drater

Marty's book covers LaClede and Post Falls. That pretty much makes up about 99% of the climbing done in North Idaho. Thad's new book, assuming your talking about Thad, will cover more areas but they all pretty much suck anyway, so it's not like more publicity will change them much. It's also going to have more up to date info on Chimney Rock, which will be of interest to visiting climbers. NW Montana, now that's some rock worth keeping quiet.

Nice. This is the kind of extremely accurate and intelligent responses I peruse climbing forums for. Dishman would be better if the girls from the Vu would walk up there and give free lap dances to belayers. Now that would be newsworthy.

Roll one for me while your at it, lol!

I thought I smelled something foul in here. Leave the traddads alone and go scrub moss, chosslicker.

Horsethief Butte, that's the right name. I knew reservoir was off but it had been 7 or 8 years since I'd been down there. I like the bouldering there, don't get me wrong. It's a shame that the best problem(s) is closed to the pictograph preservation, I actually made the mistake of hanging my jacket on the sign that says "No climbing" in front of the one uber-classic problem, without reading it until I finished sending the problem and was putting my coat back on, lol. If I move to the Gorge, I'm sure I'll grow to appreciate it even more. Retired, if you like the Butte, you should (or probably already have, living in White Salmon) check out the rock farther out east. I can't remember if was west of 97 on 14 or east of 97 on 14. Also, Dallesport has some good bouldering/deep water soloing down on the river and the bouldering down behind the Shiloh Inn in The Dalles seriously needs some development. Rowena Crest up by the overlook above Lyle had the best bouldering I found in a week of lurking around down there, similar to the Sherwin Plateau area of the eastern Sierra. Damn TR keeps getting longer.

Still open, still chossy, still worth pulling over for the quick hike, cool pictographs, and the few decent boulder problems not closed by the park for pictograph protection. Not worth stopping for to be surrounded by hordes of helmet clad,yosemite sized wall rack jangling extreme topropers (I mean shit, some of those bluffs are 40' tall and vertical). Really good bouldering about 20 miles east, private property and the property owners will let you know it is but are cool if you ask first. Best rock in the gorge, and I'm including rooster rock in this, could be some short sport rigs if someone was willing to bolt steep south facing stuff in the middle of bum fuck egypt. Kiting was better than the climbing. That's my short and sweet TR.

In southeren Washington, hwy 14. Is it still open? Any access issues that are known? thanks.

Whatever dude, there's three black people that live in this town. Out of 9,000.

From the lack of interest the little fishes gave this measly bait, I would agree. Perhaps it's time for some stinkbait?

Let me assure all of you, there is no rock in Idaho and what rock might be here is all bouldering. Imagine it, if you will, thousands and thousands of prana clad, beanie wearing, boom box rocking teenagers crushing every bit of vegetation in sight with their bus sized pads, throwing out "rad","dude","sweet", "sick" and screaming at the top of our lungs. That is Idaho. Everywhere there is rock in Idaho, that is the scene. Come on out, tradsters.

Wrong. Distel is a bouldering fiend, and they don't come much geekier. However, middle aged trad dads with #11 hex's clanking up the trail are the geekiest of geek. Lugging all that shit up 400' of 5.7 for that one 5.9 crux move, all 7' of it. Abject definition of geek. I've done more hard moves by the end of the warmup wall at the Circuit than you can at most chuffing areas in Washington State. Denial. Live it. Be it. Know it. Geek out on your camming ratios and fall factors. I'll be pulling down.

#1-Banks Lake #2-Omak Lake #3-Blue Lake, limestone, bitchez!!! Expect rattler encounters at all three.

You can go boldering down at Chelan Falls. Limited but somewhat worth it and probably 5-30 minutes from whichever campground you're staying at. Also, some decent bouldering around Pateros (20-25 minutes) and some chossy stuff out the road past the Chelan airport (5 minutes from downtown Chelan). As for chuffing, the above responses are pretty right on. Have fun.

PERFORMANCE ROCK CLIMBING by Dale Goddard and Uno something: Don't eat, at all, EVER!!! Train hard, every day. Rest days are for the weak. Don't blame me if your elbows explode. Skeletor skinny is the new black.

Myself and two co-workers set 70,000 acres of Hells Canyon aflame one fine afternoon in the summer of '96 in a successful attempt to prevent rampant forest fires from crossing over the rim (again) into vast (millions) acreage on the Oregon side. Every work day should be so enjoyable.

Marty's book on the inland NW has more up to date info on Laclede. Don't know if you already took your trip but you could be climbing in LaClede right now (sunny and it's southfacing). I'd be over there right now but I'm working (well, appearing to work). The Manressa Grotto has some really good bouldering, needs more development but plenty of FA's await for someone with the patience to clean them. But there's enough there to justify pulling over and dealing with the 2 second approach. Conveniently located between Laclede and the Metaline areas too. Marty's info on the other areas is spot on, Roosevelt Cedars would require a 4WD, if at all possible.

Windpack ontop of groppel ontop of large hoar crystals is what my patroller buddy up there said. RIP

no...the shit will stay in his pants and he will still effectively weigh 175 lbs... Unless he doesn't change his pants soon and he's climbing in Vantage in mid-summer. Then the water content will evaporate out of his shitty drawers leaving him somewhat lighter.....and stinkier.

Being fat is good for the tendons. That's what I'm telling myself anyway. Seems to be at least partly true as all three of my A2 pulley tears seem completely healed now, mostly because as a fat-ass I don't crimp on heinous clings like I used to. Now big incut jugs give me all the workout I need. As my good friend Morgan once said, "If you're not getting laid, you need to lower your standards". Holds true for climbing expectations as well.

Oh it's true all right, but it's not up there anymore so don't waste your time scouring the Pasayten. The local 'Nogan climbers were on that shit so quick. The one climber in the area I know that doesn't burn tuff is constantly lamenting the fact that he can't get anyone to go climbing anymore, as all motivation is properly wasted shortly after the morning awakening. Also, the deliverence reference would hold true for just about any town in the 'Nogan. Visit at your own risk. Nother rural legend is that located somewhere in the vast wasteland of choss in North Central Washington is some decent climbing. As if. Also, don't know about any bolts in the Cave up in Metaline but the stalagtite bouldering in there was insane, up until the point the Ranger escorted me out. Fucker, I was sending! Sorry, couldn't be bothered to quote all the posts, hope this makes sense.

I say 2-stroke chairlift with no lift lines. Vrrp-vrrp!

It did, it's called Banks Lake. Not quite on par with the granitic intrusions of the Southwest though.

Smithj? Lillooet? Skaha? The Nodder Oh My God? Or any of the other twenty-odd places in Eastern Washington that are so much better. On second thought, keep going to Vantage. It rocks, make sure all your friends go there with you, Sweet.

Used to fund extended stay trips in J-Tree (pre-National Park gestap days) by hanging outon rest days in our campsite with a view of "The Eye" on the Cyclops formation. Being rated an unexplicable 5.0, it was a haven for prana clad LA gym rats for their first outdoor lead. Soon enough, the mental difficulties of trusting gear in grainy rock while pulling overhanging 5.0 moves would win out and they would lower off (usually multiple pieces for safety). Sometimes they wouldn't even back clean the rest. Serious booty, although almost got in a fight with some aggro guy who knew why we were queing up behind them. Guess he needed to feel manly after the shameful retreat in front of his girlfriend. Second best climbing booty score...Bobbi Bensman (unfortunately pre-implant days).

Just a thought on these. Seriously stressful on tendons/ligaments in elbow & shoulder structures, also because of different type of stress (isometric, isotonic, I can't remember, I'm sure someone will correct me shortly) more recovery time is needed. Very high intensity exercise, best used in small doses. Don't even think about doing them again if you're still sore from last time...it's a different soreness than what you get from conventional weight training. My $.02