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corvallisclimb

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Posts posted by corvallisclimb

    MSR windpro stove question?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted · Edited by corvallisclimb

    Hey I all I just got an MSR windpro stove for a little backpacking with my grilfriend. Were taking a 5 or 6 night trip and I'm wondering how much fuel this thing uses. As I have not gotten to use it to feel it out yet. This going to be one of those trips where every once counts... so how many 8oz fuel cannisters, 2 or 3? Well be using it for dinner and breakfast. mostly boiling water and stuff but cooking some meals 2 or 3 nights, and making freezedried eggs and warming precooked bacon.

     

    sorry for the dumb noob question. but i hate carrying extra shit.

    FS: MSR Carbon Reflex 2 (tent)

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted · Edited by corvallisclimb

    I've got a brand new MSR Carbon Reflex 2 person tent for sale. Still got the tags on it, I can send/post pics if you want. This is like the lightest backpacking tent availible. I'd like to get $375 wich is cheaper brand new than anywhere else online. PM me... would help me a lot right now!

     

    Cheers

    Tyler

    Thank you!

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    I just want to thank everyone that has helped with me in replacing bolts. Thats a lot of bolts! With out you guys this shit would never get done, so THANKS! And with out ASCA non of this would have ever happend.

     

    This ones for you! :brew:

     

    Aaron Webb

    Adam Cox

    Bill Amos

    Brian Claytor

    Brian Gilbert

    Brian Schmitz

    Cathy Power

    Chris Fralick

    Cody Peterson

    David Trepp

    Gabe Colier

    Greg Orton

    Harold Hall

    Ian Roth

    Jacob Ringold

    Jake Hector

    Juan Jose Mayor

    Jim Ablao

    Jim Anglin

    Joe Richardson

    John Rich

    Jonathan Shrock

    Joseph Healy

    Kip Beckwith

    Mai Hyman

    Mark Deffenbaugh

    Mike Layton

    Pete Guagliardo

    Randy Rimby

    Ryan Lawson

    Steve Schneider

    Tadeo Sotomayor

    Thomas Emde

    Tim Olson

    Wilbur Nazarian

     

    And most thanks to Gary Kirk, Tom Bauman and Jeff Thomas for flipping me shit everytime they see a leeper hanger.

    Mystery Bolter West Side Cascades

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    I'll say it again: THIS HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH YOU!

     

    On behalf of myself, the initial developers of these particular boulders, and other climbers who go to this area and who have been outraged by these new bolts I am making an effort to track down the person who added these bolts and correct the problem. When I chop them it will be no mystery because I am putting this out there.

     

    I don't care to make a "profit" in any climbing endeavor. I have thrown thousands of dollars towards the production of climbing guidebooks and I have distributed this material because I care about the activity and the people that partake, not because I will ever recoup the hours and ink cartridges that have stacked up in a decade.

     

    At least my bitching at someone errantly placing bolts is something that has to do with me because I'm the one calling it out and swinging the crowbar. You are bitching - and this doesn't even have effect for you, you have nothing to do with it!

     

    I've lost the pure essence of climbing - Bullshit -

     

    If I am one of the few that gives a shit to see unneeded, obtrusive bolts where they shouldn't be. Re-establishing the Azian Crack the way it was in the late 90's when it was first climbed - boltelss- I'm trying to tap back into the essence of real climbing not "convenience climbing".

     

    If you have no regard for those that came before you and climbed with bolts for a very very long period of time - why - my assumption is your the same kind of developer who can't feel like a route has seen "your" ascent if it hasn't seen "your" bolt.

     

    If you didn't place the bolts, and aren't even bringing an opinion or more information in regard to the area - don't post- go talk more about your aid lines and leave other peoples topics alone -

     

    Case in point - I was there yesterday, spoke to some folks, found out where the bolter is from and found out that he rarely if ever returns. His friend, who I met, identified it as a boner mistake that He (bolters buddy that I met) told Mystery Bolter that he was wrong and if he kept it up there would be consequences.

     

    I did not start this thread to bitch and call out. Getting in touch with a newer generation of visitors to this area in conjunction with communication with the initial developers to the area is important steps for me before I turn them fixe five pieces into top-rope bolts elsewhere. If I said nothing, chopped, then dealt with the repercussions - I'm part of the problem, not a solution...

     

    P.S. corvallisclimb just so understand - you are not the foremost authority on what is relevant to "Oregon Climbing". You are just ONE climber, get over yourself.

     

    You are a serious ass hole. I never tryed to be a dick, or say I'm "the foremost authority on to Oregon Climbing". I just have a serious passion for all things regarding Oregon Climbing, and that seems to piss you off. You honesly hate me for no fucking reason and it is so fucking lame. Fuck off dude, your guide book is going to blow ass and no one will fucking buy that peice of shit. So ya keep dreaming of the profits. YOU ARE A TOTAL DICK! AND EVEYONE I KNOW THAT KNOWS YOU SAYS THAT. :wave:

     

    I'm done with you and all your bullshit so don't even bother to respond. Because I won't.

    Mystery Bolter West Side Cascades

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

     

     

    Not trying to start some fight, I just want to see climbing content

     

    then don't participate in the thread. it has nothiing to do with you right? its not a climbing area of interest or pertinance.

     

    You think maybe you could just move on from it, or does its mere presence bother you?

     

    I ignore threads all the time. I don't muck with and completely ignore your "pinnacle" threads all the time because it doesn't stoke me. I don't need to make a big deal to you about how they bore me and how I don't feel they have their place - I leave it and ignore it. Try it

     

    Climbing content that will be gained from me will be in guidebook form for a number of areas that up until this point cannot be featured on a website like this so, as far as "contributing content" - pm me, i trade content with people all the time, on a private basis because of where i climb

     

    just got back from climbing with my daughter. Will probably put some stoke up - but everyone on this website is anti-bouldering so you can't please everybody i guess...

     

    Put this thread in spray then, because its relavance to Oregon Climbing is zilch. Bolting on those bolders has been discussed before, and no one gives a shit! You've lost the pure essence of climbing. Keep dreaming of trying to make a profit of writing a guide book. Have fun and please try to be less serious. I'll stay outta your threads, but if your going to post a bitch fest keep it elsewhere!

    Mystery Bolter West Side Cascades

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    You ever posted any real climbing content other than the same old bitching about bolts? I mean theres a time and place but comeon dude seriously most people don't give a shit, go climbing and post about that, quit the bitching about bolts your not getting youself ANYWHERE. Nor are you setting any standards. Give up your elitist attitude and just go climbing.

     

     

    Not trying to start some fight, I just want to see climbing content instead of the non stop bitch sessions. If I could be the mod, I would just delete these threads the second thaey start up.

    name that route!

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    Just left of Peking. One of the three original routes to the top. You would enjoy it a lot about A2 dont need a ton of pins or anything just a couple las and angles maybe a bigger beak or two. P1 5.6 P2 A2 P3 A2

    [TR] Index LTW - Jap Gardens/10% MV, Iron Horse

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Damn! Looks like EVERYONE was aiding on the LTW, aid is back! Hmm not too sure last time I was there in 08 they were all fixed. Its a lot of circle heads in horizontal pods. Did some other FA in 07 thats super fun high quality a direct variation to Avenging the Goddess Kring on the Rattle Tale, A2 beaks, 4 of each size I think and a LA or two maybe an angle. #2 cam in a pod to start. Called "Shitty Park" since it looks a lot like City Park but thinner. Good beginner nailing route. Super straight forward took like 20 min to do the FA. KBs work too but maybe harder?

    [TR] Index LTW - Jap Gardens/10% MV, Iron Horse

    in North Cascades

    Posted · Edited by corvallisclimb

    I suggest Narrow Arrow Direct as a better aid option. Everyone seems to do the overhang while the direct is still an aid pitch. The C3 varition from the direct to the overhang in that area makes for a fun aid pitch as well.

     

    Edit: Oh that also reminds me for all those aid climbers at the LTW with a hammer. We did some silly FA one day beween Narrow Arrow Direct and the A4 heads variation. It was prolly only 50' of new climbing but some cool A3+/A4 beaks n shit to some of the heads and the up the C3 varition. Narrow Arrow Super Direct.

    Oregon Pinnacles

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    I dont know the name of it. Its between the Hills Creek Spires and Shady Creek Spires. We thought we where going to do the FA of it but someone beat us to it by drilling THE MOST poorly crafted bolt ladder I have ever seen. I kinda want to call it Scorpion Spire, because after when I was on the ground trundling, under some of the rocks I found three scorpions one almost 3 inches long. The bolt ladder was one of the most botched routes I have ever seen, who ever you are chop your route and climb that thing in proper style!

     

    dscf1673q.jpg

    here is one of the smaller ones

    name that route!

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    I don't really know what we did haha, Alan put it in the book as this...

     

    "Adams/Emde Variation (5.8 X) Mixed to 3 inches. You can make and already bad route much worse by following this dangerous variation. From the anchor atop The Quickie, step left past two bolts before stepping back right to a flake system. Climb a freaky, hollow sounding flake the size of a Boeing 737's wing and traverse left across a crumbling slab, arrange a sketchy belay anchor. Traverse far left on easy rock (5.4) before joining the third pitch of the regular route."

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