corvallisclimb
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Posts posted by corvallisclimb
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talked to Tom about it he said its a death route... my guess the hardest route in oregon. ive looked over at it from braddur many times... if your seriously interested send me a pm i've though long and hard about this route
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nice dood i was out there musta missed you. birds in a rut is a classic to bad you didnt get to the diheadral pitch.
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Nice Radek! you should format your TRs so they show up here as well!
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or do this
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i've soloed loads of crap witha gri gri and know tons of people who have done way more.... if your doing aid moves and just stepping up in your ladders its way easy to feed the slack as you stand up because you only need one hand to pull you up and one hand to slack the gri gri... pretty simple. i usually just keep one backup knot tied in the rope no more than 20ft below me so it doesnt snag on shit. i never carry the extra rope with me unless it is some crazy free clibming pitch i know it would get hung up in otherwise just keep in in a rope bag at the belay. you can use rubberbands mid pitch on long pitches to take weight off the rope knowing the rubber band will break if you fall... or clove hitch a bomber bolt or rivet. for free climbing just pull out enough slack so you can get to the next stance where you can pull out more slack wich often times can be 20+ feet. yes this is dangerous but thats soloing. try not to fall. your prolly more prone to fall fucking around with the grigri from a shitty stance trying to pull slack. i try and keep it simple my grigri on a triangular steel quick link to prevent cross loading. one back up knot tied in the rope only clipped to my harness on hard aid. if you really want to free climb a lot mabey invest in a silent partner but other wise grigris are fine. my friend soloed zodiac in 12 hours with a grigri. again keep it simple, dont think about it too much or soloing will become a pain in the ass. also dont fall unless you really have to, most people dont fall soling, charlie porter soloed tons of walls and never fell soloing, his system was using 2 prussiks and grabbing the rope with his teeth to feed slack. or charles cole who used a stich plate and a grigri in some death system where falling could rip the sheath. it could be worse.
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I was thinking of the rabbit ears when I saw that picture....
but I did hike into the base of the twin pictures years back.
There was a bolt like that was missing hangers that looked like it could be fun.
Never heard of "F7"
ya on the think the south face there is a bolt like 15ft up missing a hanger i dont think there are any more... F7 was before the yos decimal system F = free F10 being the limit. the only spot where twin pillars are written up are in the dodge guide wich uses the original rating system. so ill stick with the original rating
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wassup???? i know there are like 20+ more people who could contribute to this thread.
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try supertopo.com thats where all the cali bros are
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The Main Pillar at the Twin Pillars is a damn hard summit. I belive we climbed "The Campfire Route" F7 A3... It was kinda loose, sorta scary, but well worth it. I don't know anyone else that has climbed the Pillars. My guess is its been under 5 ascents. There was no trace of any rappel slings on the summit. Just one original bolt. Thanks Bryan for ripping it up out there with me!
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Nice! Well hi there Mr. Yost. You where also on the FA of Orgasmagoria. Cheers!
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Aren't all the new routes pretty much common knowledge already? What is everyone expecting to discover?
Well, what do you know. One of the "new" routes is named after me. What a nice surprise!
Happy New Year
Well, whats the route?
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bump for mikes book! got my copy for x mas and was even surprised to find a picture of mine in it, sweet mike way to go!!!!
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Bill, thats great! Is it the Witch?
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the routes by grade section seems to be absent from my copy...
that had to be cut no more than 500 pages
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pete- get me a hot tub in there and ill start climbing on hood again a bar would help too
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The Thumb on the Wombat at Smith is probably one of the most obscure summits out there. Either climb Santiam Highway Ledges (5.10a) or Cat Fight Cracks (5.10a X) or make a long involved ridge scramble from the summit of the Wombat. To quote Watt's "Only the most obsessive peak baggers with bother with this silly spire".
The Thumb (5.7), Smith Rock
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Ya Brad did the FA I don't know anyone else thats repeated it. He could have done it more than once. So I figured solo was the best way to repeat it for my 23rd birthday.
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Here's a shot from the Christian Brothers Traverse where you can tag four or five summits in one route. There really is'nt much loose rock on it and if your carefull you wont knock any off. I soloed the reverse traverse, and didnt even knock anything off with ropes all over and what not. The regular way is 5.7 and the reverse is 5.7 A1, I belive the reverse has had only two ascents both solo. So theres no excuse to not get on the traverse.
With highly varied climbing, great position and all the summits, why not?
Summit of the Monk, Christian Brothers Traverse, Smith Rock
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Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too....
The "unclimbed" list is getting smaller - slowly but surely......
Hello there Mr. Cramer! Your contributions to the Sky Valley climbing sceene are awsome! I don't belive we've ever met, but I was the one that did the FA of "Shitty Park" on the Rattle Tale Wall thanks to Jake.
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The question is the route name. Anyone know? At Upper Cape Horn, looking at the cliff and from right to left, it's the second one.
And hell yes Kev, OL was briefly and reluctantly coaxed out of retirement for a few laps. He was on fire that day but hasn't been seen since. Here he is performing a crampon tool match.
hey Geoff nice twig anchor... looks like it would hold a semi
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Got to sit down with Alan last week and pick up my copy of the book and all I've gotta say is WOW, this book is the shit. Alan spent so much time making sure not to miss a thing. The topos and pictures are top notch as well as the descriptions. So if you have any interest in Smith climbing go grab a copy and see for your self. So heres to Alan, because with out his dedication we'd still be reading crappy print outs and not climbing routes that now finally deserve some traffic.
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that's awesome Tyler. register up top??
nope sadly... my guess would be under 10 ascents though... who knows tho, its hard to say.
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Okay heres one scary summit! Shiprock (5.7X) at Smith... This is by far one of the loosest most rotten things I've climbed, but well worth it! It was always hard to find someone to climb it with but finally this guy wanderd up to my friend and I as we where finishing an obscure route at Smith. He said he hadnt roped up yet at Smith but had done a little soloing and really wanted to gut up some summits. So I proposed the Christian Brothers Traverse for the next day, he was in. We wound up swapping leads along it with lazy ass Jake (bigwalling) tagging along. After that I knew this guy was core. So for our next outting we did Shiprock as his second roped climb ever at Smith. This guy is Brian Moore and hes fucking hard core!!! Anyways now some pics from the day, all stolen from Brian.
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Nice, welcome to cc.com Greg! Got any pictures of Jurrasic Park or Redmans Tooth?
Edit: Or better yet any pictures from your ascent of Big Squaw?
Rapping the Monkey
in Oregon Cascades
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we used shunts all the time when working on cellpone towers but id be hard to find any solid use for them in any aspect of rock climbing other than rescue or hardcore rigging