benb

Pit results from this morning. CT M18 D 35cm Q1+ CT M19 D 115cm Q1+ two additional layers were below that about 10cm thick, the last of which was at pre 7 day storm cycle 2nd pit dug CT M16 D 115 Q1+ Sketch Balls elevation 5000 time 0630hrs North aspect Slope is protected from direct wind It was all fists. 135cm of new snow over very rounded out and sintered base. (I found a sketchy bond on a layer about 10 to 15cm above the dirt two weeks ago) natural release slabs spoted this am I would only ski where controll is taking place. Climbing without stability tests would be silly.

Note the two climbers just entering the NF gully mid frame in the 4th picture.

Trip: Mt Hood - Cooper Spur Date: 2/3/2011 Trip Report: I got out for some great alpine fun this week. My adventure started on Wednesday. On my way home from work, I took a right at the cooper spur junction and headed up to the Tilly Jane Trail Head. I was on the trail at 6pm looking forward to eating some dinner in the A frame. I was happy to find a fire cranking and a big pot of water on the stove. Two alpine enthusiasts were resting for their climb of the North Face Gully. I was as quiet as I could as I made some food and enjoyed the fire. With plans to bivy at Tie In Rock, I was back on the trail with a full belly at 900. I found a nice little nook to sleep in at the Rock. After a quick frozen turd scouting mission, (none were found) I crawled into bag. It was a spectacular night. As I lay in my bag, I could see the Mountain faintly lit by the stars. It looked as if Orion was standing on cooper spur with his spear raised up over the summit. Bad Ass! I slept soooooo good, I did not get out of my bad until 6:30. By 7:00, I was suited up for action and walking up the spur. Right where the spur ridge fades away into the freaking huge snice slope, I looked over and saw my new friends just entering the north face gully. It was sweet to have company. I wished them luck and climbed on up. The weather was deteriorating as I entered the first rock band. It quickly came to the point where I could not see any features up above me. I was satisfied with being able to see the route below so I continued up. At about 10,700, just below what I believe is called the chimney, I could not see up or down. My next step was down. Down climbing cooper spur is an experience. I was super pumped that as climbed down just past the rock bands, the weather cleared up below me. I was not looking forward to walking back to Tilly Jane in a white out. At almost the exact place where I saw my friends on the way up, I saw them over on the Newton Clark Glacier heading back to Tilly Jane. Once again, I was happy to have company. The wind on the ridge of the spur was INTENSE. I actually had to self arrest at one point. It was wicked. I guess it was a steady 40 with gusts to 50+. I had to walk crouched down with tools in the snow. It took forever to get past Tie In Rock where I could finally move far enough away from the ridge line to not get blasted. At 12:30 I took off my crampons for the tromp down to the A frame. I grabbed some water and hit the trial. By 3:00 I had a mug of beer in one hand and a slice of pizza in the other. Man I love Mt Hood Brewing Company! AHHHHHHHH PS I got a picture of my two friends just entering the lower NF gully. One of the guys, (from Bend) gave me his e-mail so I could send it to him. Well I lost it. So if you read this, and know two rad alpinists, at least one residing in Bend, who like to do sick NF gully to Wy East Traverses in the winter with zero weather window, please PM me so I can send it to them. Cheers Ben SOME WIND Gear Notes: I took a heavy pack with lots of stuff. Approach Notes: The trail to the Tilly Jane A-Frame would not be worth skiing right now.

I can only find opinions of folks who fall into the camp of the no probe just dig theory. All the published resources at my disposal clearly say to probe. On the other hand I have seen plenty of text books that recommend processes that I have never seen or used in practice. Seems like if one text publishes it they all follow suit. Probing back in the day with my old ortovox M1 was for sure needed. There is no doubt that generation of transceivers led to modern rescue techniques, and statistics including probing practices. On the other hand, probing should only take a few seconds, and would give one a target for digging, I can for sure see the benefit of that. That said, I have seen first aid training and CPR practices change half a dozen times over the years. They have changed to make the process simpler to remember and eliminate human error in stressful emergency situations. I did get a kick out of the fact that the Pieps I-Probe uses the transceivers signal for its functionality over a typical probe. My wariness of probes may be due to the fact that from the beginning of time, they have been used to kill things not rescue them. It must be progress. Thank you for all the food for thought. Ben

Having taught manufacturing technology, woodworking, and tool use for 10 years, and coaching ski racing, I have seen many people totally flub up “pretty simple” tasks. Even simple tasks need continual practice to achieve proficiency. Then you throw in an accident with adrenaline and fear, I think I like a transceiver guiding someone within .2 m of my core. Say you probe a boot; you are now 6 feet from saving someone. Or a backpack that is not attached, or tree debris, or any other variable that could be in avy debris. You can’t tell me there are not variables that could lead to false or missed probe strikes/ wasted time

Iain. Thank you for that link. http://straightchuter.com/2010/12/to-probe-or-not-to-probe/ One factor in my thought process on probes use has to do with the way carbon probes function. When I’ve seen them in practice, they bend like noodles. It might work as a backup tent pole, but not precise location of someone buried 6 feet deep. The probe I have is a burly aluminum tube. It does go straitish into the snow. It will at least make it to the trail head, and if the group wishes, Ill pack it along. My poles also rig up as a short carbon probe. IMO probing in a real life situation would take most people a lot more practice to be proficient at then using a modern transceiver. Probing at a beacon park is not the same as probing in avy debris. Practicing the real thing would be tough to set up. Unless I am with avy pros, I would prefer my companions to start to dig. That said, all of this would only happen if piss poor decisions were made previously.

I have never not dug right to a burried transiever in practice. That said, I do appreciate the advice and will practice with the probe more often. They for sure have value in certain situations.

Should I probe down hill also as to not put weight on the victim? I guess depending on the size of group I am with, and how low the lowest transiever reading, other members of my group can probe while I dig. That seems ok righ???? I know I can dig a very big hole in the time it takes someone to break out the probe and locate something. That said, I have not dug or probed much in avy debris.

During a recent hut trip, I brought up a question concerning something I was told in an avy 1 course. I was taught as I recall, to not probe for a victim. Find the lowest reading on my transceiver and begin digging. This makes perfect sense to me. The only thing that is going to save the buried is getting them air by moving snow. Others in the group thought you should find your lowest reading, probe to try to find the victim and then begin moving snow. Seems like an added step, with the possibility of running someone through. So dig to find alive people, probe to find dead people????? Thought?

Anyone out there with a pair of Dynafit Race, Dynafit Race Auto's, or Plum Tech Bindings and a camera? I would love to get a hold of some pictures of one of these bare-bone bindings. I am interested how the heel functions and is assembled. Thanks!

so funny.

PMR takes the snow cat during recreational climbs?!? I needed a good laugh!!!!

Funny thread! "I was going to renew my web domain..... then I got high" snow boarders!

Nice work. Looks like you had a great outing.

Smiling after that TR. NICE WORK!

Sending warm thoughts his way. I assume everything possible was done to get aid to this guy?? Stefan should head south!

Damn! There went five minutes I will never get back. WTF

What is a "hasty lower and raise kit"? Way to get after it rescue rangers!

I was wasting time on gear sights and I came across a snow anchor called a “snow Tube”. It looks like an ice axe without a head. I suppose it is used like a picket. Has anyone use one? That tool got me curious about the difference between typical alpine/ski mountaineering gear used here in the PNW and the gear one would see in Europe. If anyone has spent much time in the Alps, I would like to know what the major differences are. Cheers, B

WOW, That is so Cool! I have those same Boots

That says it all... Where's the damn fork?

Dane, Your bashin my hill! Sucky!

I like it Chris I check the conditions on hood daily. That info is easy to find. Timberline's web site has conditions and web-cams going 24-7 NWAC has "hood" specific reports as well. I have registered many times @ timberline to find that no one has done anything with the forms. The "Out Climbing" box over flowing as well as the "returned safely" box. The forest circus only keeps track of climbers during the "climbing season" I do think they could do a better job. That said, I do like the fact that I can get out on any route when I feel like it without hassle. Self-reliance is a part of alpinism, a very important part. Working hard to stay safe is a no-brainer. Crampons, rope, helmet, are tools used to increase ones self-reliance. I am all for a personal location device, but at the discretion of the user, not beaurecrats in Salem who DO have much more pressing issues to deal with. I don’t believe MLU's would have saved any lives in the last several accidents on mt hood. When storms roll in, S&R teams do not move. B

MLU's, Cell Phones, GPS, Avy Trancievers, "Freedom of the hills" It is why we go out. Most can not even begin to understand. Godspeed to those who do not come back. B

Trip: Mt. Hood - Ramona Falls Date: 12/10/2009 Trip Report: How many of you have stood their and thought "I wonder if that freezes" I have been patently waiting for this to work our for ever. When I discovered the gate to the trailhead open and there was very little snow down that low, (3,400). It just worked out. I left the parking lot at 12:15 this morning. The hike in was uneventful. There are a bunch of trees over the river so crossing could be as scary as you wished. The trail had only a couple inches of snow in the deepest parts. I woke up to James and Trent WooHooing when they saw the falls frozen over. We got geared up to take a look. I liked the looks of the Right Chute and decided to give it a shot. I placed six screws used a tree anchor and tied off up top on a tree. James followed me up. We were so stoked. We rappelled down Rap Line leaving a top-rope for some more fun. I went up Rap Line on top-rope. James went up Main Line on TR. Trent climbed Rap Line, pulled some gear off the anchor, and we headed home. Such a Sweet Adventure Gear Notes: My pack was heavy!