2 prussiks and grabbing the rope with his teeth to feed slack. or charles cole who used a stich plate and a grigri in some death system where falling could rip the sheath. it could be worse.
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I was thinking of the rabbit ears when I saw that picture....
but I did hike into the base of the twin pictures years back.
There was a bolt like that was missing hangers that looked like it could be fun.
Never heard of "F7"
ya on the think the south face there is a bolt like 15ft up missing a hanger i dont think there are any more... F7 was before the yos decimal system F = free F10 being the limit. the only spot where twin pillars are written up are in the dodge guide wich uses the original rating system. so ill stick with the original rating
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wassup???? i know there are like 20+ more people who could contribute to this thread.
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try supertopo.com thats where all the cali bros are
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The Main Pillar at the Twin Pillars is a damn hard summit. I belive we climbed "The Campfire Route" F7 A3... It was kinda loose, sorta scary, but well worth it. I don't know anyone else that has climbed the Pillars. My guess is its been under 5 ascents. There was no trace of any rappel slings on the summit. Just one original bolt. Thanks Bryan for ripping it up out there with me!
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Nice! Well hi there Mr. Yost. You where also on the FA of Orgasmagoria. Cheers!
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Aren't all the new routes pretty much common knowledge already? What is everyone expecting to discover?
Well, what do you know. One of the "new" routes is named after me. What a nice surprise!
Happy New Year
Well, whats the route?
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bump for mikes book! got my copy for x mas and was even surprised to find a picture of mine in it, sweet mike way to go!!!!
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Bill, thats great! Is it the Witch?
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the routes by grade section seems to be absent from my copy...
that had to be cut no more than 500 pages
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pete- get me a hot tub in there and ill start climbing on hood again a bar would help too
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The Thumb on the Wombat at Smith is probably one of the most obscure summits out there. Either climb Santiam Highway Ledges (5.10a) or Cat Fight Cracks (5.10a X) or make a long involved ridge scramble from the summit of the Wombat. To quote Watt's "Only the most obsessive peak baggers with bother with this silly spire".
The Thumb (5.7), Smith Rock
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Ya Brad did the FA I don't know anyone else thats repeated it. He could have done it more than once. So I figured solo was the best way to repeat it for my 23rd birthday.
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Here's a shot from the Christian Brothers Traverse where you can tag four or five summits in one route. There really is'nt much loose rock on it and if your carefull you wont knock any off. I soloed the reverse traverse, and didnt even knock anything off with ropes all over and what not. The regular way is 5.7 and the reverse is 5.7 A1, I belive the reverse has had only two ascents both solo. So theres no excuse to not get on the traverse.
With highly varied climbing, great position and all the summits, why not?
Summit of the Monk, Christian Brothers Traverse, Smith Rock
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Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too....
The "unclimbed" list is getting smaller - slowly but surely......
Hello there Mr. Cramer! Your contributions to the Sky Valley climbing sceene are awsome! I don't belive we've ever met, but I was the one that did the FA of "Shitty Park" on the Rattle Tale Wall thanks to Jake.
[TR] Smith Rock - Air To Spare w/variation start 5.7 A3 X 1/21/2010
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
Hey Ian babe! You know I mean no harm... Ryan got really sick so we got delayed a week wich included MLK weekend. I think more about that rope on Soft Shoe Ballet than any one so trust me its nothing I'm proud of but the "Jim Anglin Memorial Route" must be pushed to the top! For Jims sake! Plus those assholes chopped the bottem off the rope so now its a whole differnt story. Fixed crap is part of climbing at Smith if it wernt for all the crap hanging what would the tourons have to look at on a lonely day. And what about all the chalk stains! You know I try to keep it as real and as pure as possible! I'm coming over this week to work my fat off on your wall!
Love,