corvallisclimb
-
Posts
1270 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by corvallisclimb
-
-
heres a pic looking down from mabey the second bolt i think?
-
Nice! Thats crazy! It would be nuts going for that first bolt free. For some reason I thought the new Watt's draft said TR. I'm not on my normal comp so I can't check. Hopefully he got it right since its FINALLY off the the press.
-
ya mike stoger freed the first 40ft or something to the 2nd or 3rd bolt. i heard bob mcgown freed the whole first pitch but i think it might have been on top rope. the second pitch traverse is pretty sketchy. i guess so is pitch one you could probably hit the ground from 1 or two spots. i heard it went clean but ive had to place a beak and a LA.
-
I doubt it will close this year the current ranger who closed it, finished his stint about two weeks ago.
Now to add to the climbing content of the site, heres a story from the FA of the orginal Picnic Lunch Wall route. It took place at the same belay where you almost got the chop. Anyways so it was Tom Bauman and Kim Schmitz. They climbed the original start to the route and set up a hammock bivy. It was cold, I'm pretty sure it was November. So Kim wound up dropping his sleeping bag. Bob, Tom's brother was accross the river, prior to the bridge. Kim kept yelling to Bob to come get his sleeping bag and tie it on to the ropes, only to recive a solid fuck you guys! So as the night progressed Kim continued to whine and Tom couldnt get to sleep. Finnaly Tom couldnt take it any more and gave Kim his half bag and toughed it out like only an Oregon hardman could. Anyways they topped out the next day avoiding the direct finish because Kim was so desprate to get off. They both went on to be major hardmen.
-
You really shouldn't input based on second hand beta procurement, but, oh well. I guess anybody can read a guidebook.
what the fuck are you talking about?
why do you have to turn every thread into a fist fight
-
its out by moolack i have no idea of the name though does it have on on a map? looks kinda like the rabbit ears but lower angled with all that grass on it
-
bump - lets see some pics the weathers shit so....
-
How old are you now Joseph? I would have thought 50 right now.
-
hey like you said in some other tread the season for you aint over till feb 1st so we still got time!
-
after only 15 minnutes
-
any bolts placed now at moolack will be covered in moss by spring and you'll need a metal detector to find them.
:lmao: natures version of bolt chopping -
okay here it goes the guys over at supertopo are doing this a lot but i dont see the trolls over here giving shout outs so hopefully i can start a trend.
I just wanna show my appreciation for Joseph. Though I haven't yet had the time to tie in with him, I do know he is one hell of a nice guy and extremely dedicated to the sport. Some people don't always agree with him but thats true of every one. A couple of weeks ago Joseph randomly called my up saying he had some pitons to drop off for my replacement work. What I didnt know was some pitons ment 2 backpacks full of gear and a portaledge. This random act of kindness left me in awe. I'm young and poor so a hook up like this was just a dream. For all you do for the bacon crew and everyone else, Joseph you are the man. So thank you!!!
-
i thought i was the only one called out for trolling on this thread? like this
just got back from the moolack the battery on my bosch is dead and wrist is sore from beating in those huge glueins wich are a pain in the ass to chop.
now thats a troll
-
i reccomend skipping the anchor you guys belayed at that was added for the free climb and using the next, this significantly reduces rope drag on the second pitch. way to do it clean!
-
its no secret go find it and add some anchors for me.
Where specifically do you see a need for anchors at that particular crag? Every route that gets done there has been done sans fixed anchors and people repeat most of them frequently. Building there own anchors every time with out a problem.
Or were you just trolling?
i get scared when there are no bolts
-
We were on The Big R.
jesus christ you dont here that every day!
-
tons of sweet chimneys at smith but thats a little far.
upper pitches up lions jaw are bitchen.
-
ya i too have done that rap/jug countless times and never had that happen. i even set up a rope swing off there and never had an issue with the ropes. was that a monster rope those things suck!
-
its is illegal... but non of the rangers care enough to do anything. as long as you dont make a huge sceene about it. the video posted is from the same day the kid drowned... a lot of action that day.
-
no worries we all talk shit from time to time... yes they are bolt ladders, the tvedts know it, but they are not my routes so im not going to chop em. as for moolack if you wanna find it. its located off the fisher creek trail found via FS 1944 in the waldo lake wilderness. its no secret go find it and add some anchors for me.
-
hey why did you delete your posts? you scared of the oregon climbing community? what BS! i wish i coulda read what you said... but what i gather, you claim your going to chop at flagstone then delete after you get called out. wow fucking weak dude!
-
nice Ian! let me know when your back home!
-
Thanks dude. Go get it. Stickclip was useful.
Ben tells me about Snibble T everytime we go climbing. I'm assuming you been on top and not just in its shadow. That traverse start option seems sweet on its own.
Yeah, I'm still in Snibble's shadow. My buddy and I have been up to half mast on the route, but we were driven off our sole attempt by cold (me being a pussy). We didn't mess with the aid line. There is a direct line that entails one pitch of 10+ bolts, an another pitch of steep 11- bolts on suspect rock. From there it's a 5.7 ramp of choss to that stellar looking 5.9 dihedral....I have no excuse for not having done the whole route yet. Perhaps your Abraxis adventure will prove inspirational.
Again, good on you guys for getting on that thing. Sick and impressive.
The true Snibble line is way easier than SHWL wich I know you sent. Go get some more classic 60's funk!
-
I am kind of obsessed with the idea of making a free variation on P3. It looks to me like you could free the continuation of the P2 crack system with better rock, steep, and bigger holds.
I agree, so much more potential up there. The arete up high is insane!
New Smith Guide printed!
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
Okay... I've helped out Alan a bit on this project over the past couple years and all I can say is this book is going to be awsome. The topos are done in the exact same format as the old book. All of the pictures are now in color its going to just be a beefed up version of the old book in a falcon binding. More topos/pictures and about 600 new routes. It wouldn't have taken so long if Alan wasnt so anal about the final product. Since the cats outta the bag and its acctually coming out if I get to my personal computor soon mabey I'll post a sneak peak.