corvallisclimb
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Posts posted by corvallisclimb
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Well Alan I must say that A4 pitch on CL Concerto has to be one of the most impressive aid pitches anywhere in Oregon. Doing that in 1972 with RURPS and KBs is absolutly insane to think about.
Tyler
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Hey Justin... What up with your obsession with Beacon, when I know you got so much climbing closer to home!! You seem like the black sheep when everone else really is stuck in the hell of PDX. Just a friendly question
Suppose It's cuz we have yet to get out togther....
It's kind of funny everyone that I meet up there... when they find out im from c'town they always say oh u must climb with tyler then.
Hey well don't be shy, I may get out mid week next week for some action. Do you work?
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did not khow we were arguing (maybe give it ten minutes)
Joe do you have copies of the WA F&W Peregrine Falcon Management Plan and/or the current Climbing Management Plan that you would be willing to post up? Also who is and how do you get a hold of the Climbing Advisory Committee that will be working with Eric?
Hey Justin... What up with your obsession with Beacon, when I know you got so much climbing closer to home!! You seem like the black sheep when everone else really is stuck in the hell of PDX. Just a friendly question
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Hey Radek,
Do you have a scanner? You should scan the Mazama article and post it!
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Dean Fry would simply have re-written the history of Oregon rock climbing, had he not crashed on HW 20 that October night in 1973 on his way back to Corvallis (The day he did Math Test). If you've ever climbed one of his routes you will understand. His career only spanned two years but the routes he added are some of the most serious in Oregon. Some are classics as well. If any one had climbed one of his routes I'd love to hear your stories.
Off the top of my head here is a list of his routes and FFAs . I will make it more complete when I have some guide books in front of me.
Smith Rock
FFA Free Lunch via Unfinished Symphony (5.9 A3) - Picnic Linch Wall - Dean Fry, Larry Kemp - Mar 6 1972
FA Shipwreck (5.8 R) - East Ship - Dean Fry, Terri Rader - Jan 3 1973
FA No Doz (5.9 A4) - West Ship - Dean Fry, Russ Bunker - Feb 24 1973
FFA Zebra Zion (5.1a) - Morning Glory Wall - Dean Fry, Jeff Thomas - Jan 13 1973
FA Fridays Jinx (5.7 R) - The Four Horsmen - Dean Fry, Paul Fry March 10, 1973
FFA Math Test aka Karate Crack to Peapod Cave (5.10a) - The Diheadrals - Dean Fry, Steve Lyford - Oct 3 1973
FA Skag Variation (5.8 R) - The Diheadrals - Jeff Thomas, Dean Fry - Nov 4 1972
FFA Moonshine Diheadral (5.9) - The Diheadrals - Dean Fry, Jeff Thomas - Nov 4 19729
FA Methuselas Column (5.10a R) - The Diheadrals - Dean Fry, Paul Fry - Mar 10 1973
FA Lycopodophyta (5.8) - The Diheadrals - Dean Fry, Jeff Thomas - Dec 17 1973
FFA New Testiment (5.10a) - The Christian Brothers - Dean Fry, Larry Kemp - Feb 18 1973
FA Smith Summit East Wall (5.8 X) - Dean Fry, Wayne Arrington - May 27 1973
FA London Tower (5.10a R) - Dean Fry, Russ Bunker, Steve Mikesell - Apr 14 1973
FA Desert Solitair (5.10a R) - Kola Rock - Jeff Thomas, Keith Edwards, Dean Fry - Nov 25 1972
FA Catfight Cracks (5.10a X) - The Wombat - Dean Fry, Jeff Thomas - Sept 30 1972
FA CL Concerto (5.9 A4) - The Wombat - Dean Fry, Jack Barrar Sept 13-14 1972
FA Space Cowboy (5.9 R) - Wolf Rock - Dean Fry, Jack Barrar 1972
FA Gigantor (5.8 X) - Wolf Rock - Wayne Arrington, Dean Fry 1973
FA Butter Fingers (5.9 R) - Menagerie
FA The Seal - (5.7) - Menagerie
Dean was a bad ass.
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i could spray all day but i won't...but i will say that the 4 pitch cougar buttress (from the 70s) has got to be the best 5-9 multi in oregon, not that that is saying much....
I'll second Bryan on this one. And thats saying a lot!
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Smith Rock State Park
Diamonds and Rust Buttress - Slow Train (5.7R)
8 lead bolts 2 anchor bolts
w/ Catherine Power and John Rich 2/13/10
This is a cool adventure route that should get some traffic with some new bolts. A long 150' pitch to a single rope rap or continue up Diamonds and Rust for two more pitches.
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ahh perfect thats what I recall too, thanks a lot! If anyone else has input don't hesitate.
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Hey well I just spent like half an hour trying to get the search engine to work, but it never seems to do what I want it to do. Anyways I remember there was a thread on this a while ago. I'm wondering what the type of bird it is that nests all over the cliffs are. I'm pretty sure its mostly a type of swallow? Does any one know what kind though? They make the mud nests? It also seems like theres a slightly bigger bird that will nest on the cliff pigeons of some type? I know the birds of prey and such. I just want to know what the major population is. Thanks in advanced.
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Moderators: This thread isn't in spray because ________...
the Columbia River Gorge fourm was made to keep all the excess spray out of the Oregon fourm to save the moderaters some time. its the new spray fourm.
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I just want everyone to get along! I'm sick of the bitching involved in climbing, get over it, go climb and post some cool pics to prove it and all will be well!
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You are saying that I am calling out good friends of yours - this is in references to the Fralicks and the bolts they have placed at Flagstone, correct?
Do you agree that there should be bolts every 3-4 feet on a low angle slab?
Do you agree with bolts that were not involved with a routes first ascent but were added later for the sake of a larger mass appeal?
It wouldn't be a waste of time - as another poster stated - if there was at least some discussion over what "good" bolting practices are. Corvallisclimb - you bolt, why don't you bring something to the table instead of focusing on a broken record(Bolts vs. No-Bolts). How should this Marc person go about his plight stylistically?
BTW As far as -"You act like you know fucking everything and everyone on here is wrong and a total wanker" - Climbing ethics is completely subjective. What is true for you may not be true for others. I'm actually in agreement with a great number of people that have posted on this topic that have focused on what the climbers before Marc have done in regard to his route development dilemma.
Dude did you fully miss the point? You are still fucking wrong and talking shit on people you know nothinig about. THEY DID NOT PLACE THOSE BOLTS YOUR TALKING ABOUT. So seriously can it. As for those bolts ya I obviously don't like em but I'm not some ethical prock whos going out chopping bolts, so thats that the bolts are there end of discussion. I have no desire to bitch about bolts. I'm just trying to stand up for some friends who don't deserve to be ridiculed by someone who doesn't even know them.
Since I led off from the discussion at hand heres my two cents for Marc.
50' lead bolted crag routes are kinda lame. If its super run out no one will do it and it will become a moss fest like everything. If you bolt from hooks bolts could be in the wrong places like people have been saying especially if you think its 5.12. Hand drilling on lead is great fun, and feels damn good. But where were at today in climbing save your time and energy and rap bolt a good line. Use that extra time and energy and strength you gained to go put up a sweet groud up route in a little bigger setting. But obviously if you just want practice go up and bolt it on lead with a hand drill and some hooks. Though the end product might not be as good. It's your choice thats why climbings fun.
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Hey Che
get your facts straight bro. You act like you know fucking everything and everyone on here is wrong and a total wanker. But calling out good friends of mine online who had nothing to do with what your talking about is wrong, and where I have to chime in. Seriously fuck off no one gives two shits about your anti-bolt spray. Overused Oregonian example to the case in point: the Fralicks and whatever midgets they were manicuring routes at Flagstone for comes to mind.
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This closure is good for you guys... mabey you can try climbing somewhere else for once! I get sick of climbing at Smith and its 100 times as big. As for Joseph he loves Beacon and I'm 100% positive hes spent more time than any of you spray lords trying to do good things for BRSP. So get the fuck over it! Soon enough you guys can get back to your grassy ledge land of the little people se corner young warriors aid climbing jack off fest portaledge party 80ft off the deck gangbangs. Or "sleep over" or what ever the fuck you have to tell your wives to escape the grim reality of living in the metro area. :fahq:
:ass: P.S. this shit is too funny I mean really bitching about the trail being closed like its the end of all world can you not go a fucking day with out jacking off at the base of se cunt? every year they close 75% of the menagerie wilderness due to a pair of peregrines who nest one one rock yet 2000 acres of land are closed. no one fucking climbs there anyways... what do i do, nothing i never bitch on here about how my life is over how fucked the FS is and belive me there managment plan for the peregrines in the menagerie is 20 times more fucked up than what you guys are dealing with. bitching on here is not going to change shit. neither is being a whiney ass climber complaining about shit like this. ya its fucked but its the man, these are damn hard things to change. but be fucking greatful for guys like Joseph who step it up with out him beacon might wind up like the menagerie closed every year till aug 1st with no chance of early opening. go climb, go help beacon, but for fucks sake give up the bitch fest. you guys remind me of the stupid ass dogs who spend all day chasing there tail getting absolutly no where.
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different music - this soundtrack was TERRIBLE! might as well have been the spice girls! even the climbing wasn't enough to keep me watching with that squawk coming out of my computer speakers!
ya did they really pick that shit????
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anybody know if picnic lunch wall is gong to close this year?
My guess would be probably not, as Julian the ranger last year left and he was the one that brought that on. But I would not be at all surpised if it happens again.
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i wonder how ivan reads the rack reccomendations for an aid climb, i thought super topo made that shit easy
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heres some pics
me jugging, ryan at the belay (note: i think its kinda steep)
belay meeting me on the left ryan on the right
ryan starting to nail the second pitch where you join air to spare after 2 placements
ryan launching into the free climbing up to the ledge above him to a long traverse to the left and into the hobbit hole
all photos by Jacob Ringold... thanks dude!
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hey, you can still jug on that rope on soft shoe! i clambered up and yanked on it just this last weekend - it'll be reaaaaal interesting starting on it though for sure!
so when do i get to come along on one of this freak-show aid-thangs you do boy?
When you quit being a teacher and climb with me during the week!! haha no soon enough dood were getting out one of these next weekend to come.
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Tyler,
I was at smith over MLK and a number of people thought your rope was set up to be the rope swing somewhere near there. A lot of people swung around on that thing regardless of the coreshot. I know you are doing lots of cool shit at smith that doesnt get done much, but you have got to stop leaving ropes hanging off every blank face. They are an attractive nuisance and an eyesore. I could care less about ropes left up in obscure places, but leaving them on frontside smith walls is not good.
<3 Ian
Hey Ian babe! You know I mean no harm... Ryan got really sick so we got delayed a week wich included MLK weekend. I think more about that rope on Soft Shoe Ballet than any one so trust me its nothing I'm proud of but the "Jim Anglin Memorial Route" must be pushed to the top! For Jims sake! Plus those assholes chopped the bottem off the rope so now its a whole differnt story. Fixed crap is part of climbing at Smith if it wernt for all the crap hanging what would the tourons have to look at on a lonely day. And what about all the chalk stains! You know I try to keep it as real and as pure as possible! I'm coming over this week to work my fat off on your wall!
Love,
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seriously.
the chick on the right looks kinda like she gotta crap though.
what are you afraid of???
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Yeah they are! Cue pics of various beaks: opps....
Bill, why the hell didn't I get an x-mas card!!!!
:lmao: 
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Cool. SA ?
If memory serves Jim told me that Tom Blust repeated it but that wouldnt make much sense as he was on the FA. I wish I had written down everything he told me because there was a lot I lost with him. I'm 99 percent sure Jim told me it was repeated, I'll ask Watts and see if he might know.
Either way it was hard and Jim was a fucking bad ass. The first pitch being extremely steep (I'd say 40' instead of Ryan's 30') and sustaind was never too dangerous. The first 30' are 50 degrees overhanging, steep, thin and technica (and yes 27 beaks, 5 bolts, 3 hooks, 2 angles, 1 LA, 1 nut) but the seam slowly widens the higher you get. The second pitch (on Jim's route) started the same as the rest though 80 degree slab but after 50' of beaks you had to free climb... not that hard but rotten and run out. He did get another beak in above two cam placements but shit gnarly as all hell. Cleaning I got to the very last beak and was faced with a 50' traverse to easier ground. Fuck that shit I lowered off a crappy ass #2 beak, well Ryan placed one of my tomahawk's but no way in hell was I going to leave one of those! So I banged in some shit lowerd off and it was over... well as far as Smith descents go from the hobbit hole requires a bunch of shit a couple of raps exposed scrambles and just all around crap. Oh well thanks Ryan for getting back out, a lot more of this to come but nothign as steep. This IS the steepest route at Smith.
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a couple of pics to come... oh ya and some tomahawk placements those things from moses and b law are the shit.
Oregon Bolt Replacement
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
Wolf Rock
Barad Dur
2 anchor bolts on P1
3 lead bolts on P1
w/ Chris Fralick and Dave Trepp 2/28/10