benb

I like it Chris I check the conditions on hood daily. That info is easy to find. Timberline's web site has conditions and web-cams going 24-7 NWAC has "hood" specific reports as well. I have registered many times @ timberline to find that no one has done anything with the forms. The "Out Climbing" box over flowing as well as the "returned safely" box. The forest circus only keeps track of climbers during the "climbing season" I do think they could do a better job. That said, I do like the fact that I can get out on any route when I feel like it without hassle. Self-reliance is a part of alpinism, a very important part. Working hard to stay safe is a no-brainer. Crampons, rope, helmet, are tools used to increase ones self-reliance. I am all for a personal location device, but at the discretion of the user, not beaurecrats in Salem who DO have much more pressing issues to deal with. I don’t believe MLU's would have saved any lives in the last several accidents on mt hood. When storms roll in, S&R teams do not move. B

MLU's, Cell Phones, GPS, Avy Trancievers, "Freedom of the hills" It is why we go out. Most can not even begin to understand. Godspeed to those who do not come back. B

Trip: Mt. Hood - Ramona Falls Date: 12/10/2009 Trip Report: How many of you have stood their and thought "I wonder if that freezes" I have been patently waiting for this to work our for ever. When I discovered the gate to the trailhead open and there was very little snow down that low, (3,400). It just worked out. I left the parking lot at 12:15 this morning. The hike in was uneventful. There are a bunch of trees over the river so crossing could be as scary as you wished. The trail had only a couple inches of snow in the deepest parts. I woke up to James and Trent WooHooing when they saw the falls frozen over. We got geared up to take a look. I liked the looks of the Right Chute and decided to give it a shot. I placed six screws used a tree anchor and tied off up top on a tree. James followed me up. We were so stoked. We rappelled down Rap Line leaving a top-rope for some more fun. I went up Rap Line on top-rope. James went up Main Line on TR. Trent climbed Rap Line, pulled some gear off the anchor, and we headed home. Such a Sweet Adventure Gear Notes: My pack was heavy!

B A!

I took my bindins off a pair of EP pro models (mothership platform) and mounted them to my VCTs. It was a smart move. Line does make some great boards. I was bummed when Line sold to K2 who builds their skies in Mexico. 4frnts are made with love in the USA by some great people where it snows.

Love my current set-up and would like to recomed it. Garmont Mega-rides (will get radiums when i can) Dynafit comfort (would like the FT12)and 4frnt VCT 129-98-109. (will replace with the same model) I have been so pumped with my garmonts. They climb and ski great. I have skied dynafits for 4 seasons and would never ski (well buy) any other AT binding. They do take some getting used to, but all AT bindings do. They do have some limitations: They do not like big park jumps, knuckling on the half pipe, or drops over 30ft unless the landing is PERFECT. 4Frnt VCTs are the best ski I have ever been on. So much fun. soft tip= great powder/mt hood powder ski. Stiff tail= good groomer/ heavy pack/ tired leg ski. You can carve like on rails and blast into the crud and land in deep powder, backwards if you are into that kind of thing. Bottom line.... Garmonts & Dynafits, You will be happy We must not shop at the same place if you are going to only spend a grand. They are all damn proud of what they make$$$$

A heavy pack on my back, skins on my skis. Sky’s clear and black, a full moon if you please. Folks I love in my tack, snow up to my knees. A route to the top, sweet smells in the breeze. A summit alone, just the shadows of dawn. Thoughts in my head, I need to ski strong. Seeing the line, letting them run. Holding on tight, having some fun. Heart pumping so fast, lungs hurting so bad, Legs screaming so loud, Good times I have had. B

Hello, I have a set of replacement tips for some Life-Link carbon poles. Anyone have any experience changing them? Do I need glue? How do I get the old broken tip off without damaging the carbon shaft? Your help is appreciated. B

That is a long slog, but so worth the view. Nice work! B

Hi I am looking for skis, not skies. 100cm ski set up for my 5 year old. Her boots have 234mm soles. thank you B

Hello, Looking for a pair of 100cm ski set up for my 5 year old. She has boots with 234mm sole. Cheers, B

Hello, I am looking for a set of skis for my 5 year old. She has boots with 234mm sole. She should ski on 100cm boards. I will also post in the "yard sale" Cheers, B

My BD Icon is M.I.A. Before I replace it, I thought I would ask if there is a better piece of gear out there. I had no problems with my BD but was not super impressed with the plastic used. It had some duct tape holding the batery case closed. Thanks, B

Wow, that is something you will have to remedy! Strap your boards on and ask one of those sled-heads for a tow.

Hey, is that Steins Pecker.

I am looking at the chace to do some sled-in skiing around the sisters area on Pres. Weekend. I could use some advice on where to go, regulations for that neck of the woods, permit info, act. Thanks, B

BC users at Timberline??????

http://www.mountainsavvy.com/index.html Check out the link. The class was great. Glenn Kessler and his crew did a great job.

Sounds like surface-hore (sp?) During the cold clear night, water evaporates out of the snowpack creating lots and lots of "stalagmites". They can be several inches tall. They create a super weak bond between layers. When new snow falls, it will be supported by those tiny little fingers of ice. If snow consolidates on them, the load will fail in first compression (when the fingers break) and then sheer when the slab goes. Check out mountainsavvy.com for an avy course. You will be pumped! B

Crack propagation had my attention. I was planning on digging a pit to help check the stability but found the effort useless because it was all rock hard. A couple of clues that helped me decide to go: 1. No signs of avalanche activity, nothing had slid 2. Falling rime left several debris tracks down the slope which indicated some level of stability. 3. I was able to spot and follow a line that skirted above cracks and the slope proper, weaving in and out of rime covered rocks. 4. The snow pack was an Ice pack. I spent as little time as possible where the slope did not instill the most confidence. Was there risk take? A little, always a little.

Trip: Mt Hood - SouthSide Date: 11/15/2008 Trip Report: Driving to work Friday morning, the anticipation was killing me. After a week of monsoon, the skies were clear and I knew Hood would be glowing with new snow up high. Just as I rounded the corner, there it was in the rearview, coated with goodness, at least the top 2,500ft. Focusing back on the road my mind began to wander just as the huge moon caught my eye. Could it be, Could it actually be? Yes, yes it can. With my climbing amigo enjoying new fatherhood, I tied my boots solo style , at 3:30, pumped at the prospects of a long walk under the moon. I was surprised to find myself totally alone. I can not remember having such great conditions, on a weekend, on the Southside with no one else out to play. If you were thinking about it, and didn’t, thanks! You all know the story up to triangle moraine. The only notable comment is, I had to strap on crampons just above palmer. Melt from the day before was slick, real slick. Standing on the hogsback at 6:30, the decision was the pearly gates, or the old chute. The OC looked good and with the limited amount of snow, was not sure about the gates all by myself. I have never seen the old chute so steep. It was a kick in the pants. The snow was rock hard and made for great front pointing. I know what you are thinking, but it’s the truth. It is steep right now. The top of the chute had two 15ft ice ledges, both had sweet little chutes through them and several big steps. Way more interesting than I dared to hope for. Having the summit to myself was a treat. I waved down to Brian in Hood River and started back down. I had a 5mil cord with me and decided to use it to get down the steps at the top on the chute. I dug a trench around a big-ol ice chunk and body rapped while down climbing to the chute proper. I ended up front-point down climbing all the way to the bergschrund, that’s how steep she was today. My old man is a lifty at T-line. I stopped by the top of the mile to say hi and bum a ride down. With a warm breeze blowing up the hill and a smile on my face. I kicked back and enjoyed the chair ride down to the lodge. Heck yes, Home by 10:30 with coffie still on, and hugs and kisses from my kidos, life is good.

Looking into a GPS unit, anyone have any helpfull hints? Thanks B

Trip: Mt Rainier - Kautz Glacier Date: 7/16/2008 Trip Report: Brian and I left Paradise about 7:00pm on Monday the 13th. We hit the trail towards glacier vista and found a bivy site on a lateral moraine of the lower Nisqually near Pebble Creek. We crossed the Nisqually and the lower Wilson uneventfully to gain the turtle snowfield. The snow was soft, no crampons needed. The slog up the Turtle was hot. With plenty of water in hand, my pack would have been much lighter if I had known there was so much water available. (plenty of H2O all the way to Camp Hazard) Above the Turtle, we veered west and found a fixed line set up for a shot rappel to gain the Kautz. Determined to check out Camp Hazard, we skirted on the west side of Wapowety Cleaver keeping a close eye and ear on the seracs of the Kautz ice cliff. They were making some noise and we knew we were not in the best spot. Some chossy 4th class scrambling led us up to Hazard. I was surprised to see so little in the way of wind-breaks but in hindsight, I understand why. We found a sweet spot and built a nice break with all the available rocks. Just as our hard work was about to be enjoyed with some food and a nap, a big old serac was telling us it was about to go. I pulled out my camera, flipped it to video and hit record just as the it let go. HOLEY SHIT! That was one of the most impressive things I have had the privilege to witness. Brian yelled “ROCK” J and we stood in awe and watched. Once the adrenaline was out of our systems, we took a good close look at the mother-load of ice hanging over us and we packed up and headed down. We found a great bunker about 50 meters from the rappel and settled in for one of the best bivy night sleeps I have had. With a 2:00am start, we were crossing the ice chunder under the light of a very impressive moon. A couple of hundred meters up the kautz, we lost the ski poles for our second tools. Travel was fairly quick and negotiating the crevasses was doable. The snow came to an end and I found myself on a 60ft pitch of steep glacier ice. You know the kind, you hit it with your axe and hear the sketchy sound of compressed ice pop of into dinner plates to rain down on your partner. I got a screw in near the top of the nasty pitch while Brian and I simul climbed until I could get a decent anchor in to belay him up. (thinking back on it, I would have like a couple more screws in that pitch) Negotiating the glacier above the Ice Chute was reasonable. I was very happy the freezing level was low. There were a couple of time our axes would plunge to the head and reveal the nasty darkness below. We climbed west of the route and reached point success at 8:00am. Another hour of easy travel led us to Columbia Crest for a couple of photos and memories of a great accent. We followed the great wand high-way down to Muir sweating balls and in culture shock with the crowds. There were some guides kicking it at their hut blasting “Two Joints” by Sublime on the radio. Just what I would want to hear coming from the guys I have paid top dollar to drag me up the “BIG DOG”. But that is all I will say about that. It was a great climb! I have some pics to post if someone would be kind enough to help out. I did get the Ice Avalanche posted on you tube “Kautz Ice Cliff” check it out. Cheers, Ben

oooops Check out the video on youtube, "kautz ice cliff"

After building a rock wind-screen at camp hazard, we heard this serac moaning. The video does not do justice to what we saw. Looking up at the Kautz Ice Cliff, we moved camp! The Kautz was an amazing climb! Kautz Ice Cliff