selkirk

Heres a start. Leavenworth R&D-4 pitch 5.6 The Arch 1-pitch 5.8 Spaghetti Sauce 1-pitch 5.8 Dog Leg Crac 1-pitch 5.8+ Classic Crack 1-pitch 5.8+ Givlers Crack 2-pitch 5.8 or 5.7+ (1 move of 5.8) Tieton: Royal Columns (grades here are stiff, so start easier than you normally would) all are 1 pitch Nimrods Nemesis 5.5 Western Front 5.3 whatever is on climbers left of Wester, 5.5) Double Trouble 5.5 Little Known Wonder 5.5 The two on the left end 5.6, 5.7 Inca Roads stiff 5.9 Jam Exam, Cactus something or other, and a few others here at 5.9 Mushmaker, sweet 5.7 Vantage: also single pitch Seven Virgins and a Mule, 5.7 chimney Pony Keg 5.8 Crossing the Threshold 5.8 Tangled up in Blue, stiff, strenuous 5.9 Air Guitar, soft 10a

Don't Bald Eagles mate for life? And one must wonder if boobies like being boobies?

Since when have mosquitos or preying mantis's ever needed dating advice. fahq: You never need to worry about the second date :

And your asking a bunch of socially inept dirtbag climbers from nerd central USA for advice?

Does anyone ever know anything about dating?

I beliee the correct term is "Psycho Hose Beast". Of course "Psycho" and "Stalker" are nice gender neutral terms.

there just something about ropes and harnesses that seems to bring that out in women

The REI Outlet has DMM Four Cam units on sale for $30 a piece. (A few at the downtown Seattle store as well.) Sweet cams for a heck of a price. Is an especially good deal for the bigger ones (3, 3 1/2, and 4) (4 corresponds to a size 3 Camalot which is $80) I know I love mine!

I suppose you could just ask the climbing partner out on an actual date, post climb. But then again, what the hell do know

not gonna touch that one

Do eagles migrate? I kind of want to be an animal that migrates. I like to travel. Yep, there's a good size population that winters out in Wolf Lodge Bay on Lake Couer D' Alene. They show up around October or November every year. Though my word they're ugly at fishing. Osprey are much for fun to watch, very elegant and smooth. Seems like their talons barely touch the water and they come up with a fish.

a housecat with a nice family. They've freaking got it all! Some one else providing food and shelter and a clean place to take a dump. Mice, birds, gophers, dog, and small children to hunt and tormet. An expectation to sleep for 20 hours per day, sharp things on your feet! That's so the way to go.

mmmmmmm... sushi....mmmmm

Time to avoid my research for a moment As someone who's taught statics I'd say belay directly off the anchor with an auto-locking settup or a munter. If it's a hanging belay you won't really be able to get your weight off the anchor regardless, but with this settup, the magnitude of the tension due to the second isn't multiplied (or for the Munter is only very weakly multiplied) since the tension on the brake strand is small or negligible. I can draw up the FBD's if you'd really like. Of course if your belaying off of a redirect through the powerpoint from a hanging belay my instinct says it doesn't matter. The anchor is initially holding the belayers entire weight, when/if your second falls, their line comes under tension, your pulled up, and in the end it's your weight plus the weight of the second, though your weight is distributed differently (either all on the redirect, or partially on the redirect and partially on however your tied in to the anchor). If your on a ledge or otherwise don't have the belayers weight on the anchor initially, using the redirect will increase the load on the anchor. If this is the case, the least possible load on the anchor if your footing is good is to belay off your harness (part of the load will be supported by your footing), and part by the anchor. Next lowest load is using an autolock or munter, where the anchor only supports the seconds weight. The redirect has the highest load where it will support both the second, and a portion of the belayers weight. However the maximum load on the anchor is probably only 400 lbs? (Remember this isn't a leader fall but an effectively static load being applied by the second) Of course the other option is to place the first piece on the next lead a few feet out and redirect through that. It gives you a nice high redirect to keep the belay clean, and protects the anchor much more effectively than anything else. If the second falls, you both load the high piece, and the anchor unloads as your weight equalizes the seconds. In addition as your swinging leads, if the your partner takes a fall shortly out from the anchor you've protected against a factor 2 directly onto the anchor. It is a little more awkward if your using an auto-lock settup though. Of course i'm ignoring the dynamic aspect of the system, since that would actually involve real math, and is much more appropriate to a leader fall unway, unless you second has some serious penalty slack. I never quite understood why people get so worked up about redirects. The maximum load the redirect could possibly have (assuming there isn't a ton of slack out) when a follower falls is maybe 400 or 500lbs if your both fat, which is almost negligible unless your pro really sucks. (for reference this is roughly 2Kn). The real threat is a leader fall or a fall onto a personal anchor directly onto the power point. High factor fall's, even short ones are where the real loads are at.

Zoomies kick ass!! Also, the instant Espresso powder is surprisingly good ("Medaglia De Oro" I think?)

Tieton on a absolutely beautiful Saturday in the sun with a bit of a breeze, followed by beer and brats by the river !! Even managed to get Orange Sunshine, almost clean anyways. And of course more beer and brats for the 4th!

Are there any good bivy sites in the Yakima/Tieton area? Was hoping to go down for some crack climbing happiness, but was debating about crashing down there either Fri night to get and early start or Sat. to climb in the evening. Sportsmans Access area looks full though. Any secret areas nearby?

My parents have a jack russell that used to pin one of our cats and gently gnaw on it's head. Not really biting it, just kind of gently chewing and getting the cats head all slobbery. was very odd. Of course that's the same dog that would go and hide under the bed every time our other cat go an insulin shot. neurotic animals are just so interesting!

Have you seen the trip reports coming out of the standard route on Olympus? Sounds like it's already in really rough condition. Well beyond a low key glacier slog already.

yes but without independant third party verification of said individuals gender status it just isn't official.

Hey, anything that keeps you the hell away from it A new study found Idaho residents are the fattest Americans by state average. 60% overweight and 44% obese. Hey, anything that keeps you the hell away from it

one your familiar with?

Quit your goddamn whining and climb something you lame ass punter. No one else seems to be having issues so WTF is wrong with you?

Hey, anything that keeps you the hell away from it